Search results

Thanks! Great pictures. How many do you have in your 10G?

Yes, I think Naughts is correct. I went back and read your original post and I see that your tank is uncycled. Transferring water does nothing to cycle your tank. You need to do daily large water changes for a few weeks at least probably.

I love Harlequin Rasbora but don't have any at the moment. How many do you have in what size tank? I love the idea of them shimmering in the daylight, but do you get algae with that setup? Any pictures?

Have you tested your tap water? It's strange to me that your ammonia stayed high after a 50% water change. I had a similar problem and discovered that my tap water had high levels of ammonia. I switched to RO water and solved my problem.

In my experience, ammonia above zero is often the start of problems for betta fish. You mentioned 0.15 reading? My API has 0.25 as the lowest reading? Is that what you mean? If so, that could be the source of the problem. I wouldn't feed him bloodworms, go with a healthy, fresh pellet. Get...

Looks healthy to me. Doesn't look like ich.

Favorite: Sitting in front of my tank when things are going well. Planning and setting up a new tank. Least favorite: Cleaning out filters. The effect on my wallet. Convincing my Wife I don't have MTS; I just want one more tank.

I would change somewhere between 50-75 percent personally.

Off topic, but what fish are those in your profile pic? Beautiful.

Sounds like it never cycled. I would keep a daily water change going until it finishes cycling. Try to keep testing as much as possible for ammonia and nitrites to keep tabs on it.

Those levels can harm your fish for sure. I would do daily water changes until it cycles, personally. Did the tank just never cycle? Those seem like high levels, even at this stage.

By stable parameters, do you mean zero ammonia, nitrite, and low nitrate? Seems like a water quality issue, but it's hard to say what the issue could be otherwise.

Maybe plant something like jungle valisneria in the back left and put something like dwarf saggitarria in the front. I feel like it could use a few more plants. Maybe even a nice piece of driftwood.

I've been happy with the RO Buddy. It's made a big difference for me because my tap water was terrible and was killing my fish. RO Buddy solved my problem. Pretty simple and not too expensive. My only complaint is that it's slow and seems to waste a lot of water, but maybe that's normal.

Sometimes it can just happen and there isn't much you can do about it if your water is pristine. Water changes and some cleaning out of the filter in tank water can't hurt though. The testing kits don't pick up everything that matters.

I have had good experiences with the Aquarium Co Op quarantine trio meds. I managed to save some fish that way in a similar emergency situation.

It's hard to say. Usually fin rot is a water quality issue, but it appears your water is ok. I assume the temperature is normal and he has no tank mates? Sometimes it just happens and there's not much you can do about it. Do you have a full tank shot? Are you using the API testing kit or...

Have you tested your water? Is Ammonia at zero?

It could be a lot for that tank, especially with the six panda corys. Do the guppies get along with the betta? I would avoid mixing those, but if it worked well for you in a previous tank I suppose it could be ok.

A cucumber slice. They love them.

Snail populations also grow from overfeeding. I found that when I bought an assassin snail and cut down the feeding to minimal, my pest snail problem was almost entirely solved. You can also remove them manually or with a snail trap.

My bettas love java ferns. Dwarf sagittaria is a good plant too. Anubias are great.

Two weeks is better than nothing and will probably be ok in my opinion as long as you're keeping up with water changes until then. If ammonia is high, the fins will get infected, causing fin rot.

5 gallons is good and so is a weekly (partial) water change. Do you have a filter? I would buy the API Testing kit and test the parameters, especially ammonia.

Have you tested your water parameters, especially ammonia? How big is the tank? Poor water quality or a small tank can stress the fish, leading to fin-biting or other health problems.

I've been using the Aquarium Co Op fertilizer and I've had great results in plant growth and in reducing algae for what it's worth.

Got it. From what I can tell I think you're in the clear then.

I would scrub then boil, then soak them in fresh water for several days. Then test the water for a range of parameters (KH, GH, PH) to see if it's ok before putting it in your aquarium.

Aren't nitrates usually above zero in a fully cycled tank though? Please correct me if I'm mistaken.

Personally, I would keep your favorite and donate the other two to the local fish store. Take the one home with you on the five hour drive (he should be fine). Just bring him in his aquarium and make sure it doesn't fall over and that the temperature in your car is stable. Then you can care...

Yes, I think more plants are always better when combating algae. It just gets tricky because as your plants change, so does the ideal nutrient/light balance. It's largely trial and error in my experience.

You could try adding some frogbit to soak up nutrients and it would naturally dim the lighting as it covers the water surface. That helped me in one of my tanks. Some nerites and a small army of shrimp can be a good clean up crew too.

It could be the lighting then. Do you have the old light still to test if algae improves if you switch it back?

I would just caution that if you do a deep clean, be careful to do it in a way that does not kill all your beneficial bacteria. Did you cycle your tank before adding fish? That could be contributing to the issue if it wasn't fully cycled. I also think you have a lot of fish in there; that...

My understanding is that usually algae outbreaks are caused by an imbalance in nutrients and lighting based on what your plants are using. Usually you need to reduce one or the other. But sometimes you need to increase one or the other. Any time you have excess of either lighting or nutrients...

For what it's worth, I tried those options and my ammonia levels stayed around 0.25 or 05.ppm which ended up killing some of my fish over time. I had to switch to 100 percent RO and remineralize it. I think that's the best option based on my experience. Any sustained ammonia levels above zero...

That happened to me. The only solution I encountered was to by an RO Buddy off Amazon (Around 60-70 USD I think) and I use RO water and remineralize it. You can get RO water from your LFS store, but that ends up being more expensive in time and money. Buying my own RO system solved my ammonia...

I think a 20 gallon is good, but I think for a betta, a 20 gallon long would be better than a 20 gallon high. They like to spend more time at the surface and in a 20G long, the plants will reach closer to the surface if you have them. I had a betta in a 20G high and he was happy, but when he...

You could do another schooling fish like rasbora or tetras.

I have kuhli loaches with my celestial pearl danios and they get along really well.