New to the forum

777james777 said:

@Wills @Essjay @jaylach

Thanks again for the help and from everyone.
I have watched a couple of YouTube videos now and I think I have got my head around how the test kits works. The colour chart seems very handy!
I’m starting to understand what’s harmful to the fish and the reasons why.

I fee more confident than I did a hour ago! Just a few things

- Could you please explain the 3ppm ammonia.
(What it is / why it’s got to be that amount and is it a solution that’s added to the tank) if you could send me a link for the correct one on Amazon id be really greatful as there is ALL KINDS on there.

- The tetra safe start - what is this exactly and what does it do

Sorry if I’m asking you to repeat

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3ppm is comparative to the level of ammonia your fish will produce through their poop and other bodily functions so by producing this with chemicals you get the same bacterial growth that you need when you have fish in the tank.

This is the ammonia I used when I last did a fishless cycle

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Knock-Out-...&qid=1690406298&sprefix=ammoni,aps,157&sr=8-1

It does not state ingredients on the site but as long as its the same one that I got should just be pure ammonia.

Tetra Safe Start is a bottled bacteria and elements that will help start the bacteria colony in your filters - like Essjay said though its just an aid rather than a solution. The overall cycle will just take time.

Wills

Welcome aboard matey! Loving all these questions, we're a good bunch around here and will help you through the cycling process step by step, keep those questions coming!

The pure ammonia you buy from Homebase is what you'll be adding into tank. The Master Kit has little bottles of chemicals which are added to test tubes containing your tank water which will then react and change colour. You then match the colour against the chart. Do not add these test kit chemicals to your tank!

When you first add the ammonia, you will need to start testing the tank water after a couple of days and then everyday or so until your tank is cycled. You will notice the ammonia reading will be high to begin with and as that first colony of beneficial bacteria starts to grow, the reading will decrease. This is when you add a bit more ammonia to the tank so that those bacteria have a food source to continue multiplying. After a while you will notice that ammonia readings will start decreasing even after adding more and your nitrite readings will then start to peak. This indicates the second beneficial bacteria colony has started to grow. Keep feeding with your Homebase ammonia. Eventually you will notice that ammonia will read 0, nitrite will be decreasing and nitrate will start to peak. Your tank has cycled when ammonia and nitrite reads 0 and your nitrate is going up.

This is when you would do your first water change before being ready to add your first few fish. We can help you through all of that when you get there

Make sure too that your water is treated with dechlorinater like Tapsafe, API tap water conditioner or Prime etc

Looking forward to watching you progress!

777james777 said:

Is this the correct kit?

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Yes, the kit you showed is correct.

777james777 said:

It’s actually crazy how in-depth this is, I don’t understand how so many people kids included keep tropical fish

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Oh, don't worry about the how in-depth all this is. When we start talking about water parameters and cycling it seems intimidating but it is really not hard to properly set up a home for your future new friends.

The most important thing is to not try to hurry things... be patient. Also, after the tank is cycled, don't try to change the water conditions to match the fish you want. Find fish you want that matches the water. This will save you a lot of effort and potential heartache. I mean you would not likely get a Chihuahua dog with the intent of having it live mostly outside in really cold conditions. Treat and choose your fish with the same thought in mind.

With your willingness to try to understand what we have said and listen I have no doubt that you will have great success.

Welcome to the forum, as you can see this the place to learn about keeping an aquarium.

Some excellent advice and much appreciated, I will get all the above ordered today from Amazon.

How long will it take (approx) for my 150 watt heater to warm up my 160 litre tank?

Iv read a day or so… obviously I don’t want to turn it on 4 weeks before putting my fish in if it only takes a few days

You can add warm water to the tank to get it near the temperature needed by the fish you want to keep. If you have a combi boiler you can mix hot and cold tap water. If you have a cylinder in the airing cupboard and a header tank in the attic, you can't use hot tap water so you need to boil kettlesful of water.

Aquarium heaters are usually poorly calibrated; in other words they don't usually heat to the exact number on the dial. Some heat it to lower than the dial setting, others heat it to warmer. To get the right temp, you need a thermometer that goes in the water - that is, not one of those strips that stick on the outside as they are affected by the air temp. Then turn the heater setting till the water stays at the temp you want, whatever that happens to be on the dial. Make a note of that setting because you need it warmer for cycling as the bacteria grow faster in the high 20's C while fish need it at or just below 25C so you know what setting to turn it back down to before getting fish.

Essjay said:

You can add warm water to the tank to get it near the temperature needed by the fish you want to keep. If you have a combi boiler you can mix hot and cold tap water. If you have a cylinder in the airing cupboard and a header tank in the attic, you can't use hot tap water so you need to boil kettlesful of water.

Aquarium heaters are usually poorly calibrated; in other words they don't usually heat to the exact number on the dial. Some heat it to lower than the dial setting, others heat it to warmer. To get the right temp, you need a thermometer that goes in the water - that is, not one of those strips that stick on the outside as they are affected by the air temp. Then turn the heater setting till the water stays at the temp you want, whatever that happens to be on the dial. Make a note of that setting because you need it warmer for cycling as the bacteria grow faster in the high 20's C while fish need it at or just below 25C so you know what setting to turn it back down to before getting fish.

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Currently, I have a glass thermometer which is submerged fully in the tank at the front (away from the heater) I plan on having my heater horizontal across the back middle and almost bottom of the tank with an air stone strip underneath it so the bubbles create movement for the warm water. I was thinking a few kettle fulls of boiling water would get things going and then turn the heater on.

So with my testing kit coming tomorrow from amazon, its probably best i get a few kettles in tonight and get the heater going so it reaches high 20's ready for me starting the cycle at the weekend perhaps?

I would just put the heater on now and let it do its thing, it won't take as long as you think to reach temperature. Plus, it will give you a day or so to play around and find out what your heater is actually putting out compared to your thermometer

CaptainBarnicles said:

I would just put the heater on now and let it do its thing, it won't take as long as you think to reach temperature. Plus, it will give you a day or so to play around and find out what your heater is actually putting out compared to your thermometer

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I stuck one kettle full in the tank and put the heater on 2 hours ago and it’s already gone up a couple of degrees

I have entered the measurements on my tank into the below presumably I need to check the % of immonium in my solution when it arrives ?
As it may be different to the chart

The chart is set for a 9.5% solution of ammonia. If the bottle gives a concentration and it's 9.5% use that 5.05 ml. But if it's a different concentration, change the % box to what the bottle says.

You may find it easier to dose the ammonia with a syringe, especially when it comes to the snack dose which is one third the starting dose. Amazon/eBay sell them, as do pharmacies - if you use a pharmacy ask for a babies' medicine dosing syringe. I got the 3rd degree when I asked for just a syringe.


Caution - do not sniff the bottle of ammonia!!!!

Essjay said:

Caution - do not sniff the bottle of ammonia!!!!

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LOL! That WILL clear your sinuses!

Also make sure to keep ammonia away from chlorine bleach. If they mix the resulting gas is very toxic. Never store both together. If they mix the resulting gas can easily be fatal.

Essjay said:

The chart is set for a 9.5% solution of ammonia. If the bottle gives a concentration and it's 9.5% use that 5.05 ml. But if it's a different concentration, change the % box to what the bottle says.

You may find it easier to dose the ammonia with a syringe, especially when it comes to the snack dose which is one third the starting dose. Amazon/eBay sell them, as do pharmacies - if you use a pharmacy ask for a babies' medicine dosing syringe. I got the 3rd degree when I asked for just a syringe.


Caution - do not sniff the bottle of ammonia!!!!

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Just double check the bottle that I have ordered an it says 9.5%

So I’m guessing that when it comes to me adding the ammonia I will be using my syringe to put the 5.05ml into 160 litres of water

That seems a very small amount in comparison to the amount of water!? I’m sure obviously this will be correct. My ammonia bottle is 500ml so I’m using literally 1% each time I use it correct?

777james777 said:

Just double check the bottle that I have ordered an it says 9.5%

So I’m guessing that when it comes to me adding the ammonia I will be using my syringe to put the 5.05ml into 160 litres of water

That seems a very small amount in comparison to the amount of water!? I’m sure obviously this will be correct. My ammonia bottle is 500ml so I’m using literally 1% each time I use it correct?

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Ya, you will have a lot of left overs but that is normal.

@Essjay

Iv just tested the ph levels

Picture 1 : tank water ph test
Picture 2 : tank water high ph test
Picture 3 : tap water ph test
Picture 4 : tap water high ph test

(Tank has been filled up with water for 5 days)