What tank should I get?

Hi,

I've been thinking about getting a tank but I'm not sure which is the best quality. The tanks I've considered so far are the Aqua One Ecostyle, Lifestyle, Aquastyle, and the Fluval Flex 123l. Which one would be best in terms of quality and price? Thanks! I've included the links to the tanks below.

I'm not sure as I don't use those branded ones, all of mine are custom-made by us. But I will say, the bigger the better. it'll be easier to work with and more forgiving too, the more the water the less severe the fluctuations... Also I would recommend to get it heavily planted

Hello Bana. 30 gallons is probably the smallest you should get if you're just getting started. Acrylic is nice. It's light, but can easily be scratched. Glass is heavier, but harder to scratch. Research the two and weigh the good and not so good points. But, don't go with a tank smaller than 30 gallons.

10 Tanks (Now 11)

You could try a 40 gallon breeder? Great size and good for a variety of different fish. Fluval is a nice brand. What fish are you looking to keep?

Agree that first issue is the intended fish, as not all tanks are suitable for all fish, not just volume here but dimensions. Longer is generally better so for example a 20g long at 30 inches/75cm length is more beneficial than a basic or high 20g at 24 inches/60 cm. Also agree with the member who said go for the largest you can have, and for the reasons given.

The tanks that you have listed links to run from about 30 gallons to 60 gallons. I'm not sure how things are in your area, but there is always someone near my area (north of Los Angeles) looking to sell a 55 or 60 gallon for between $50 and $200 depending on condition, accessories, and so on. It you know what you need or have a friend who can help, buying used might be a good place to start. You might even get lucky and pick up a 75 gallon with sump and components for $20--I did this once--or have someone give you a tank.

Jacob the tank keeper said:

I'm not sure as I don't use those branded ones, all of mine are custom-made by us. But I will say, the bigger the better. it'll be easier to work with and more forgiving too, the more the water the less severe the fluctuations... Also I would recommend to get it heavily planted

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Ok thanks - what plants would you recommend for a beginner and what substrate? Thanks!

10 Tanks said:

Hello Bana. 30 gallons is probably the smallest you should get if you're just getting started. Acrylic is nice. It's light, but can easily be scratched. Glass is heavier, but harder to scratch. Research the two and weigh the good and not so good points. But, don't go with a tank smaller than 30 gallons.

10 Tanks (Now 11)

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Thanks for the advice!

Lillypad101 said:

You could try a 40 gallon breeder? Great size and good for a variety of different fish. Fluval is a nice brand. What fish are you looking to keep?

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I am looking into keeping a few guppies and algae eaters, but haven't decided on what other fish to put in there as well.

speakerman3 said:

The tanks that you have listed links to run from about 30 gallons to 60 gallons. I'm not sure how things are in your area, but there is always someone near my area (north of Los Angeles) looking to sell a 55 or 60 gallon for between $50 and $200 depending on condition, accessories, and so on. It you know what you need or have a friend who can help, buying used might be a good place to start. You might even get lucky and pick up a 75 gallon with sump and components for $20--I did this once--or have someone give you a tank.

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I live in New Zealand and don't really know anybody who has fish but I will look into stuff like Trademe (second-hand website). Thanks!

Byron said:

Agree that first issue is the intended fish, as not all tanks are suitable for all fish, not just volume here but dimensions. Longer is generally better so for example a 20g long at 30 inches/75cm length is more beneficial than a basic or high 20g at 24 inches/60 cm. Also agree with the member who said go for the largest you can have, and for the reasons given.

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Thanks! Also the Ar980 is quite old, would you recommend it over the Fluval which is newer but pricier?

Banafish said:

Thanks! Also the Ar980 is quite old, would you recommend it over the Fluval which is newer but pricier?

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My personal view is that I would never acquire a used tank. I have downsized my own fishroom a few times for moving or health reasons and most everyone who took a tank mentioned they would reseal it. I'm no good as this kind of work, so I'd rather pay for a new one which is under guarantee (usually). As the tank ages the silicone is more likely to fail, especially with any bangs to the tank. Moving any aquarium risks breaking the seal, the heavier it is.

Byron said:

My personal view is that I would never acquire a used tank. I have downsized my own fishroom a few times for moving or health reasons and most everyone who took a tank mentioned they would reseal it. I'm no good as this kind of work, so I'd rather pay for a new one which is under guarantee (usually). As the tank ages the silicone is more likely to fail, especially with any bangs to the tank. Moving any aquarium risks breaking the seal, the heavier it is.

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I don't mean it is a used tank, just that it was made 9 years ago, while the Fluval Flex was made 1-2 years ago.

Banafish said:

Ok thanks - what plants would you recommend for a beginner and what substrate? Thanks!

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Depends on you really, but I would use a dirted substrate capped with dirt, around 2-4 inches of dirt, and 1-2 inches of cap. Make sure the dirt is pure dirt, and the cap can be gravel, sand, and anything that will cover up the dirt without being dirty itself. As for plants, I would say go crazy with low-tech plants, go heavily planted. My system is heavily inspired by Walstad, also for the fish, since you want guppies, might as well get other livebearers too as they have the most bioload which is very beneficial to the plants (Platies, Mollies, and Swords.) you can also throw in some compatible tetras and what not.
(this doesn't apply to most red plants as the reds need very little nitrates to be red)

For beginners always go for greens and once you get the hang of it, you can go slowly go higher tech.

My main plants would be -
Jungle Val, Dwarf Sag, Anubias, Java ferns, Bucephalandras, Bacopa, Cabomba (Green), Corymbosa Stricta, Ludwigia Repens, Pearlweed, and whatever fast growing low tech you have. Those ephipytes (Anubias, Java fern, Buce, etc) are only the cherries on top, I would recommend more fast-growing plants than slow growers.

Here's a tank of mine with that system:

Orrrrr you can just use aquasoil instead, Ista or ADA i would recommend, but they usually lose their nutrients after around half a year, so you would have to reset (or you would have to dose ferts and root tabs A LOT)

Dirt subs will get richer and more nutritious as it ages as it turns the organics into nutrients

I agree with Byron. You need to know what fish you want to keep before deciding on an aquarium, then get a tank that suits the fish. You also need to find out what the water supply is like.

What is the GH (general hardness), KH (carbonate hardness) and pH of your water supply?
This information can usually be obtained from your water supply company's website (Water Analysis Report) or by telephoning them. If they can't help you, take a glass full of tap water to the local pet shop and get them to test it for you. Write the results down (in numbers) when they do the tests. And ask them what the results are in (eg: ppm, dGH, or something else).

Depending on what the GH of your water is, will determine what fish you should keep.

Angelfish, discus, most tetras, most barbs, Bettas, gouramis, rasbora, Corydoras and small species of suckermouth catfish all occur in soft water (GH below 150ppm) and a pH below 7.0.

Livebearers (guppies, platies, swordtails, mollies), rainbowfish and goldfish occur in medium hard water with a GH around 200-250ppm and a pH above 7.0.

If you have very hard water (GH above 300ppm) then look at African Rift Lake cichlids, or use distilled or reverse osmosis water to reduce the GH and keep fishes from softer water.

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You mention algae eaters. There is a fish commonly sold as a Chinese algae eater and these are not suitable for aquariums due to their adult size and unpleasant temperament. Avoid Chinese Algae Eaters.

There are small algae eaters like bristlenose catfish, Peckoltias and Otocinclus catfish. These should not go into new tanks because there is insufficient food for them. Wait until the tank has been running a couple of months and then add algae eaters if you need them. Algae can be controlled by live plants, regular water changes, and light. Some aquatic snails can be useful and will pick up uneaten food and eat some algae and these can go into new tanks that have been cycled. Cycling is where the filter is allowed to develop beneficial bacteria that help keep the water clean and usually takes around 4-6 weeks.

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Post number 8 at the following link has info on aquarium plants.