not really, you'll be able to tell if it's above 0ppm, but after that, it gets a little difficult to discern between one color and another if they're close. basically, you might read 0.25 when it's actually closer to 0.5. it's not a problem for a beginner trying to cycle a tank.
On the long cycle post this is the second option as it says it’s a powder which can be hard to mix…? Apparently ammonium hydroxide is preferred?Let me know if you can’t access itDR. TIM'S AQUATICS Ammonium Chloride Solution for Cycling Aquariums, 2-oz bottle - Chewy.com
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i'm not going to explain the entire process here, but this forum has a thread on cycling aquariums with charts and guides. you'll usually always have some nitrates in tap water, and i don't think that any liquid tests kit read such low levels as 3ppm. you won't have increased nitrates immediately after adding the ammonia, and having increased nitrates in your tank water doesn't mean that the tank is cycled either, it's only an indicator that the process is going well.
In the long post it doesn’t suggest a water change until the end when levels are 0
Keep the heater on during cycling process, it will speed it up since the bacteria can multiply fasterI suppose I’m still wondering should the heater be on during the cycle process or off as it isn’t mentioned on that long post on link on post #2. Other than that I suppose I’ll get the ammonia and give it a go but I can see myself going wrong, I didn’t want it to be a stressful fiddly experience
This is the dr tim’s ammonia chloride cycling that me and my sister follow together. It has worked well for us.
Do you just drop from the bottle then? The long post suggested mixing was involved
Yeah I typically just drop the drops into the water, wait 15 minutes, and test.
Once you get a test kit you should test your tap water for pH, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate to see what those are before cycling.
I’d have no idea what the results meant though.
