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Possible very sick Betta Help!

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Hello all
My Betta, Blue, has come out of his castle and was swimming around. He still looks swollen around his head and fins and isn't as active but he is swimming. I did a 75% water change and put the aqua safe in the water and I kept him in the tank. Also, I made sure the temp was right! I have the bubbles going as well. I will do a 75% water change every day for 2 weeks and see how he acts and looks. Thanks everybody!
 
Well, my Betta is alive but today I noticed a LOT of in rot, and he isn't eating. I did a 75% water change yesterday and will keep doing them for 2 weeks. Is there anything I can do now to stop the fin rot? Do I switch him to a smaller container with just his heater until I get this aquarium balanced? He is losing all his fins?
 

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Thanks Barry! I started doing 75% water changes last night will do it every night for 2 weeks! I will get some aquarium salt as soon as the store opens, I hope this helps him! I was using Betta Fix and it really messed him up, he was swollen under his head, discolored and fins coming off! I was told this product isn't good for Betta fish so I stopped using! Thank you so much!
 
gia311 said:
Thanks Barry! I started doing 75% water changes last night will do it every night for 2 weeks! I will get some aquarium salt as soon as the store opens, I hope this helps him! I was using Betta Fix and it really messed him up, he was swollen under his head, discolored and fins coming off! I was told this product isn't good for Betta fish so I stopped using! Thank you so much!
Click to expand...
Mela fix, betta fix can suffocate betta as it will float on water and betta will breath it in, also have you try to cycle your tank?


Cycle a tank. There is a way to get rid of Ammonia (NH3) and Nitrite (NO2-) completely by cycle a tank, cycle a tank is when you put Ammonia and Nitrite down to 0 by using Nitrosomonas bacteria to "eat" Ammonia and turn them to Nitrite then another bacteria name Nitrobacter and Nitrospira will "eat" Nitrite and turn them to Nitrate (NO3-) you can speed up the process by buying the “bacteria bottle”.
 
Barry Tetra said:
Mela fix, betta fix can suffocate betta as it will float on water and betta will breath it in, also have you try to cycle your tank?


Cycle a tank. There is a way to get rid of Ammonia (NH3) and Nitrite (NO2-) completely by cycle a tank, cycle a tank is when you put Ammonia and Nitrite down to 0 by using Nitrosomonas bacteria to "eat" Ammonia and turn them to Nitrite then another bacteria name Nitrobacter and Nitrospira will "eat" Nitrite and turn them to Nitrate (NO3-) you can speed up the process by buying the “bacteria bottle”.
Click to expand...
I never cycled, was given bad info by the pet store. I will do this once I get my ammonia testing kit (i just have a standard one that tests, chlorine, ph, nitrite, nitrate, hard water, alkaline etc. but no ammonia. I will look for bacteria bottle b/c I want to accelerate this process, he does look very sick! I am doing 75% water changes and will vacuum his substrate. I have gravel and I am thinking of removing it and replacing it with live plants which I have already ordered! Thank you very much
 
Another member mentioned me in an earlier post so I have read through this thread. Others are helping you with the "problem" so I will just add a couple of general comments to reinforce some of what has been said.

Never use pH adjustment chemicals if fish are in the tank. The pH is tied to the GH, KH and CO2 level, and targeting just the pH means you are trying to affect one factor of several that are closely related. This usually does not work long-term, and fluctuating pH is far more dangerous to any fish than a stable pH even if it is perhaps outside the recommended pH for the species. The other problem is that any substance added to the water is getting inside the fish, in the bloodstream and internal organs; fish continually take in water via osmosis through every cell. These chemical additives are always adding additional stress, which further weakens the fish.

This brings me to the medications. Here too, once the issue has been identified as accurately as one can, then select the most effective treatment. Again, the wrong medication can make things much worse because of the above point. Significant water changes are almost always a good first step, and sometimes may be all that is needed.
 
Byron said:
Another member mentioned me in an earlier post so I have read through this thread. Others are helping you with the "problem" so I will just add a couple of general comments to reinforce some of what has been said.

Never use pH adjustment chemicals if fish are in the tank. The pH is tied to the GH, KH and CO2 level, and targeting just the pH means you are trying to affect one factor of several that are closely related. This usually does not work long-term, and fluctuating pH is far more dangerous to any fish than a stable pH even if it is perhaps outside the recommended pH for the species. The other problem is that any substance added to the water is getting inside the fish, in the bloodstream and internal organs; fish continually take in water via osmosis through every cell. These chemical additives are always adding additional stress, which further weakens the fish.

This brings me to the medications. Here too, once the issue has been identified as accurately as one can, then select the most effective treatment. Again, the wrong medication can make things much worse because of the above point. Significant water changes are almost always a good first step, and sometimes may be all that is needed.
Click to expand...
I gathered that water changes are the best "holistic" first solution. I did buy some aquarium salsalt and will be doing 75% water changes daily. Thank you for the additional info! I also purchased an ammonia tester, I have 1 ppm.
 
With an ammonia level of 1 ppm you definitely need to do water changes. The ammonia needs to be zero.

And I agree with Byron - stop adding the pH chemical. The fewer chemicals that are added to a tank the better. With a sick fish, daily water changes (which will help the fish and get ammonia down) and salt are the first things to try. Once ammonia stays ate zero - and nitrite as well - and the fish has recovered all you need to add is a water conditioner (dechlorinator)
 
gia311 said:
I gathered that water changes are the best "holistic" first solution. I did buy some aquarium salsalt and will be doing 75% water changes daily. Thank you for the additional info! I also purchased an ammonia tester, I have 1 ppm.
Click to expand...
So sorry, typo, my ammonia is 0!
 
essjay said:
With an ammonia level of 1 ppm you definitely need to do water changes. The ammonia needs to be zero.

And I agree with Byron - stop adding the pH chemical. The fewer chemicals that are added to a tank the better. With a sick fish, daily water changes (which will help the fish and get ammonia down) and salt are the first things to try. Once ammonia stays ate zero - and nitrite as well - and the fish has recovered all you need to add is a water conditioner (dechlorinator)
Click to expand...
My nitrite and nitrate and ammonia is 0. I am starting the Aquarium salt. Thank you
 
Question about Aquarium salt and water changes. If I put 2 tablespoons (6 teaspoons) of salt (I have a 10 gallon tank) dissolved then when I change the water tonight and change out 75% I am assuming 25% of the salt I put in will still be in the aquarium. Do I then add another 75% of salt which would be 4.5 teaspoons or 1.5 tablespoons of salt after I change the water? Thank you
 
Yes, that's right. Dissolve the 1.5 tablespoons in the new water than add it to the tank.
 
I would try and add some live plants. Fast growing floating plants like hornwort, water sprite, moneywort, and anacharis are good at absorbing ammonia and will also help with your water quality. They are easy to care for because they absorb what they need from the water. You may also want to look at Tetra SafeStart Plus to help jumpstart your cycle but make sure you read the instruction on this site about cycling your tank first.
 
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