Hi, Fisharecool,
I'm sorry the forum's been so dead and you've received so little response, but I did check your previous post and found no answer to my comment there.
It's very frightening having a sick fish, especially when you're unsure what to do.
Looking at your answer I can see a number of problems/causes.
To quote:
... 1.5 gallon
change water every 2 to 3 weeks and he was fien up until now
remove all gravel, wash with only water same temp
what kind of live plant should i get
im not sure if i can get larger.
i dont have a heater, im in south florida (its hot enough down here ...
First off, he's in a very small container, and toxins will rapidly build up.
If you have soft water, ammonium, which is not toxic, will form, rather than highly toxic ammonia - you'll have one or the other wherever fish are, as they respire this continually, as well as that produced by wastes breaking down.
I suspect that if you had hard water, your fish would have died some time ago.
The addition of Melafix and salt is good, especially under the circumstances, as salt, even at a rate of one spoon per 20 gallons or less, prevents nitrite uptake - nitrite is very toxic to fish, and is also a byproduct of waste production.
I would suggest small daily waterchanges until he's better, and, if there are no plants in his container, doing partial water changes every second day once he is.
If you could eventually obtain a 4 or 5 gallon tank, with a filter and plants, it would be much easier for you, as once the tank was cycled, weekly waterchanges would be fine.
But he cannot get better with toxins in his water, and frequent waterchanges are imperative under the circumstances.
If you read my answer in the previous post, you know now that gravel must not be overcleaned in any cycled tank, as it destroys beneficial bacteria which processes ammonia and nitrites.
Even a small, unfiltered tank can be cycled to the extent of surfaces available to be colonized, and the gravel typically provides this large-surfaced area.
There are several ways of reducing toxic wastes in tank water, and ideally, one employs all three to ensure the safety and health of one's fish.
Bacterial cycling, plant uptake of ammonia/ammonium, (the latter converting to ammonia when the general hardness/ph of the water increases) and water changes, which are ordinarily conducted regularly, generally on a weekly basis in larger, cycled tanks, or more frequently under different circumstances, as when small tanks or high stocking levels are involved.
http/ezinearticles.com/?Nitrogen-Cycle-A...s&id=328078
... Ammonia (NH4) is assimilated in more than one way. Plants (such as Hornwort) and algae can assimilate ammonia and ammonium directly for the biosynthesis. The remaining bulk of decomposed byproducts are utilized by bacteria in a process called nitrification. Ammonia does not last long in a healthy aquarium environment, fortunately. Nitrifying bacteria such as Nitrosomonas quickly break down ammonia into less toxic Nitrite (NO2). During this process, specific species of nitrifying bacteria strip the ammonium of its hydrogen molecules as an energy source. Oxygen molecules are then affixed to the stripped nitrogen, forming the oxide nitrite (NO2).
Another group of bacteria (Nitrobacter ) utilize the enzyme nitrite oxidase that is then responsible for converting nitrite into nitrate (NO3). This nitrate can either be used by plants as a nutrient source, or can be further broken down into nitrogen gas (N2) through the activity of anaerobic bacteria such as Pseudomonas . ...
As there isn't much room in your tank, and as the light levels may very likely be low, selecting suitable plants becomes a little more restricted than they may otherwise be.
You'll hear many people generally recommend things like the low-light standards Java moss and Java Fern, Egeria Densa - a great ammonia sucker, and often commonly available.
However, as it's a small tank, if it could be placed where it'll get window light - not direct sunlight but daylight - the possibilities expand.
I recently bought a lovely little plant sold as 'Mint Charlie' - very pretty and supposed to suck up ammonia at an incredible rate.
It’s still in quarantine and I don't know how big it gets, but it was intended for a 10 gallon I'm redoing for a betta, and I've been told it won't get too big.
Fast-growing stem plants generally available in most LFSs would probably serve the purpose here, as long as they are suited to your light and other tank conditions.
Cardamine Lyrata is a graceful favorite of mine, and is reliant on nutrients in the water column, including ammonia/ammonium, and bettas love to swim through the maze created by its leaves.
Dwarf Sag. might be an idea, and different varieties of Hygro are great and tend to grow like weeds, but may be too tall for such a small tank, and require periodic pruning so as not to crowd your betta right out of his tank.
If you can get - and have room for - several different kinds of plants, it would be ideal, as then if one kind didn't do well, the others could make up for it.
If I had to keep a betta in such a small tank, I'd pack it with plants he could swim through and around as they helped to purify his water.
And Dwarf Four-Leaf Clover is low to med-range lighting, and makes a lovely foreground plant, although I obviously wouldn't rely on that alone for water processing.
And a small bottle of Flourish fertilizer, with just a smidge added, can make all the difference in the world, especially to the specifically water column feeding plants you need.
As far as the heater goes, if the temperature in your area of Florida never falls below mid 70's, your betta will probably be fine - temperature variation isn't good, but most tropical plants won't grow well or at all in too-cool water, and bettas become stressed when chilled and susceptible to all kinds of nasties, so those who know how much difference warmth makes to bettas tend to place much emphasis on this, as well as the importance of stability in temps where poss.
I hope this helps, and your little guy will be OK, and you'll have good news to share as he improves, because those of us actually around the forum in the holiday season are interested, and we do care.
Happy New Year, by the way.