Sick Betta Emergency

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Fisharecool:)

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hey
my betta won't eat, and will just lie aroud the bottom of his tank. i feed him pellets (hikari betta bio gold) he won't even eat bloodworms. hell bite the pellet then spit it out. he used to constanlty get his head stuck in litle places so i bought new gravel. he looks like he has little spots of scales missing and little i dont know cuts but they are not red. earlier today i notices he has like a black dot on his back fin. he looks like he has fin rot. he wont even open up his fins anymore. they are all scraggly and such. what should i do. i don't know what medicine to get him. i wanted to try the pea but he won't eat. what do i do? i need a reply IMEDIATELY. no is the onlly time i can go to the pet store. no water stats sorry.
here is him b4:
indy1.jpg
now:
indy_sick.jpg
his fins were soo beautiful, now just scraggles. :-( he never opens his fins up anymore. i dont want him to die. Please any help :-(

as to my other post:
link: http://www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=267929

1.5 gallon
change water every 2 to 3 weeks and he was fien up until now
remove all gravel, wash with only water same temp
what kind of live plant should i get
im not sure if i can get larger.
i dont have a heater, im in south florida (its hot enough down here :cool:
 
well, since no one bothered to reply, ( i waited for two hourss and not a one) i went ahead and went out and bought melafix. i added 1/2 teapoon of salt. if anyone will answer me now, was this the right thing to do? i guess its better to read about betta stories than HELP with a sick betta :angry: :sad: :no: .
right now he is sitting at the bottom, breathing a little better. i hope he makes it.
 
Hun, yesterday being Sunday and this being the Christmas holidays for many means that there is less people online.
My first thing to you would be to get a water test kit (liquid based) asap as poor water stats are very often the cause behind sick fish, and without a test kit you have no way of knowing.
Also try posting in the Tropical Fish Emergencies forum - http://www.fishforums.net/index.php?showforum=67 , maybe there will be someone in there who can help.
Include how suddenly his appearance changed, etc.
Try to include as much info as possible as per this post - http://www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=2330

I think the melafix is a good idea, can't do any harm if you follow the instructions.
Good Luck
 
Oh the poor thing :( He looks in bad condition. Sometimes the time difference between countries means some threads dont get answered as soon as possible. You did the right thing by getting Melafix. Keep up with the water changes and dosing. How do you regulate the tank temp? What foods do you feed him? Ive found that giving mine betta flakes one day then a ground up combo the next day of my cichlid food works well for them (as it has all sorts of goodies in it).
 
thanks for anwering. i cant get a test kit
i feed (or used to now that he won't eat) bloodworms once a week and hikari betta bio gol evry day.
how often should i do the water changes?
ill repost in emergencies.
so it was a good idea to get melafix? i researched for 3 hours and i just thought it would help.
since i put it in its weird. hes suddenly swimming around and i got him to eat a pellet :D !
about the flake food, cna i give him tropical flake? hes never been used ot eating flake even at petco he ate pellets.
should i use anything else besides melafix? i also added 1/2 teaspoon of aquarium salt.
"yesterday being sunday" i just realized the whole thing about dif time zones. my apologies.
 
Hi, Fisharecool,
I'm sorry the forum's been so dead and you've received so little response, but I did check your previous post and found no answer to my comment there.
It's very frightening having a sick fish, especially when you're unsure what to do.

Looking at your answer I can see a number of problems/causes.
To quote:

... 1.5 gallon
change water every 2 to 3 weeks and he was fien up until now
remove all gravel, wash with only water same temp
what kind of live plant should i get
im not sure if i can get larger.
i dont have a heater, im in south florida (its hot enough down here ...

First off, he's in a very small container, and toxins will rapidly build up.
If you have soft water, ammonium, which is not toxic, will form, rather than highly toxic ammonia - you'll have one or the other wherever fish are, as they respire this continually, as well as that produced by wastes breaking down.
I suspect that if you had hard water, your fish would have died some time ago.
The addition of Melafix and salt is good, especially under the circumstances, as salt, even at a rate of one spoon per 20 gallons or less, prevents nitrite uptake - nitrite is very toxic to fish, and is also a byproduct of waste production.
I would suggest small daily waterchanges until he's better, and, if there are no plants in his container, doing partial water changes every second day once he is.
If you could eventually obtain a 4 or 5 gallon tank, with a filter and plants, it would be much easier for you, as once the tank was cycled, weekly waterchanges would be fine.

But he cannot get better with toxins in his water, and frequent waterchanges are imperative under the circumstances.

If you read my answer in the previous post, you know now that gravel must not be overcleaned in any cycled tank, as it destroys beneficial bacteria which processes ammonia and nitrites.
Even a small, unfiltered tank can be cycled to the extent of surfaces available to be colonized, and the gravel typically provides this large-surfaced area.

There are several ways of reducing toxic wastes in tank water, and ideally, one employs all three to ensure the safety and health of one's fish.
Bacterial cycling, plant uptake of ammonia/ammonium, (the latter converting to ammonia when the general hardness/ph of the water increases) and water changes, which are ordinarily conducted regularly, generally on a weekly basis in larger, cycled tanks, or more frequently under different circumstances, as when small tanks or high stocking levels are involved.


http://ezinearticles.com/?Nitrogen-Cycle-A...s&id=328078

... Ammonia (NH4) is assimilated in more than one way. Plants (such as Hornwort) and algae can assimilate ammonia and ammonium directly for the biosynthesis. The remaining bulk of decomposed byproducts are utilized by bacteria in a process called nitrification. Ammonia does not last long in a healthy aquarium environment, fortunately. Nitrifying bacteria such as Nitrosomonas quickly break down ammonia into less toxic Nitrite (NO2). During this process, specific species of nitrifying bacteria strip the ammonium of its hydrogen molecules as an energy source. Oxygen molecules are then affixed to the stripped nitrogen, forming the oxide nitrite (NO2).
Another group of bacteria (Nitrobacter ) utilize the enzyme nitrite oxidase that is then responsible for converting nitrite into nitrate (NO3). This nitrate can either be used by plants as a nutrient source, or can be further broken down into nitrogen gas (N2) through the activity of anaerobic bacteria such as Pseudomonas . ...

As there isn't much room in your tank, and as the light levels may very likely be low, selecting suitable plants becomes a little more restricted than they may otherwise be.
You'll hear many people generally recommend things like the low-light standards Java moss and Java Fern, Egeria Densa - a great ammonia sucker, and often commonly available.
However, as it's a small tank, if it could be placed where it'll get window light - not direct sunlight but daylight - the possibilities expand.
I recently bought a lovely little plant sold as 'Mint Charlie' - very pretty and supposed to suck up ammonia at an incredible rate.
It’s still in quarantine and I don't know how big it gets, but it was intended for a 10 gallon I'm redoing for a betta, and I've been told it won't get too big.
Fast-growing stem plants generally available in most LFSs would probably serve the purpose here, as long as they are suited to your light and other tank conditions.
Cardamine Lyrata is a graceful favorite of mine, and is reliant on nutrients in the water column, including ammonia/ammonium, and bettas love to swim through the maze created by its leaves.
Dwarf Sag. might be an idea, and different varieties of Hygro are great and tend to grow like weeds, but may be too tall for such a small tank, and require periodic pruning so as not to crowd your betta right out of his tank.
If you can get - and have room for - several different kinds of plants, it would be ideal, as then if one kind didn't do well, the others could make up for it.
If I had to keep a betta in such a small tank, I'd pack it with plants he could swim through and around as they helped to purify his water.
And Dwarf Four-Leaf Clover is low to med-range lighting, and makes a lovely foreground plant, although I obviously wouldn't rely on that alone for water processing.
And a small bottle of Flourish fertilizer, with just a smidge added, can make all the difference in the world, especially to the specifically water column feeding plants you need.

As far as the heater goes, if the temperature in your area of Florida never falls below mid 70's, your betta will probably be fine - temperature variation isn't good, but most tropical plants won't grow well or at all in too-cool water, and bettas become stressed when chilled and susceptible to all kinds of nasties, so those who know how much difference warmth makes to bettas tend to place much emphasis on this, as well as the importance of stability in temps where poss.

I hope this helps, and your little guy will be OK, and you'll have good news to share as he improves, because those of us actually around the forum in the holiday season are interested, and we do care.
Happy New Year, by the way.
 
gentley use a cup to scoop him out, remove all gravel from tank (gravel displaces water and you need to maximise water volume in your little tank) and do a 100% water change, then add about 5 drops melifix to water and reacclimate betta and then put him in tank.

he is having fin problems because of the water quality, change the water at the very least 2 times a week and this should help greatly, if you dont he will most likely die.
 
Syphoniera,
your reply is very helpful!
1. about your answer, i put it on this post, you got it "1.5 gallon change water" sorry if it confused you. i got my threads mixed up :blush:
2. he has a plastic plant in his tank. your're suggesting a live one? i will try to get one or two of the ones you suggested.
3. i got your post about the gravel. i think when i switched gravels (head stuck problem), i may have lost some beneficial bactieria.
4. ill do changes every day little bits and 25% whole once a week
5. the light in my tank is very low. i normally have a window open but lately its been closed. i put on the lamp for about a hour or so turn off another hour. il try to get those plants you suggeted. are they expensive? if i cant find them, will those little ones that they have in the betta section do? i might not be able to get them as i will have to pay for them not mom and yeah. like i said ill try
thank you sooo much! ill give an update every day.
 
oh i forgot to add
i have a 2.5 gallon tank with a tiny air pump/filter which is currently holding platy fry. when i can find homes for these fry, i may be able to use that tank for him. but that may be a month or two.
if i can get the plants, should i wait till i can put him in the larger tank to add plants or now?
should i put the palnts in now after he's better or before he's better?
 
Adding the live plants can't be any harm whether you do it now or later... if you can get some ammonia suckers, the sooner the better as I agree that this problem is likely to be poor water quality related in such a small tank with infrequent water changes.
 
Adding the live plants can't be any harm whether you do it now or later... if you can get some ammonia suckers, the sooner the better as I agree that this problem is likely to be poor water quality related in such a small tank with infrequent water changes.
ok thanks! now i just have to get them...
 
If you can get live plants, I'd add them right away - they'll help improve his water.
A little Melafix over the short term shouldn't damage them, although salt can be a major problem for some plants.
As I suspect the problem may be fixed by good water conditions, and as this is now being addressed, the salt may be unneeded and even counterproductive, so I'd personally quit adding that, and stick with the daily water changes and Melafix.
If a problem does show with the plants, they could always be temporarily relocated - if they're only planted in gravel, a mess is not an issue, and with a little care, roots will, hopefully, not be damaged.

Something like Pennywort, if you can find any, can either float on the surface (as long as betta doesn't get blocked from surface breathing to drown) or be planted - and in both cases will suck up ammonia like crazy.
Something like that would be easy to keep and move with him, and could also be planted once he's moved into the 2.5.
(Although it would be very helpful to your fry to have live plants as well, not only for the water conditioning and shelter, but for the tiny organisms they'll eat off of the plants, making them healthier and generally faster-growing as well.)
And apparently nitrifying bacteria doesn't prosper on plastic - although it does on rough-surfaced natural objects such as gravel, rock/slate and plants.
2.5 gallons is about 100 times better (actually more) than 1.5, and I'm relieved to hear that you are now doing regular water changes.
I don't know if you have a syphon, but the best way to do water changes is to syphon just over the gravel wherever exposed so as to suck up any loose debris.
This gets tricky in recently planted tanks, lol, so caution is advised...
And under the circs, a 15 -20% daily water change might be better, at least for the first bit and until you have plants in, and they've had a few days to recover from shock and begin to grow, using ammonia (bless 'em) as fuel.
With plants actively growing, twice-weekly water changes become more feasable.

Pet stores do seem to charge a lot for plants out here, in Winnipeg, Canada, but I don't know about Florida - I have an impression the commoner sorts are more reasonably priced than here.
You might try asking if there's anyone on the TFF forum in your locale who could save you some suitable clippings when they trim, and then you're getting variety as well, although you might wind up having to pay a small amount and postage as well, if they're not close enough.
Is there a local fish club you could join?
Apart from everything else, it's a great way to find out about deals and free stuff - I can empathize with the no money thing - sucks, don't it?
I recently attended several local fish forum sponsor sales, with a bit of money I'd got for my birthday and Christmas, and got nice plants as low as 40% off.
You could try looking for sales at nearby stores, although at any good ones, the nicer plants tend to disappear pretty early on.
But if you go to an independently owned rather than chain store, you're more likely to wind getting actual help looking for low-light plants, the problem being, of course, that there's a lot of bad info easily available.

Apparently, many types of plants often do best with a photo period, even if not continuous, of about 10-12 hours of light, depending, although a number of people's tanks have apparently done well with less.
The little light bulb that I suspect came with your tiny tank is unlikely to be of much (if any) actual use for plant-growing - typically, they seem to be only a few watts of incandescent light - the watt-per-gallon rule doesn't and can't apply to very small tanks, and - !NOT AN EXPERT! - you (I do, anyway) need at least 20 watts, or much more if the light source is very far above the water.
That 10 gallon I'm redoing sits on my bedroom bureau in front of the window (no direct sunlight - and in the winter, sometimes very little suitable light) and has a canopy light on in the evenings.
I have another 10 gallon (for which I have no canopy) on a board across a couple of sturdy small bedside-type tables, with a 100 watt reading light right next to it and on through the evenings - the lamp's high enough above the tank to keep Water Wisteria growing relatively upright - actually, Water Wisteria (one hardy variety of the Hygro mentioned earlier) would rapidly outgrow a 1.5 gallon (although could be pinched back - and propates from cuttings, so one plant could eventually, as it grows and cuttings are taken, fill both small tanks and your 10 gallon, as well) but that also could be planted in the 1.5, and be moved with the betta into the 2.5, giving another option for ammonia-sucking, low-light plants that might be easy to find.
If you could get the tank in front of, or, even if further away, in the path of light from, a window, and have a reading lamp with a regular CF or whatever bulb on in the evening, I know that's kept various lower-light plants alive and healthy for me.
If you have no money and problems finding something clear to cover the tank without blocking off all of the light from above, you might, for example, sort through any old, larger framed pictures you might have and not much care for.
I've used several of the glass covers from such as these to cover small tanks and allow light through, as bettas are notorious jumpers - although I think the heavier finnage on many probably precludes this.
Of course it helps if you're older and have lots of junk lying around...
Hope this makes sense - keep writing bits and running off and coming back...
 
still pushing for those plants
hes improving! the fungus like thing is starting to deterioate! hes alot more active and he tries to eat bloodworms now. when i run out of betta water, (which will be tomorrow) ill Have to got to the lfs and buy more water so i can try to get a plant or two.

about the fry, your saying a live plant will benefit them?. i had a plastic one before, but so many git stuck and yea. im afraid to interoduce anything now because any little change affects them. (i diddn't feed the normal amount one of the three times i feed them and they began to get all lethargic and just lie around) anything bothers them
ill keep up with updates

ny the way, i dont have a light on the tank. ( im mean attached to it.) i use window light almost all day ( the sun doesnt stop shining for awhile) when the sun doesnt shine. i have a lamp on thats abotu 4 inches from the tank. thats pretty mush his light.
 
What is betta water? :S I'm intrigued! I am in the UK so it is probably something we don't get here.

Don't worry too much about live plants for now, I would say just keep up with the water changes and move him to the larger tank ASAP. Do you know anyone who could take the platy fry now? maybe when you move him to the larger tank, if that has a light you can then get some plants. i know you are in Florida, but a heater is good - it will only switch on once the water temp drops, say overnight. Bettas like a constant temp so a heater will be a useful addition if you can get one :) Good luck!
 
Betta water is a water they sell at pretty much any lfs down here. it has all the treatments which makes the water the perfect kind for bettas. its super oxygenated and free of ANY contaminants. its about $3.49 down here. uk probs doesnt get it.

UPDATE
3rd day of melafix.
More active than ever.
Tail fin starting to regenerate!
i got him to eat a pellet! and a peice aboout ... that big of a pea. refused anymore of the pea. oh well
i have found some plants that i can purchase in a petco. i just need to verify the kinds.

about the fry, i will be a ble to put like 3 or 4 im our ten gallon an 5 will go to a freind. the other 4 not sure. prob can temporarily house on ten gallon.
 

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