Small Journal On The Topless Transition

The last week has been a flurry of activity around my tank as I prepare to make some changes. Two major changes are going to occur simultaneously in the tank; lighting and filtration. Firstly I will be changing my 2x 36W PC hood for a 150W metal halide. As one tank inhabitant is a little on the skittish side and has previously attempted suicide with a dramatic leap from the tank to plummet 3 ft landing on the carpet; I believe some kind of lid is necessary. I found a store where I can purchase eggcrate and have successfully crafted a tight-fitting lid from it. The remainder will be used in the filtration;explained later. For the transition I will need to gradually decrease the distance the halide is from the water surface. I propose a small wooden frame from which the halide can be suspended until the desired height is reached. Ultimately I want the unit on legs much like the sunpod or the arcadia luminaires. The unit is on order and I have recently reported using an extra 36 watt 50:50 PC tube to help acclimatise the corals to the extra light. I have already notice a difference in my corals; they seem more vibrant. Any ideas on starting height from which the halide should be positioned at. Also 8 hour photoperiod is what I was thinking, is this ok? The second change is the addition of a sump on to my 24g. The design I am going to use is something I saw on reefvideos.com by a guy who customises tanks. He calls it a duplex sump system where the refugium is split into two layers by eggcrate. The top layer has macroalgae which is exposed to faster flow while the bottom layer is a benthic zone. The inlet can accomodate a protein skimmer if wanted. I was thinking something like the V2 nano or possibly the V2 400 which may be a little OTT but none-the-less enjoyable !!! The outlet is a 1700 Newjet which has the option of decreasing flow to 600gph if needed. The sump will be fashioned from a 60x30x30cm (2x1x1ft) juwel aquarium, which I was given by a friend. I have given it a good scrub with vinegar, then thoroughly raise with tap water and allowed to drip dry. The seals were in good condition but I resealed with silicone to be absolutely sure. Tomorrow I will mark out where the baffles will go. I was thinking a 6" outlet section with a foot for the refugium/benthic zone and a 6" inlet. Final decision tomorrow though. The only thing I have not covered is the overflow box which is really important but also posing the biggest problem. This I will have to fashion myself out of some acrylic. I was looking at the aqua medic design and looking to modify that somehow. Alternatively I have seen some design on ebay which may be candidate designs to copy/modify. I have attached a few pictures of my activities , not that exciting but none-the-less progress.

Anyway more when I have news

Regards

Kool seems good to me

Cool indeed

IMO, an eight hour photo period would be on the low side, wouldn't it? If you think of where these corals come they are on 12 or 13 hours naturally. Yes they can adapt to different conditions if tank grown, but IMO from what I've read they would be better receiving the amount of light they are designed receive, right? I'm going to run mine on 12 hours.

ooooo I want a 150w halide for my 29g....will be a long while though. How big's your tank (dimensions).

KJ, I think you misunderstand my plan. The halide is going to increase the PAR throughout the tank by an unknown amount. I don't want to burn the corals by hitting them with a unusually high amount of light. I was going to start at 8 hours to kind of match the PC tubes and then increase up to a longer photoperiod over several weeks. At the moment I have a 2x 36W 50:50 PC sitting about 6 inches away from my highest placed coral ( a Euphyllia Divisa expanding to an inch below the water surface). If I then replace this with a 150W halide sitting at the end of the transition 8 inches from the water surface, my corals are not going to like this. They will be spitting out zooxanthallae left, right and center and shrivel up in that so painful way that they do!! They might not but I just want to make sure they don't. My plan is to increase to a possible 12 hours but if you overshoot their requirements that leads to the process of photoinhibition. In the entry above I did enquire as to the starting height of the halide and/or photoperiod but no until you has commented. As Ski gave it a thumbs up I thought that I wasn't that far off the mark.

Please any further comments and suggestion will be taken into account and are very much appreciated.

Kindest regards

The next installment: I inserted the baffles yesterday which was really quite simple. Measured it out so I have a 6" inlet and outlet like I proposed initially and a foot for a refugium/benthic zone. I gave the silicone ~24 hours to bond and begin curing before testing the seals around the baffles. The outlet baffle is sealed tight but the inlet has a tiny hole which leaks ever so slowly. While it isn't a big deal because it is an internal leak I really wanted it to be water tight. I am very pleased that there are no external leaks as I would probably resort to a new tank. I hate hunting and fixing apparent defects but I don't have the funds at the moment to splash out on a new aquarium for a sump. I have found a candidate overflow box on ebay.co.uk; the clear tide 40. It apparently drains up to a maximum of 2000 liters/hour where as the return pump does a maximum (No pressure head) of 1700 liters/hour. What are peoples feelings on that unit? I think it is a little on the large side but has the potential to be streamlined a little.
A few pictures of the sump in progress with leak . I will sort that soon, real soon.

Regards

Crazy fishes said:

KJ, I think you misunderstand my plan. The halide is going to increase the PAR throughout the tank by an unknown amount. I don't want to burn the corals by hitting them with a unusually high amount of light. I was going to start at 8 hours to kind of match the PC tubes and then increase up to a longer photoperiod over several weeks. At the moment I have a 2x 36W 50:50 PC sitting about 6 inches away from my highest placed coral ( a Euphyllia Divisa expanding to an inch below the water surface). If I then replace this with a 150W halide sitting at the end of the transition 8 inches from the water surface, my corals are not going to like this. They will be spitting out zooxanthallae left, right and center and shrivel up in that so painful way that they do!! They might not but I just want to make sure they don't. My plan is to increase to a possible 12 hours but if you overshoot their requirements that leads to the process of photoinhibition. In the entry above I did enquire as to the starting height of the halide and/or photoperiod but no until you has commented. As Ski gave it a thumbs up I thought that I wasn't that far off the mark.

Please any further comments and suggestion will be taken into account and are very much appreciated.

Kindest regards

Click to expand...

ooo I gottcha. I thought you meant keep it at 8 hours over the long haul. Definitely don't want the coral to spit their algae. Uh oh, did I challenge Ski



Good project you have going

Kj

Thanks KJ most kind..

Next installment: I have just tested the repairs on the seals and there are NO leaks !! A water tight sump is really great and last night I went to work on the structural components for the benthic zone. I just had enough eggcrate left over to fashion two top plates and two struts. Ideally I wanted three-four supporting struts at the bottom because it provides a bigger surface on which the tube worms and other 'benthic creatures' can attach, but no big deal two will work. I went to the LFS today for RO and cyclops but also checked out the TMC V2 400 skimmer. It will fit in the inlet of my sump which is another piece of good news but that will be one of the final additions.
Below some pictures of the complete sump with benthic fixtures enjoy!!

Regards

Oh dude you're doing a benthic zone? Sweet! Can't wait to see some pics of this after it's up and running

Next installment with pictures will be tomorrow. Just to let you know went to the 'local plastic shop' ( I did not know there was one until a few days ago) and ordered some acrylic to be bent. I was going to do it with a hot air gun and a piece of wood but the guy in the shop has the proper kit so I thought he could probably do a better job. Besides acrylic is so damn expensive!!! I will make the side plates and little dam bar as well as sticking it together, but more on that tomorrow.

Regards

Well tomorrow is here (two days later ). Anyway been building the overflow box and I must say for my first attempt it is working out quite well ! The evening of the 31st was an annoyance and everything I did went wrong; I cut the damn plastic too small after 'careful' measurement and the other side plate cracked while cutting. The 1st January things changed and it started to work out after a good nights rest and a some mindful meditation (that consisted of trying not to lost my cool with the lump of plastic). After the last three days I have a water tight box with the air hole cut and primed with an airpump valve on the overflow (upside down U bit). the overflow will be inserted into the box later this evening. Fingers cross CF may actually build something that works (fingers crossed)!! I have been looking around for a 1" tank connector and my god are they difficult to find around my area. I did find somewhere where I could order one but when I heard that it was £16.99 I quickly realised try elsewhere. I think I may buy a few from livingsea.com they are about £4 .00 on there. Just attached a few pictures to make it easier to understand what I am talking about.

Regards

Have you leak tested yet?

Looking good!! just a tip that small leak if you ever had your return up off for along time that 1st section will slowley fill up your larst one make sure it wont overflow!!!

The sump works beautifully with no leaks but the overflow is still being constructed; last bit in today and hopefully a trial tomorrow is on the cards. That last divider between the tank connector and the outlet of the overflow is really tricky, I wish I hands the size of a three year old .

Regards

Looks like you have pretty good DIY skills. Fair play. Looks quality