Im new here looking for answers

[Essjay]

You need to be able to test for ammonia and nitrite. Nitrate is less important at the beginning, but useful. Many of us use API 'master' test kits which contains testers for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH. There are also 5 in 1 or 6 in 1 strip testers but these don't include ammonia so testers for that have to be bought separately.

In a tank that was not fully cycled before fish go into the tank, ammonia will show up almost immediately. This burns the fish's skin and gills, and burns to gills make it harder for them to get oxygen from the water. After a few weeks, enough micro-organisms grow to 'eat' this ammonia and they 'poop' nitrite. This also harms the fish as it binds to their blood stopping the blood taking up oxygen - basically it does what carbon monoxide does to us. After a few more weeks, more micro-organisms grow which 'eat' nitrite and 'poop' nitrate, which is less toxic than the other two but has long term effects if it's too high. We should aim to keep nitrate below 20 ppm, and the lower the better.
In an uncycled tank, testing every day for ammonia and nitrite is important so we can do a water change when either read above zero. At first only ammonia will read above zero and it could take a few weeks before nitrite shows up.

 

[Tyler777]

You need to be able to test for ammonia and nitrite. Nitrate is less important at the beginning, but useful. Many of us use API 'master' test kits which contains testers for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH. There are also 5 in 1 or 6 in 1 strip testers but these don't include ammonia so testers for that have to be bought separately.

In a tank that was not fully cycled before fish go into the tank, ammonia will show up almost immediately. This burns the fish's skin and gills, and burns to gills make it harder for them to get oxygen from the water. After a few weeks, enough micro-organisms grow to 'eat' this ammonia and they 'poop' nitrite. This also harms the fish as it binds to their blood stopping the blood taking up oxygen - basically it does what carbon monoxide does to us. After a few more weeks, more micro-organisms grow which 'eat' nitrite and 'poop' nitrate, which is less toxic than the other two but has long term effects if it's too high. We should aim to keep nitrate below 20 ppm, and the lower the better.
In an uncycled tank, testing every day for ammonia and nitrite is important so we can do a water change when either read above zero. At first only ammonia will read above zero and it could take a few weeks before nitrite shows up.

Ok, thanks for ur help n advice

 

[sharkweek178]

Yeah I found out last nite that the water test my wife got is for our pool not for aquariums. That explains why I didn't have tubes n tests for nitrites n nitrates.
I will see if I get a new test kit today.
Bout the fishes after 20 years of not having an aquarium I forgot bout doing a research of compatibility instead of just choosing the pretty ones.
Would it be too late to buy n pour that bottle that has bacteria to help with the cycle?

I'd recommend an API Master Test Kit. I would say most of us use those. They're more accurate than test strips. And more economical. The initial cost is higher but you get a lot more testing out of one.

 

[Tyler777]

Ok, thanks for ur help n advice

Ok, thanks for ur help n advice

Ok I found a test kit in an aquarium box in the basement but it hasn't been used in over a decade so I don't know how reliable this test would be. But here are the results I got

PH .....7.2
HR PH .....7.4
Nitrate ....0
Nitrite ....0
Ammonia....0.50

Good or bad ? Shou

I'd recommend an API Master Test Kit. I would say most of us use those. They're more accurate than test strips. And more economical. The initial cost is higher but you get a lot more testing out of one.

Thanks for the advice. I will look for it. I just found my old test kit in a box in the basement but it hasn't been use in more than a decade. Even when it seemed to work well bcause is so old I'm not sure how reliable the test I took is

 

[Tyler777]

Ok I found a test kit in an aquarium box in the basement but it hasn't been used in over a decade so I don't know how reliable this test would be. But here are the results I got

PH .....7.2
HR PH .....7.4
Nitrate ....0
Nitrite ....0
Ammonia....0.50

Good or bad ? Shou

Thanks for the advice. I will look for it. I just found my old test kit in a box in the basement but it hasn't been use in more than a decade. Even when it seemed to work well bcause is so old I'm not sure how reliable the test I took is

Should I do a water change ?

 

[Tyler777]

Hi. I would start with how to cycle a tank. Also determine if your water source is hard or soft and make your fish selections based on their tolerability of the hardness of your water. Then keep in mind the number of fish you select should be considered in regards to how many gallons your tank holds. The general rule of thumb is 1 inch of biomass to 1 gallon of tank volume. This relationship should take into account rocks, wood,plants and other objects that displace water.

Ok I found a test kit in an aquarium box in the basement but it hasn't been used in over a decade so I don't know how reliable this test would be. But here are the results I got PH .....7.2 HR PH .....7.4 Nitrate ....0 Nitrite ....0 Ammonia....0.50 Good or bad ? Should I do a water change ?

 

[sharkweek178]

Should I do a water change ?

Yes. A large one. If ammonia or nitrites are above 0, or nitrates are above 40 ppm, then a water change is always good way to go. If you're doing a fish in cycle, be prepared to do a water change every day or two.

 

[Tyler777]

Yes. A large one. If ammonia or nitrites are above 0, or nitrates are above 40 ppm, then a water change is always good way to go. If you're doing a fish in cycle, be prepared to do a water change every day or two.

Ok thanks

 

[Essjay]

If the test kit is past the use by date, I wouldn't trust it. Chemicals do go off when exposed to oxygen in the air so if any of the bottles have ever been opened, air will have got in them.

 

[Tyler777]

If the test kit is past the use by date, I wouldn't trust it. Chemicals do go off when exposed to oxygen in the air so if any of the bottles have ever been opened, air will have got in them.

Well the kit was in a plastic container for like 15 years without being open . I used it 15 years ago but not anymore after that. I was surprised still gave me colors to compare to the color cards but I'm still gonna buy another one.
That's all I have cause the test I we using is to test swimming pools not aquariums n doesn't have tests for ammonia nitrite or nitrates
I'm gonna make a water change in a little bit

 

[Lcc86]

I probably wouldn't fully trust a test kit that old but given you're doing a fish in cycle it's good to just do the water changes every couple of days regardless while you get yourself a new one. And the sooner you can return the incompatible fish the better (for them and you), it'll also reduce the bioload in the tank which should be beneficial for your cycle.

 

[Tyler777]

If the test kit is past the use by date, I wouldn't trust it. Chemicals do go off when exposed to oxygen in the air so if any of the bottles have ever been opened, air will have got in them.

Would it be ok to add starter bacteria to help cycling the tank even with fish in it ?

I probably wouldn't fully trust a test kit that old but given you're doing a fish in cycle it's good to just do the water changes every couple of days regardless while you get yourself a new one. And the sooner you can return the incompatible fish the better (for them and you), it'll also reduce the bioload in the tank which should be beneficial for your cycle.

Thank you

 

[Essjay]

A bacterial starter would help, but it's not instant. The two to look for are Dr Tim's One & Only and Tetra Safe Start. (One of those, not both)

 

[Tyler777]

A bacterial starter would help, but it's not instant. The two to look for are Dr Tim's One & Only and Tetra Safe Start. (One of those, not both)

Thank you

 

[Tyler777]

Thank you

Hey guys I just did a test and this is what I got

PH ................................7.0
High Range PH ............7.8
Nitrate ..........................5.0
Nitrite ............................0
Ammonia .......................0.50

Please help me out n advice me what to do. I keep losing fish from left to right here.
I just lost 2 neons ( they keep dying on me ) 2 other neons are missing n I can't even find their bodies
And 1 koi angel is also missing n no body to be found.

Whatever advice bout the water quality n anything else I will do I right away.

Thank you guys