white spot
- Thread starter chrisski
- Start date
The February FOTM Contest Poll is open!
🏆 Click to vote! 🏆
Clown loaches are prone to whitespot, stress can fetch it on, how many gallons is the tank, how many fish and which type, plus what are your water stats in ammonia,nitrite,nitrate,and ph.
Not the writer of this information below.
TREATING FISH SENSITVE TO ICH MEDICINES
(By Spotz)
Many species of fish are sensitive to ich medication. Included in this article is the way to safely treat loaches without side affects. Note: this is a cut & paste job on my part.
Raise the tank temperature to around 86 degrees provided that you have no cold-water species like weather loaches, goldfish, minnows etc. Add areation by dropping in an airstone, or anything that will agitate the surface of the water to increase oxygen supply. The warmer the water gets, the less dissolved oxygen it can hold. Darken the tank to reduce stress. Remove carbon from the filter. Add the medication at 1/2 dose. Treat for 16-18 days. Make sure you do the water-changes indicated on the bottle.
The reason that you must treat for 16-18 days is because the cysts contain the eggs. Sure, they fall off, but then the eggs hatch, and if you've stopped medicating, the fish get reinfected. Also, the ich parasite is only vulnerable to medication for 3 days after it hatches. Say a parasite passes the vulnerable stage just as you pour in the medication. That parasite will finish the life cycle which is definitly longer than two days. It will form a new cyst, and drop off, and you will have more than 300 new parasites ready to seek out a new host.
There is a second way to treat ich. This has been rumored to work. Raise the temp to 86 deg F. Increase areation. Add a small amount of aquarium salt to the tank. Cover the tank with a dark material. Take care not to block all vents. Turn off the lights inside the tank. Try not to disturb the tank for a few days, except to feed and check on progress. Nobody knows why this works. The salt stimulates the mucous layer of the fish making it thicker. At the same time, the salt acts like an antiseptic, preventing secondary infection. The darkness helps calm the fish, strengthening the immune response. The high temperatures stress the ich, as well as increasing metobolic functions, and reducing the lifespan.
Ich medications
1.) Coppersafe 1/2 dose
2.) Quick Cure 1/2 dose
3.) Quinsulex full dose
4.) aquarium salt by Doc Wellfish @ 1 tablespoon per 8 gallons, or 2/3 tablespoon per 5 gallons. Don't crush the salt, or you'll overdose.
Here are some links that explain ich.
http
/www.netpets.com/fish/reference/freshref/ich.html
A note on number 5 on how to treat ich for the link above, disregard the part about using the full dose. Clown loaches as well as most other loaches are more sensitive to medication. Use the Quick Cure at 1/2 dose.
About the carbon included in many filter cartridges. Remove it. It absorbs the medication. You don't really NEED carbon in your filter. Keep the carbon out for the duration of the treatment. You can use it to clear out medication at the end of the treatment.
End of article.
Also, on another note, This was posted on a few forums:
http/aquaweb.pair.com/forums/loach/index.cgi?read=25226
The verdict was that ich goes dormant in tanks, only to rear it's ugly head when a fish's immune system gets compromised.
(Note: permission to copy is not required. I wrote this for the benefit of all aquarists. Feel free to copy.)
Not the writer of this information below.
TREATING FISH SENSITVE TO ICH MEDICINES
(By Spotz)
Many species of fish are sensitive to ich medication. Included in this article is the way to safely treat loaches without side affects. Note: this is a cut & paste job on my part.
Raise the tank temperature to around 86 degrees provided that you have no cold-water species like weather loaches, goldfish, minnows etc. Add areation by dropping in an airstone, or anything that will agitate the surface of the water to increase oxygen supply. The warmer the water gets, the less dissolved oxygen it can hold. Darken the tank to reduce stress. Remove carbon from the filter. Add the medication at 1/2 dose. Treat for 16-18 days. Make sure you do the water-changes indicated on the bottle.
The reason that you must treat for 16-18 days is because the cysts contain the eggs. Sure, they fall off, but then the eggs hatch, and if you've stopped medicating, the fish get reinfected. Also, the ich parasite is only vulnerable to medication for 3 days after it hatches. Say a parasite passes the vulnerable stage just as you pour in the medication. That parasite will finish the life cycle which is definitly longer than two days. It will form a new cyst, and drop off, and you will have more than 300 new parasites ready to seek out a new host.
There is a second way to treat ich. This has been rumored to work. Raise the temp to 86 deg F. Increase areation. Add a small amount of aquarium salt to the tank. Cover the tank with a dark material. Take care not to block all vents. Turn off the lights inside the tank. Try not to disturb the tank for a few days, except to feed and check on progress. Nobody knows why this works. The salt stimulates the mucous layer of the fish making it thicker. At the same time, the salt acts like an antiseptic, preventing secondary infection. The darkness helps calm the fish, strengthening the immune response. The high temperatures stress the ich, as well as increasing metobolic functions, and reducing the lifespan.
Ich medications
1.) Coppersafe 1/2 dose
2.) Quick Cure 1/2 dose
3.) Quinsulex full dose
4.) aquarium salt by Doc Wellfish @ 1 tablespoon per 8 gallons, or 2/3 tablespoon per 5 gallons. Don't crush the salt, or you'll overdose.
Here are some links that explain ich.
http
/www.netpets.com/fish/reference/freshref/ich.html A note on number 5 on how to treat ich for the link above, disregard the part about using the full dose. Clown loaches as well as most other loaches are more sensitive to medication. Use the Quick Cure at 1/2 dose.
About the carbon included in many filter cartridges. Remove it. It absorbs the medication. You don't really NEED carbon in your filter. Keep the carbon out for the duration of the treatment. You can use it to clear out medication at the end of the treatment.
End of article.
Also, on another note, This was posted on a few forums:
http
/aquaweb.pair.com/forums/loach/index.cgi?read=25226 The verdict was that ich goes dormant in tanks, only to rear it's ugly head when a fish's immune system gets compromised.
(Note: permission to copy is not required. I wrote this for the benefit of all aquarists. Feel free to copy.)
Similar threads
Most reactions
-
430 -
361 -
300 -
256 -
247 -
174 -
170 -
168 -
139 -
132 -
131 -
99 -
F
86
-
80 -
68