Which Is The Best Method Of Treating White Spot For Clown Loaches?

totally tropical

Fish Fanatic
Joined
May 22, 2009
Messages
167
Reaction score
0
Location
The Boro
I have 5 clown loaches and at least one of them gets white spot every 2-3 months. I use the high temperature method with a jacuzzi going on! and it always works, the downside being that it either kills my plants or gets them on the brink.

Just wondered whether you feel that using white spot medication (half dose) is the better option as I have never tried this before and do not know how effective it is? Although I am having this hassle with the clowns I never want to get rid as they have so much character and are such a wonderful fish.

Thank you.
 
salt and heat are all you need in any whitespot situation. (temp and dose applicable of course)
 
Prevention is better than cure, are you quarantining new additions for at least four weeks prior to introducing to your tank?

A good treatment to use (@ 50% dose) is Maracide concentrate. I would avoid using salt though, I don't like messing around with the TDS levels. Raising the temp only speeds up the life cycle of ick and on it's own wont rid your tank of White spot.
 
Prevention is better than cure, are you quarantining new additions for at least four weeks prior to introducing to your tank?

A good treatment to use (@ 50% dose) is Maracide concentrate. I would avoid using salt though, I don't like messing around with the TDS levels. Raising the temp only speeds up the life cycle of ick and on it's own wont rid your tank of White spot.

Hi, have had no new additions for some time - I agree with the 'no salt' analogy especially for clown loaches. Will certainly look into your recommendation.

Thank you.
 
i have personally and successfully treated CL with whitespot using only the salt (1/2 dose of course) and heat method.
 
a regular treatment of salt for white spot is 1TBSP/5g as well as bumping your temperature to 85 degrees Fahrenheit. for roughly a 2 week treatment.
along with this, i would also suggest running an air pump or powerhead aimed at the surface to maximize oxygen in your tank. (warmer water depletes dissolved oxygen levels)

you can use aquarium salt, but table salt does the trick just fine. just be sure to thoroughly dissolve the table salt before adding it to the tank.

sorry. figured id post all the information. but to answer your OQ 1/2 dose = 1TBSP salt/10 gal of water
 
a regular treatment of salt for white spot is 1TBSP/5g as well as bumping your temperature to 85 degrees Fahrenheit. for roughly a 2 week treatment.
along with this, i would also suggest running an air pump or powerhead aimed at the surface to maximize oxygen in your tank. (warmer water depletes dissolved oxygen levels)

you can use aquarium salt, but table salt does the trick just fine. just be sure to thoroughly dissolve the table salt before adding it to the tank.

sorry. figured id post all the information. but to answer your OQ 1/2 dose = 1TBSP salt/10 gal of water

Thanks a million :good:

Do you also find that your plants suffer due to the high temperatures and is there anything to combat this other than using a standard white spot treatment minus the high temperature?
 
i guess it really depends on what type of plants you keep. i personally dont get much into the planted tanks, so i may not be the best person to answer that, HOWEVER, i generally keep to an amazon biotope consisting of anubias and such (consistent of the stock list housed in the tank), and they are not harmed at all. 85 degrees is not really "hot" by amazon river standards. even in my tanks that have other plants besides the afforementioned flora, i have never had an issue doe to a 2 week temp treatment regimen.
 
Prevention is better than cure, are you quarantining new additions for at least four weeks prior to introducing to your tank?

A good treatment to use (@ 50% dose) is Maracide concentrate. I would avoid using salt though, I don't like messing around with the TDS levels. Raising the temp only speeds up the life cycle of ick and on it's own wont rid your tank of White spot.

I would disagree, in that a temp rise was all I needed to get rid off white-spot. Incidentally once I bumped up the numbers of Clown Loaches from 4 to 13, never had any problems with white spot since.

Always been recommended salt as the number 1 preference to meds, but always half-doses with Clowns.
 
I am a newbie to fishkeeping, but am presently dealing with white spot on my 2 clown loaches. I noticed the problem too late. They started flashing over a month ago and I just thought they were clowning around. Full blown spots covered their bodies on Monday night. I began treatment Tuesday, raising temperature to 82 (from 76), and adding rock salt, dissolved in a quart of tank water two teaspoons at a time, three hours apart, til the 12 gallon tank had two tablespoons of salt in it, and did a 1/2 dose of Super Ick Cure liquid (1 teaspoon diluted in a quart of tank water). I then started adding Kordon's herbal Ich-Attack - 2 teaspoons every 12 hours. This is a double dose and double the application regimen. My 2 corys and 2 bushynose plecs all seem comfortable and unstressed. But, alas, I lost the smaller clown loach yesterday - a 2-incher, and it wasn't playing dead this time. The 3-incher is struggling, but is active and shows a few less spots, if this is possible as his entire body was covered in white yesterday. I'm thinking with the timing and all, that I am probably dealing with the second bloom of white spot now. The first bloom probably involved the mouth and gills of my poor clown loaches and was never visible. They were trying to tell me how itchy they were with all that rock rubbing and flicking movements! Poor things! I will let you know if the big fella makes it. I will do a second 1/2 dose of Super Ick Cure today, along with a gravel vac and 30% water change, wait 6 hours and begin the Kordon's herbal Ich-Attack once again and repeat as above every 2 days until all spots are gone from the loach, then do 4 treatments more, three days apart to make sure that the tank is clean of those creepy crawlies. When I do the water changes, I will add in the missing salt proportionately to bring it back up to the two tablespoons per 12 gallon level and will let you know how all tank companions do. I am anticipating a minimum 14 days of working with this. Whew!
OK - its Saturday now and this is the update. I did as above on Thursday. The remaining clown lost more spots, but seemed sicker. By Thursday afternoon, he was laying on his side at the back of the tank with only an occasional flick of the tail fin to let me know he was still alive, and he stayed there through Friday afternoon. Worse, his tank mates began showing signs of stress. Nitrite and nitrate levels were rising along with ammonia. On Friday afternoon, I decided to do a gradual 70% water change, making sure the temperature never fluctuated from 82F. I did not add in more salt, but instead did another treatment with the herbal Ich-Attack. Everyone in the tank perked up, including the clown loach and all test results were within safe perameters for nitrite, nitrate, gh, kh, ammonia and ph6.8.
Today, my 3-inch clown loach still lives! He is moving very slowly though. All of his spots are gone now. I did another treatment with the herbal Ich-Attack this morning and added 2 more teaspoons of dissolved rock salt back into the tank, as I think that the Ich might be in the free-swimming stage now and I want to be sure to get all of them. I don't think that I will use any more of the Super Ick Cure. My present plan is to follow through each day with a constant 82F water temp, 30% water changes, adding 2 teaspoons of salt back into the tank every third day, plus twice daily treatments with the Kordon's herbal Ich-Attack. I will update a week from now and let you all know how the tank has fared.
OK - its Saturday again, a week later. My 3 to 4 inch Clown Loach survived and recovered beautifully - completely back to normal by Tuesday of this week. I kept the temperature constant at 82F, and did 25% daily water changes through Friday, then changed out only 1 gallon each day through today. I ended the Kordon's Ich-Attack on Wednesday and restored the carbon filter to the tank. I am using "Cycle" to encourage the tank to cycle, now that the waters are clear of the Super Ick Cure. I am still testing for nitrite and ammonia spikes as I am finding trace nitrite from time to time. I also ended salt additions on Wednesday. No other fishes show any signs of "Ich". I used lots of "Stress Coat" throughout the Ich ordeal. I reduced the temperature in the tank to 80F on "Thursday. On the herbal Ich-Attack - this product does turn the tank water tea-colored (as in black tea- not green). The tea color is finally gone today, but the tank water is still cloudy. I hope this will clear up over the next few days. I had mercy on my clown loach and on Friday, returned him to the store from whence I had bought him a year ago as a tiny little thing. He had more than tripled his size in that 1-year period! I love the clown loaches, but will not keep another in my little 12-gallon tank...it just isn't fair to the fish - they just get too big. Sure do hope to never have to deal with Ich again - ever...it was awful! And expensive! And time consuming!
 
Has anyone got any pictures of white spot on a clown loach?

I have 8 and touch wood never had white spot just curious what they look like.
 
Prevention is better than cure, are you quarantining new additions for at least four weeks prior to introducing to your tank?

A good treatment to use (@ 50% dose) is Maracide concentrate. I would avoid using salt though, I don't like messing around with the TDS levels. Raising the temp only speeds up the life cycle of ick and on it's own wont rid your tank of White spot.


Hi. I read your post with interest, but am wondering.... I have heard that any and all of the chemical treatments for white spot trash the tank's bio-filter, which, after treatment, must recycle again to regain balance. Is this true? Thanks. greencat.
 
Prevention is better than cure, are you quarantining new additions for at least four weeks prior to introducing to your tank?

A good treatment to use (@ 50% dose) is Maracide concentrate. I would avoid using salt though, I don't like messing around with the TDS levels. Raising the temp only speeds up the life cycle of ick and on it's own wont rid your tank of White spot.


Hi. I read your post with interest, but am wondering.... I have heard that any and all of the chemical treatments for white spot trash the tank's bio-filter, which, after treatment, must recycle again to regain balance. Is this true? Thanks. greencat.

Hi, I am by no means an expert on this subject having only experienced ich once. It was a bad case though and I treated it with a 50% dose of Maracide concentrate (bought on eBay) with raised water temperature. The white spot cleared in no time at all with no obvious adverse effect on the bacteria levels as there was no spike in Ammonia or Nitrites.

I understand the views of those that prefer not to use any chemicals though.
 
Has anyone got any pictures of white spot on a clown loach?

I have 8 and touch wood never had white spot just curious what they look like.


You can check out http://www.e-aquarium.com.au/white-spot-disease.htm for a great picture of a clown loach suffering from white spot. Mine looked even worse than this. My 2-incher that died was also covered with thick mucous when I pulled him out of the tank.
 

Most reactions

Back
Top