When less is better than more...

[AbbeysDad]

I can't count the number of times I've seen "there's no such thing as too much filtration". And typically this means bigger, faster flowing filters or even adding more filters.

In a hobby related FB group, I once saw a 55g tank with THREE LARGE canister filters underneath. I created a bit of a firestorm when I asked if he thought he might be over-filtering. You will also see/hear that the recommended flow rate for filtration is 8-10x gallons per hour relative to tank size.

But good filtration is about how well we filter the water, not how much or how fast we push water through media. More filtration might better be expressed as more filtration surface area, rather than greater flow rates. So effectively a larger filter with a slower flow rate is actually more effective than a smaller filter with a faster flow rate. And good filtration should really focus more on biological filtration rather than mechanical filtration. And a slower flow rate makes for increased biological filtration.
Countless large fishrooms function well with only air driven sponge or box filters and the very best aquarium filter doesn't even come in a box!

And then there's filtration media. Another time I heard a YouTube DIY King disrespect a canister filter because it contained a lot of sponge material. He had bought into the hype that biological media had to be ceramic, plastic, or rock. I've come to discover that bio-sponge material is every bit as good or better than commercially marketed "bio-medias" as it provides 'acres of area for bacteria colonization, cleans easily, and lasts nearly forever and a day.

And finally there's filter maintenance. Long ago I felt we should service filters routinely to get the crud out of the system. However, after years in the hobby I've come to realize that much like the substrate, valuable bacteria and microbes colonize and develop in the filter and cleaning just disrupts the process. These days, I let filters run until there's a drastic reduction in flow...and then I'll clean just enough to restore flow.

So when you see/hear "there's no such thing as too much filtration", think surface area rather than flow rate. And remember that filters merely trap organic waste where it decomposes and pollutes the water. A much better saying is 'there's no such thing as too much fresh, clean water!

 

[GaryE]

Excellent points up there. I actually 'retrofit' new HOB filters with wide pored sponges, and get myself out of the cycle of buying inserts. They are good for the companies that sell filters, as they create a revenue stream after purchase, but that isn't a good reason for us to buy the inserts.
In terms of filtration media for hang on the back power filters - aquaclears are still the best to me. I just turn every filter into one. I buy their sponges, and if needs be, cut them to fit.
I can see why someone might put three canisters on a tank if they like rapids fish - it would be great for them. How much you move the water really depends on what your research into where the fish comes from has shown you. I've had fish that were disturbingly aggressive in slow, calm water become downright peaceful when I cranked up the water movement to what they lived in in nature.
But there, flow isn't filtration.
I too am slow to clean filters - there's a balance where cleanliness in a tank is as dangerous as filth. Bacteria have to live and work somewhere.
I agree with you that the media is the message here. If I had a 55 with plumbing that fed to a 55 gallon filter, full of biological media through which the water passed slowly and steadily, well, it would work. I'd also be a little over the top, but. You want your bacteria to be able to feed at their own pace, and not be in a constant low grade drive-thru.
I think it must be wild for new aquarists to see how much the experienced keepers cultivate bacteria.

 

[Oblio]

@AbbeysDad I wonder how much good the ceramics (the cylinders with a hole through the middle) on the top of my Aquaclear 110 are doing, I've thought about removing them and adding more foam. I am also considering adding a pre-filter. 125 G, lightly stocked
.
Your thoughts?

 

[Slaphppy7]

@AbbeysDad I wonder how much good the ceramics (the cylinders with a hole through the middle) on the top of my Aquaclear 110 are doing, I've thought about removing them and adding more foam. I am also considering adding a pre-filter. 125 G, lightly stocked
.
Your thoughts?

The ceramics are fine, that's all I use in my HOBs, with a bit of poly floss that I change out weekly during WC's....I ditched sponges long ago...no greater benefit of them over ceramics, and I don't have to deal with cleaning nasty sponges every week

 

[TwoTankAmin]

Most of the above is right on. But the facts go even further in this direction. Massive media is the best filtration. have a read here:
http://www.swisstropicals.com/library/aquarium-biofiltration/

I run large foam filters in many tanks. My favorite filter, after a planted substrate, is the Hamburg Mattenfilter:
http://www.swisstropicals.com/library/mattenfilter/

Also consider this, most of the things that mechanical filtration is intended to remove are organic. Much of it will actually get eaten in a massive foam filter. However, it takes time for the desired organisms to colonize the foam. Some of my clearest water is in the tanks with Mattenfilters. These are pleco breeding and grow tanks and there is a lot of waste produced in them.

Further, I know I have established denitrifying bacteria in my larger foam filters because I can never get a serious nitrate reading. My nitrate test kits keep expiring before they run out or sometimes before they even get used once. This happens even though the fry from the plecos with which I work are known to be sensitive to nitrate.

 

[GaryE]

The large pore foam used in matten filters is fantastic. Another product that's ugly but good is a type of recycled plastic fibre tangle that I bought as "Japanese filter media" years ago. In power and canister filters, it's a great bio-media. I haven't been able to find it for a long time, but haven't looked hard as I bought a big sheet of it at the time. I still have a lot, since it is close to indestructible.

 

[AbbeysDad]

The ceramics are fine, that's all I use in my HOBs, with a bit of poly floss that I change out weekly during WC's....I ditched sponges long ago...no greater benefit of them over ceramics, and I don't have to deal with cleaning nasty sponges every week

I must disagree. Long ago I gave up on the cash cow marketing hype for commercial bio-medias, be they ceramic, plastic, or forms of lava rock. Oh any solid surface will allow beneficial bacteria to colonize, but expensive bio-media products are largely just full of empty promises.
ALL of my filters are completely filled with bio-sponge material and I only clean when flow is dramatically reduced which may be a month or two!!!

 

[Slaphppy7]

I must disagree. Long ago I gave up on the cash cow marketing hype for commercial bio-medias, be they ceramic, plastic, or forms of lava rock. Oh any solid surface will allow beneficial bacteria to colonize, but expensive bio-media products are largely just full of empty promises.
ALL of my filters are completely filled with bio-sponge material and I only clean when flow is dramatically reduced which may be a month or two!!!

Understood....just don't forget filter "cartridges" that come with many HOB's in your list of "cash-cow" marketing...."be sure to change your cartridge weekly" type of stuff.

For me personally, sponges are just not my choice of filter media, be it for bio or mechanical filtration, in my HOB filters...IME, I get excellent results with plain poly batting, around $8 a bag at Walmart, and bagged ceramic media...the same ceramic media I have had for years...it doesn't "break down" and need replacing often, if ever, if you buy the right kind

The batting lasts me around 1 1/2 years, doing weekly water changes with 6 different HOB filters...no sponges to clean, just a fresh piece of batting in the filters weekly...cut to fit, plain and simple, and inexpensive

There are many ways to succeed in fishkeeping, which is one of the reasons it is such an enjoyable hobby...what works for one, may not work for another...there's many ways to keep healthy, happy inhabitants of our tanks...sharing our experiences never hurts

 

[AbbeysDad]

There are many ways to succeed in fishkeeping, which is one of the reasons it is such an enjoyable hobby...what works for one, may not work for another...there's many ways to keep healthy, happy inhabitants of our tanks...sharing our experiences never hurts

This is true!
My 'complaint' with commercial bio-medias, even ceramics and pumice, is that in time they become coated with a detritus film that reduces their surface area making them far less effective. This is why manufacturers all recommend that a portion be routinely replaced (although few hobbyists ever do). The manufacturers know that the product will become less effective...well that and routinely replacing a portion puts more money in their pocket! Now the media could likely be reclaimed with a chlorine/water bath to burn off any organics (as is done with Seachem Purigen) but no one speaks of this.
Now bio-sponge material serves as both a mechanical filter as well as biological platform. It is undeniable that many large fishrooms run only on air driven sponge filters. Unlike ceramics and rocks, the sponges will clean easily and last nearly forever. More importantly, they can run and run, serving as an excellent bio-filter.
Your throw away WM polyester 'works', but limits your bio-filtration in the filter to those potrntially compromised detritus coated ceramic rings. But that's okay as most of your bio-filtration in established tanks is most likely happening elsewhere in the tank, especially the substrate.
Different strokes for different folks.

 

[AbbeysDad]

@AbbeysDad I wonder how much good the ceramics (the cylinders with a hole through the middle) on the top of my Aquaclear 110 are doing, I've thought about removing them and adding more foam. I am also considering adding a pre-filter. 125 G, lightly stocked
.
Your thoughts?

As I stated, I'm not partial to commercial bio-medias...Although I'll confess that I have a basket of lava rock in the 45g sump on the 110g stock tank. It sits on top of a repurposed hamburg matten filter that was once in a 10g. I also have left over Matirx/ De*Nitrate in the DIY bucket filter for the turtle tank.
But ALL of my filters (Aquaclear's and canister) are completely filled with coarse sponge material and I let them run until the output flow is very noticeably reduced to ensure the most highly developed bio colony.

 

[Slaphppy7]

to ensure the most highly developed bio colony.

In established tanks?

I was under the impression (from this forum) that the greater majority of beneficial bacteria are colonized outside of our filters, not within, once a tank has been stable for a given amount of time?.....mainly, in the substrate?

And, if that is the case, there's no reason to develop bio colonies (in established tanks) within our filters, anyway...the media can be rinsed in chlorinated water, after all, with no ill effects to the nitrogen cycle...again, according to theories I've read here on TFF

 

[AbbeysDad]

I was under the impression (from this forum) that the greater majority of beneficial bacteria are colonized outside of our filters, not within, once a tank has been stable for a given amount of time?.....mainly, in the substrate?

I think this is a yes AND no situation. Admittedly there is far more surface area in the tank, especially the substrate than in any filter. However, the filter sets in motion a constant flow of water to feed and promote beneficial bacteria and microbes, potentially maximizing waste processing.
So we can't say that the filter is the only place for beneficial bacteria, however, when setup and maintained properly, the biology in the filter may very well handle much, if not most, of the ammonia and nitrite processing....with the tank/substrate serving as a buffer.
Now having written the above, I don't think we can ignore the benefits that the substrate provides in the established tank as it can [also] be home to significant beneficial biology.
So the bottom line is that the filter is not the only 'game in town' when it comes to beneficial biology, but it can be a significant player in the necessary aquarium balance... and of course is crutial in bare bottom tanks.

 

[Colin_T]

Most power filters have a dark coloured case to stop light entering the filter and stressing or killing the bacteria. The beneficial bacteria prefer darker conditions.

AquaClear used to do 3 different grades of sponge for their filters. One was course, another medium and one was fine. I'm not sure if you can still get them but I had mostly medium and fine sponges in my power filters.

Most of my big tanks had air operated undergravel filters, and the small tanks had air operated corner sponge filters. Only a couple of tanks had power filters, mainly the marine tanks. The reason I had air operated filters was due to the number of tanks I had. I used one big air pump and it ran all the tanks.

 

[itiwhetu]

I only use sponges in my filters, and then my under-gravel filter as the backup. I know if I have a healthy substrate I have a healthy tank. No sand, simply fine gravel with a filter running through it.

 

[AbbeysDad]

AquaClear used to do 3 different grades of sponge for their filters. One was course, another medium and one was fine. I'm not sure if you can still get them but I had mostly medium and fine sponges in my power filters.

These days Aquaclear's come with a standard somewhat coarse sponge, ceramic 'biomax' media and a carbon pack. As I've mentioned, all of my Aquaclears are completely filled with sponge material. The initial is the Aquaclear sponge, then followed by medium bio-sponges. Although filled with the Aquaclear sponges would also work well. And also as I've mentioned, I let them run and run until output flow is noticeably reduced.

The reason I had air operated filters was due to the number of tanks I had. I used one big air pump and it ran all the tanks.

It's very common in larger fishrooms too use air operated sponge filters. My friend Greg Sage of Select Aquatics of Erie Co. swears by large air drive box filters with enough gravel to weight them down and filter floss that's changed as necessary. His bio filtration is a few handfuls of gravel in each tank. (but Greg is a real stickler for fresh water and routinely runs an automated water change system. (his overflow's are a 'plumbers nightmare -lol).

I only use sponges in my filters, and then my under-gravel filter as the backup. I know if I have a healthy substrate I have a healthy tank. No sand, simply fine gravel with a filter running through it.

Many fall for the false marketing hype that we need to have commercial bio-media, but it's just not true. Sponge material is excellent at mechanical as well as bio-filtration. And the much under-rated under gravel filter, when operated with just a modest flow of water (e.g. plenum) is a most excellent filter. Here again, marketing has convinced many hobbyist's that UGF's are not as good as their power filters.
Disclaimer: If/when a UGF is operated with a high flow rate and not cleaned periodically (e.g. grave vacuuming) they admittedly can become a nitrate factory!
See Filtration and Water Quality