Water prep-RO vs. DI vs. tap

[wherryj]

I keep having trouble with my betta, Ricci. He's in an Eclipse 12 with an added UGF and powerhead. He gets recurrent fin rot/fungal infections (and ONE case of Ich about 2 months ago), and it seems to keep coming back to one of two things: either 1) poor water quality from the tap (I can get the ammonia to zero, nitrite to zero and nitrate down to acceptable levels of 12.5 or less; GH about 4-7 KH about 3-4) as suggested by my test showing a pH of 8.5 or above (I do correct it to as close to 7 as possible) , or 2) temperature variations.

I find it nearly impossible during the summer months here in CA to keep the temp completely stable, since the house heats up faster than the AC can totally control. The daily variation is less than 4 degrees typically (strange days vary). It should be noted that our betta had trouble during winter months when the temps were rock stable.

I'm considering purchasing a reverse osmosis or dionizing system to help scrub the water of impurities. I realize that the particles removed by RO are limited, but would it be useful for aquarium use? If DI is needed, what would you recommend to replace the required elements?

Are EITHER needed or even recommended? Are they more trouble than they are worth? If so, does anyone have a suggestion as the the gallon per day recommendation for a combination of a 12 gallon, a 55 gallon and a 70 gallon aquarium? A rating that won't make me plan water changes to the hour that is!

Strangely, our barbs/rainbow sharks/Raphael catfish/clown plecostomus are doing GREAT in their 55 gallon downstairs. It does have better filtration (Fluval 404 plus UGF with powerhead), but I thought that a betta should be more "durable".

 

[Tanked]

bettas are generally very durable fish but to to massive inbreeding to get so many different colors the species has been weakend. you still get the strong o0ne from time to time. I have 2. one at hom and one at work and both are very happy healthy fish. my betta at home contracted ich and finrot when put into the community tank but since moving back to his home he has been fine with no reoccurances. as far as the water goes I would use RO as opposed to DI. DI water has all of the neccasary trace elements required for healthy systems removed. You may want to try bottled spring water as it is pure and still contains trace elements. only problem there is price.

hth

richard

 

[dolphin]

hI

I use a Kent Hi-s RO unit for my 1000 uk gall system. I add RO right to add minerals back to the water. This ensures that the water is pure, but save for the fish.

Pure Ro water or De-ionised water will kill your fish.



Dolphin

 

[wherryj]

I'll look into this unit, and see about the one on the site that I'm looking to buy my 70 gal pentagon (my wife won't let me go 95 or larger due to the size and price).

Thanks also for the info about weaker bettas. It has always confused me why my betta has so many problems with meticulous care and a great deal of love and attention while a fish owned by one of my office staff seems perpetually healthy despite living in a one gallon tank with only a airstone, deionized water (what's left over at our medical practice when the autoclave is filled), 24/7 lighting (I'm not sure how he gets by without eyelids!) and very sporadic feeding.

Plus, the tank is cleaned about once a month (sometimes two) and has a 100% water change at that time! Everything wrong, and still he does well!

I still feel like the lucky one since my betta has about four times the personality. Being a physician, I have been able to catch things early enough (up to, and I truely hope including, now), and this fish has had many months of playing in the water currents. When he's healthy he seems to be in ecstacy, and gets spoiled by my wife and myself-but I wouldn't have to tell anyone here after reading that I have had him in an Eclipse12 by himself for most of his life! A single betta in a 12 gallon....

 

[Tanked]

100% water change is very extreme. anytime there is water change the fishes envioronment is chnged which causes stress for the fish. I would recomend 25% water change on a weekly basis. that way the beneficial bactria colonies are not really disturbed. and the effect on the envioronment for the fish is minimal.

 

[wherryj]

My point exactly.

Her fish at the office: I couldn't imagine doing anything worse!

My fish at home: 10-20% changes at most, by himself in a 12 gallon with UGF + powerhead and Eclipse's BioWheel. Water chem checked regularly and always undetectable ammonia and nitrate, pH 7.0, GH 3-4. Mine gets stressed and develops columnaris or fungus/fin rot every month or two.

It has me very perplexed. At least the good news is that there is one very healthy betta that is doing well DESPITE it all!

 

[ostrow]

Check out thereefkeeper on ebay, if you haven't already. I'm getting one for my reef tank. Not sure what to add to the water for my planted fw tank. GL any thoughts?

 

[Great Lakes]

Ostrow, the Missus uses a product called leaf zone. Works well for her. We are down to just the reef tank now in preparation for a move. So I don't have a bottle of it handy to give you the particulars. Sorry

 

[ostrow]

Hey, GL, so this long-rumored move is happening? When? Where?

Oh, and isn't it true that if you use RO/DI to a freshwater tank you need to add a lot more than just leafzone?

 

[ste2k3]

I use kent RO right for making my RO water safe.

May I just ask a question, is that meant to say 1000 gallons in dolphins post? if so, one hell of a tank-what do you have in it?

 

[Great Lakes]

October 15 is the target date. Going down over the Labor day weekend to check on apartments vs houses.

 

[ostrow]

Where?

Are you getting out of fishies? Although I have a tank, livestock is always welcome B)