Water changes

[SwanseaGuppies]

Hi,

I was just wondering, when I do water changes, should I try to get the fresh water up to the temperature of the tank, or will the heater compensate? Does it matter if I can't get a perfect match? If I'm adding pH buffer, should I add this to the water in the bucket before adding it to the tank, or is it okay to add it to the tank once I've added the water?

Thanks

 

[Lamie]

Hi,

I was just wondering, when I do water changes, should I try to get the fresh water up to the temperature of the tank, or will the heater compensate? Does it matter if I can't get a perfect match? If I'm adding pH buffer, should I add this to the water in the bucket before adding it to the tank, or is it okay to add it to the tank once I've added the water?

Thanks

Im new here and don't know a lot but I think it's recommended to get the water up to the same temperature as the tank. I do mine in a bucket so I put some hot and cold and just feel it with my hand to see if it's warm enough. I had high pH and when I used a pH down addition. I added it to the new water first and then added water to the tank but I have also added it to the tank very gradually a couple of drops over a few weeks to lower it as well.

 

[Colin_T]

The new water does not have to be exactly the same temperature as the aquarium water. It can be a few degrees cooler and the heater will warm it up.

Turn the heater and filter off before you do the water change. Wait until the tank is filled back up before turning them back on.
*NB* Make sure you do turn them back on after the water change

--------------
pH, GH and KH buffers should be added to the new water before it's added to the tank.

The new tap water should be put in a bucket with dechlorinator and aerated for at least 5 (preferably 30+) minutes before being added to an aquarium with fish in. This allows the dechlorinator to come into contact with all of the chlorine/ chloramine molecules and neutralise them.

 

[Byron]

I concur with others, that the replacement water should be close to the same temperature. Never rely on the heater to increase temperature significantly, this is one way to burn it out, especially the smaller-wattage or less expensive heaters. They are intended to maintain a specific temperature when the ambient room temperature is close, but not to heat up cold water.

I always use my left hand to gage temperature at the faucet. Most times I aim for just a tad cooler, as this can really stimulate some fish and even result in overnight spawning activity. Some times a tad warmer. Depends upon the fish species in the tank.

Adjustments to water parameters must be done with the replacement water before it is added, as mentioned above. I would ask why you are adding buffers? Generally this is not advisable.

 

[Bruce Leyland-Jones]

I concur with others, that the replacement water should be close to the same temperature.

Yes...always remember that, in the tropics, the rainwater is carefully heated to the same temperatures as the deeper flowing rivers...and the warm and shallow pools.

Seriously though, close enough will be good enough.

 

[CRS]

I've only done a couple of water changes, the temperature in my tank drops from 26C to about 23.5C (I've got a digital thermometer)

I'm going to try to warm the water up a little next time, the fish seem ok after 2-3C drop, not sure how safe this is though

 

[itiwhetu]

Your heater/thermostat is designed to heat water and it doesn't care how long it is on as long as it is fully submerged. When I set up new tanks, I fill them up with cold water and turn on the heater/thermostat to heat the water. It usually takes about 24 to 36 hours to get a tank up to temperature. At night when the room temperature drops the heaters can come on and stay on to maintain the temperature of the tank. One of the things with canister filters is that the water cools as it runs through the filters.

 

[FishHobby99]

Hi,

I was just wondering, when I do water changes, should I try to get the fresh water up to the temperature of the tank, or will the heater compensate? Does it matter if I can't get a perfect match? If I'm adding pH buffer, should I add this to the water in the bucket before adding it to the tank, or is it okay to add it to the tank once I've added the water?

Thanks

I approximate the temperature by using a mixture of hot and cold water in a 12.5 G Coleman Cooler (in bathtub) that is pumped to the tanks. No buckets on the big tank. This takes minutes. I don’t need to adjust the pH, tap is good, but I do add conditioner to the water.
Used an infrared thermometer to get temp more exact at first, but able to estimate close enough by hand now.

 

[Colin_T]

I'm going to try to warm the water up a little next time, the fish seem ok after 2-3C drop, not sure how safe this is though

A couple of degrees Celsius is fine for fish. I only heated new water in winter when it was 5C from the tap and the tanks were 20C. Then I would bring it up with boiled tap water and get it close. Stick a finger in the bucket of water and then in the tank. If it doesn't cause your finger to drop off, it's fine.

 

[SwanseaGuppies]

Thank you for the advice. Fortunately, I think I have been doing it mostly right, although I didn't think of aerating the water for a bit, before adding it, so I'll definitely do that. It just dawned on me today that I may be doing it wrong. Thanks for your help once again.

 

[FishHobby99]

A couple of degrees Celsius is fine for fish. I only heated new water in winter when it was 5C from the tap and the tanks were 20C. Then I would bring it up with boiled tap water and get it close. Stick a finger in the bucket of water and then in the tank. If it doesn't cause your finger to drop off, it's fine.

Naw, I like my infrared