Update On Bubbles

[emerging]

I started my boy on a combo of Maracyn and Maracyn 2 Wednesday night because his fins were getting ragged on the edges... By Thursday morning, he looked as though someone ran him through a paper shredder. Has anyone else had this happen? (I gave him a second dose last night, and this morning he looks about the same as he did yesterday.) I'm an RN, and I know that when people take antibiotics, their symptoms can sometimes get worse before they get better. I wonder if this is also true for fish. My local fish store insists Bettafix Remedy is the way to go, but everything I've read in my research says Bettafix only works to repair fins after the infection has cleared up.

I feel so frustsrated and helpless! Any advice is most welcome!

 

[Lynda B]

I don't think I would've gone with M and M2 for torn fins. Does he actually have fin rot? If he does, then your treatment is correct, as fin rot is a bacterial illness.

Is it possible that he just shreds his own fins, which some males do. If it's just torn fins, I would've stuck with aquarium salt and bettafix.

 

[l.michelle]

You could also try melafix, for ripped fins, that and aquarium salt is all i use, other meds are more stronger and could probably hurt your fish

 

[emerging]

B)-->QUOTE(Lynda B @ Jul 20 2007, 08:35 AM) [snapback]1698501[/snapback]
I don't think I would've gone with M and M2 for torn fins. Does he actually have fin rot? If he does, then your treatment is correct, as fin rot is a bacterial illness.

Is it possible that he just shreds his own fins, which some males do. If it's just torn fins, I would've stuck with aquarium salt and bettafix.[/quote]


I am even more confused now, because in a previous post regarding this matter (New Betta - Health Problems Already?) you wrote:

"I agree that a dose of maracyn & maracyn 2 would be helpful in this case. I would strongly advise you to use regular tap water instead of bottled water of any kind. Seems the bottled water has either been treated to add something or remove something that doesn't work well with bettas."

 

[Lynda B]

You must've indicated that he definitely had fin rot, it which case I would recommend the M and M2, as stated above.

All torn fins are not fin rot.

If he does not have fin rot, he wouldn't need the M and M2, but just the salt and bettafix.

For example, when my last HM male was shipped to me, he'd destroyed his own fins during shipping. Sometimes they chew at them when they are stressed. He did not have fin rot, I treated him with salt and bettafix alone, and his fins grew back.

I'm sorry to be confusing. Sometimes, I think this is why it's best to keep one thread going per event. That way, I don't confuse a new issue with one I've already addressed.

This link, with pictures, might help you see if it is indeed fin rot...

http/www.healthybetta.com/articles/Illne...sis/finrot.html

 

[-germ-]

Not sure with betta but with damaged gourami i've used melafix and a general anti-bacterial successfully....
You must make sure the tank is perfect, cleanliness and water stat wise....

 

[emerging]

B)-->QUOTE(Lynda B @ Jul 20 2007, 10:15 AM) [snapback]1698635[/snapback]
You must've indicated that he definitely had fin rot, it which case I would recommend the M and M2, as stated above.

All torn fins are not fin rot.

If he does not have fin rot, he wouldn't need the M and M2, but just the salt and bettafix.

For example, when my last HM male was shipped to me, he'd destroyed his own fins during shipping. Sometimes they chew at them when they are stressed. He did not have fin rot, I treated him with salt and bettafix alone, and his fins grew back.

I'm sorry to be confusing. Sometimes, I think this is why it's best to keep one thread going per event. That way, I don't confuse a new issue with one I've already addressed.

This link, with pictures, might help you see if it is indeed fin rot...

http/www.healthybetta.com/articles/Illne...sis/finrot.html[/quote]

Thanks, I'll definitely check it out! Sorry to be all over the map...! Maybe this info would help - He's got long, white-ish colored threads hanging from them that sometimes break off when he wiggles back and forth. They look almost like spider webs stuck to his fins.

 

[Lynda B]

I know it's hard sometimes, because we worry about our finbabies. It's easy to get hyped up trying to figure out what is attacking your pet. I do the same thing.

And I know it's really hard to get close-up focused pictures of this kind of illness, but if you could, that would be very helpful. Or, even if you could look at one of the sites about fin rot/tearing and say "hey, that picture is exactly what he has!". Keep in mind that when the new fins grow back, they grow back clear/whitish and develop the color again later.

 

[Lynda B]

Another really good article on fin rot....

http/www.associatedcontent.com/article/2...bettas_fin.html

If, as you say, the tail is shredding, then it's fin rot, and not just tearing. Continue with the M and M2 for full 5 days. See if he's improving. He's in a hospital tank?

 

[l.michelle]

If he's alone, he won't need to be moved to a hospital tank, it is probably best to treat the whole tank rather than move him to a new one and stress him out

 

[emerging]

B)-->QUOTE(Lynda B @ Jul 20 2007, 10:28 AM) [snapback]1698663[/snapback]
Another really good article on fin rot....

http/www.associatedcontent.com/article/2...bettas_fin.html

If, as you say, the tail is shredding, then it's fin rot, and not just tearing. Continue with the M and M2 for full 5 days. See if he's improving. He's in a hospital tank?[/quote]

Thanks for these links, and for being understanding... I really do fret when my finned and four-legged babies aren't well! He's in a 2-gallon tank by himself, so at least I don't have to worry about him spreading it.

 

[Lynda B]

Hope the links provide you with useful information.... keep us updated on how he's doing.

 

[laurasbetta]

I am even more confused now, because in a previous post regarding this matter (New Betta - Health Problems Already?) you wrote:

"I agree that a dose of maracyn & maracyn 2 would be helpful in this case. I would strongly advise you to use regular tap water instead of bottled water of any kind. Seems the bottled water has either been treated to add something or remove something that doesn't work well with bettas."

If his tail is disappearing as fast as you mentioned in your other post, it's definitely a severe case of fin rot and the M and M2 are the right way to go. He will still lose some fin for a couple of days until the meds stop all the bacteria. It's hard to watch and wait as his fins disappear, but M and M2 are the best things to catch 99.99% of any bacteria that cause this. I've never seen them make a fish worse, but occasionally they are too late or not strong enough to cure the betta.

We're going through a case of this right now. Wally had a spot on his tail on day and within a day and a half, his tail was half gone. He was a very sick fish - just laying on the bottom except to come up for air. After one full course of M and M2 he is eating well and back at the top of his water, but still not swimming too well. He is on his second treatment now (3 days into it) and you can see some signs of new growth on his fins. Once he is done with this round of meds, he'll go on a maintenance dose of Bettafix for a long time.

Bettas are pretty tough fish, but they really can't handle stress. Ours got sick when we added a filter which created current and removed all the Bettafix maintenance dose from his water with its carbon filter pad (not a smart move on our part!) Some bettas do well with filters, bubblers, etc. and some do not. Temperature is another critical part for a betta. Too much temperature change will stress the out. A small heater with a precise thermostat is a must even for small tanks. Younger bettas seem to handle changes better than older ones (just like people.)

Despite all the "experts" out there, this is what I've found with our betta:

1. Use M and M2 at the first sign of fin rot.
2. Bettafix, Melafix, and Pimafix are great for maintenance dosage and small, mild, slow-spreading fin rot, not rapid moving fin rot.
3. Clean water is a must, but changing water alone will not cure severe or advanced fin rot.
4. Aquarium salt, BettaSpa, and similar additives will help keep your betta healthy, but will not cure infection.
5. Bettas usually don't like currents so filters are not a good idea on small tanks. Frequent water changes are much better.
6. Temperature is critical and should be precisely regulated at 75F to 82F.
7. There are a million companies selling a million different "cures" and "magical elixers" but they all just want to make a profit.
8. Most local fish stores don't have a clue about bettas (they're not a major money maker for the stores.)
9. Above all, use common sense. Trust your instincts and do what you think is right for your betta.
10. Sadly, bettas don't live forever (average is 2-3 years, especially for LPS bettas) so no matter how hard you try, you won't be able to cure everything.
11. You can feel glad that you did give your betta a better, longer life in a loving environment for whatever length of time you have him as opposed to him dieing in some small bowl/cup, neglected on some pet store's shelf!

 

[liz2]

I am not very good with diagnosis so I tend to do the same with all my poorly bettas. I turn the heater up a notch, put them in a plastic container with low water level, really keep the water clean (half change every day) and put tiny bit of salt and tiny amount of pimafix in. It works half the time!

 

[laurasbetta]

I am not very good with diagnosis so I tend to do the same with all my poorly bettas. I turn the heater up a notch, put them in a plastic container with low water level, really keep the water clean (half change every day) and put tiny bit of salt and tiny amount of pimafix in. It works half the time!

That's fine if the infection isn't too severe or isn't spreading quickly. Pimafix, Melafix, and Bettafix take too long on really bad infections.