Trying To Put Things Right

[Squigs]

Following advice last week and intense searches for a 2nd hand tank, I finally got one

I'm due to pick it up later on today but I shall be updating this thread as I go along to make sure that I'm doing things properly this time.

The current situation is a bit extreme, I have 3 fantail goldies in a 21L I know... the things a LFS tells you

(I also had a single WCMM but he was taken to the LFS yesterday)

Anyway, I've been doing daily water changes and feeding the fish every other day. I'd bought an API master test kit but, in hindsight I wish I hadn't. I bought it last week over the internet, it arrived today and it's not even the right one (they sent me a reef one) so unless they can deliver one by tomorrow, I'm asking for a refund and getting one from the LFS.

The issue is that unless I go to a large chain store and pay £33, which is a rip off as I'd paid about £20 over the internet, I'll need to get a Tetra one. I'd already bought a KH and GH one that arrived ok so I need ammonia, nitrate, nitrite really. Note: the LFS is trying to sell me the pond one saying that it measures everything I need...

Which one should I get? Is it worth paying the extra for API?

Thanks.

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So here's my log:

Set up:

AquaOne AR850 – 160L
Filter – internal that came with the fish tank – flow rate of 1000L/hr
Substrate - gravel
Stock - 3 small fantail goldies
Also have an interpet air pump, some ornaments and fake plants. I intend to replace the fake plants at some point but aware that the fish need some cover so will keep these until tank is more established.

Day 0 (16/09/11) – collected tank, filled it up and left it overnight to check it was water tight.

Day 1 (17/09/11) – tank seemed water tight so tank was set up and I added some food to the water (test kit not arrived yet so can’t do any tests at the moment).

Day 2 (18/9/11) - 50% water change and I moved the fish from the old tank. Also provisionally moved the filter media, plants and the gravel from the old tank (it’s Sunday so no chance of the test kit arriving today , will just have to carry on with daily water changes until it arrives, then hopefully will be able to decrease amounts/frequency of WC).

Day 3 (19/09/211) - 50% WC. No test kit delivered today either so I'm emailing the seller and asking for a refund. I can't really afford for people to be messing around again as I need one asap so I'm getting a tetra one for the LFS tomorrow.

Day 4 (20/09/11) - Amm 0, Nitrites <0.3 - got tetra kit so no nitrates tests and minimum reading on nitrites is <0.3

Day 5 (21/09/11) - AM - Amm 0, Nitrites <0.3, ph 8
PM - as above

Day 6 (22/09/11) - lunchtime - Amm 0.25, Nitrites <0.3, ph 8 - 50%WC, re-tested 2 hrs later: Amm 0, Nitrites <0.3, ph 8
Unfortunately I had to go away and I haven't been able to find anyone to care for the fish in my absence

Day 7 (23/09/11) - nothing done as I was away

Day 8 (24/09/11) - only came back fairly late and couldn't be 100% sure about the ammonia readings so 50%WC to be on the safe side. Nitrites <0.3, ph 8

Day 9 (25/09/11 - AM - Amm 0, Nitrites <0.3, ph 8
PM - as above

Day 10 (26/09/11) - AM - Amm 0, Nitrites <0.3, ph 8
PM - Amm 0, Nitrites <0.3, ph 8

Day 11 (27/09/11) - AM - Amm 0, Nitrites <0.3, ph 8
PM - Amm 0, Nitrites <0.3, ph 8

Day 12 (28/09/11) - AM - Amm ?, Nitrites <0.3, ph 8 - I couldn't tell Amm result, went outside, put it against white background and it looked yellow to me but when comparing to the card, I wasn't sure so I'm going to test it again now to double check (I think it should be due a WC by now!).
AM retest - still unsure of ammonia so 50%WC anyway.
PM - Amm 0, Nitrites <0.3, ph 8

Day 13 (29/09/11) - AM - Amm 0, Nitrites <0.3, ph 8
PM - Amm 0, Nitrites <0.3, ph 8

Day 14 (30/09/11) - AM - Amm 0, Nitrites <0.3, ph 8
PM - Amm 0, Nitrites <0.3, ph 8

Day 15 (01/10/11) - AM - Amm 0, Nitrites <0.3, ph 8
PM - Amm 0, Nitrites <0.3, ph 8

Day 16 (02/10/11) - AM - Amm 0, Nitrites <0.3, ph 8
PM - Amm 0, Nitrites <0.3, ph 8

Day 17 (03/10/11) - AM - Amm 0, Nitrites <0.3, ph 8
PM - Amm 0, Nitrites <0.3, ph 8

Day 18 (04/10/11) - AM - Amm 0, Nitrites <0.3, ph 8
PM - Nitrites <0.3, ph 8 - I ran out of ammonia test liquids so did a 50%WC.

Day 19 (05/10/11) - I was away so no testing. Got hold of a API master test kit though.

Day 20 (06/10/11) - AM - Amm 0, Nitrites 0, Nitrates 10, ph 8
PM - Amm 0, Nitrites <0.3, Nitrates 10, ph 8 (went back to using the remainder of the tetra kit for nitrites)

Day 21 (07/10/11) - AM - Amm 0, Nitrites <0.3, Nitrates 10, ph 8
PM - Amm 0, Nitrites <0.3, Nitrates 10, ph 8

Day 22 (08/10/11) - From my 6 consecutive days of no ammonia or nitrites, I'm assuming I'm cycled so I've started to feed the fish a bit more today, will keep regular testing going for a bit longer as I'm expecting a ammonia spike...
AM - Amm 0, Nitrites <0.3, Nitrates 10, ph 8
PM - Amm 0, Nitrites <0.3, Nitrates 10, ph 8

Day 23 (09/10/11) - AM - Amm 0, Nitrites <0.3, Nitrates 10, ph 8
PM - Amm 0, Nitrites <0.3, Nitrates 10, ph 8

Day 24 (10/10/11) - AM - Amm 0, Nitrites <0.3, Nitrates 10, ph 8
PM - Amm 0, Nitrites <0.3, Nitrates 10, ph 8

Day 25 (11/10/11) - AM - Amm 0, Nitrites <0.3, Nitrates 10, ph 8 - just noticed water change is due!

 

[stu40]

What's wrong with a pond one? i used to use one.Still tests for ammonia,nitrite & PH.
actually i found it easier to read ammonia tests with this brand than API

 

[Tizer]

there is no rush to do anything, as long as you change 50% of the water every day, you can wait weeks for the one you want to arrive. dont rush, dont panic, who important first lessons with fish keeping.

 

[Mowbz]

As above, no need to rush, your doing all you can with what you have, and the kit for the pond will be fine.

As above, the API kit is the best type as its a liquid re-agent kit as opposed to paper strips (easy to read, highly unreliable) but it can be a pain to read sometimes.

If the pond one is reasonably priced and is a liquid test kit and includes as a minimum - Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate and pH, then this will be fine. Having a KH and GH isnt entirely
necessary (i dont have these) but as with everything, its always good to have a full spectrum of results.

 

[stu40]

As above, no need to rush, your doing all you can with what you have, and the kit for the pond will be fine.

As above, the API kit is the best type as its a liquid re-agent kit as opposed to paper strips (easy to read, highly unreliable) but it can be a pain to read sometimes.

If the pond one is reasonably priced and is a liquid test kit and includes as a minimum - Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate and pH, then this will be fine. Having a KH and GH isnt entirely
necessary (i dont have these) but as with everything, its always good to have a full spectrum of results.

+1 those it's debatable whether nitrate tests are accurate.

 

[fluttermoth]

As above, no need to rush, your doing all you can with what you have, and the kit for the pond will be fine.

As above, the API kit is the best type as its a liquid re-agent kit as opposed to paper strips (easy to read, highly unreliable) but it can be a pain to read sometimes.

If the pond one is reasonably priced and is a liquid test kit and includes as a minimum - Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate and pH, then this will be fine. Having a KH and GH isnt entirely
necessary (i dont have these) but as with everything, its always good to have a full spectrum of results.

+1 those it's debatable whether nitrate tests are accurate.

True, but as nitrate only becomes a problem at very high levels (and the OP will be fish-in cycling, so it won't have a chance to build up) it's really not that great a concern; even ammonia and nitrite tests really only need to be either '0' or 'some' (ie; too much) IMO!

 

[the_lock_man]

even ammonia and nitrite tests really only need to be either '0' or 'some' (ie; too much) IMO!

Yes and no, it's useful to know how much you've got, so you can tell how much water you need to take out. But I take the point you're making!

 

[CezzaXV]

I had a problem with a seller for the API kit I bought online, so in the meantime I bought a cheap ammonia test from my LFS. Eventually it got to the point where I needed a full kit, not just an ammonia test, so I was forced to pay out for a API kit from the LFS. While I don't have any experience with the Tetra test, I can say that I found the API kit much higher in quality than the cheaper kit I had bought before, and it was well worth paying the extra.

 

[HayzH]

I had a problem with a seller for the API kit I bought online, so in the meantime I bought a cheap ammonia test from my LFS. Eventually it got to the point where I needed a full kit, not just an ammonia test, so I was forced to pay out for a API kit from the LFS. While I don't have any experience with the Tetra test, I can say that I found the API kit much higher in quality than the cheaper kit I had bought before, and it was well worth paying the extra.

+1

 

[Miles_hot]

Charterhouse are good at next day delivery - you'll get it Tuesday if ordered this weekend....

 

[Squigs]

Thank you all for your replies.

even ammonia and nitrite tests really only need to be either '0' or 'some' (ie; too much) IMO!

Yes and no, it's useful to know how much you've got, so you can tell how much water you need to take out. But I take the point you're making!

I agree with that, 50% water changes on a 21L tank are much easier than on a 150L!! It'd be nice to know I'm starting to getting some nitrates there. To add, I have nothing against tetra kits at all, they just don't have the nitrate testing and as it's recommended on the newbies guide to test it, I wasn't sure if the tetra test was suitable.

Charterhouse are good at next day delivery - you'll get it Tuesday if ordered this weekend....

I've decided not to buy the API one from the LFS and at least give the seller a chance to send me another one, after all we all make mistakes. I asked him to post the right one asap but still not heard from him so we'll see. I'll look charterhouse up though. Thanks.


A bit of an update on what's happened since my last post. I picked the tank up and I broke a plastic bit already - it's the middle column of the rim on the top of the fish tank. I wasn't too happy but didn't think it'd make too much of a difference. I filled the tank up, marked the water level and left it in the garage overnight to make sure it is water tight - it is, so I cleaned it up this morning and set it up (I'd already cleaned the ornaments last night, only a couple of rocks, plastic plants and a silk plant).

Now, I'd superglued the plastic bit this morning but it only stayed together for about 5 mins after filling the tank up

I've called the LFS to ask if it'd be safe to leave it as it is and as expected, they're trying to sell me the rim already. So do I really need to change the rim? I'm going to post some pictures as soon as I manage to find out how to resize them (too big as they are at the moment).

Also I poured some boiling water over the bogwood to disinfect it (it came with the tank and I didn't want to take any chances) and bits were coming off afterwards, as if the wood was disintegrating. Is that normal? I'm just worried that it'll still happen if I added it to the fish tank - don't intend to do it now, just asking for future reference.

 

[Squigs]

Here are some pictures.... will I be ok? Or should I try to replace the rim??

 

[Squigs]

Quick update, after much consideration, we decided to give the tank a go as it is and watch out for any leaks etc. Tank is all up and running now, I've added some food to the water but won't be moving the fish over till tomorrow.

I'm adopting the 'some bacteria is better than no bacteria' approach so even though the filter from the small tank has only been running for a couple of weeks I assume there will be some bacteria there so I plan to move the media over. I doubt the media will fit into the new filter but I'll try anyway. If that doesn't work, I'll move the whole filter over whilst keeping the new one. There are a couple of plastic plants so I'll move them as well. I read on other threads that the amount of bacteria on gravel and plants is negligible and I'm considering moving the gravel as well (temporarily). Good idea or should I not bother?

Can someone enlighten me about the bogwood I mentioned before pleeeease? Anyone with some experience will definitely have more experience than me

Thanks

 

[Squigs]

As I'd added some food to the new tank, I'll be doing a water change a bit later on, before moving the fish. Or is this not necessary because there won't be lots of bacteria? If I need to do a water change, how much should I change?

 

[stu40]

sorry bit confused your situation.Are you doing a fish in cycle using a filter from another tank that's only been going for 3 weeks?
If so, keep testing, keep doing daily water changes.Any time Ammonia or nitrite is above 0 do a water change big enough to get it back down.
The plastic bit that is broke is a brace (did you use it as a handle?) I believe they're there to stop the tank bowing, though i stand to be corrected.If they're not needed then why would there be one?
with the bogwood falling apart, if it's only small bits coming off. i wouldn't worry (you have just poured boiling water on it).If big chunks are coming away & it's distintegrating, i personally would leave it out.