thoughts on replacing foam inserts on filters...

Magnum Man

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I know there are lots of different opinions, including replace all the media with foam, but after servicing the factory foam on my filters this last weekend... they are starting to look like a replacement soon, might be in order, on some of the older ones ( about a year and a half ) so, what is the service life you are experiencing, with your foams??? my filters are still in factory configuration, except for additional bio media has been added... I've been thinking... between my 2 filter brands there is a roughly 2inch, & a 1.5 inch... the weak point on the sponge, would be bypassing around the edges... I was wondering if a stack of 1/2 inch foam would be better, at what ever your preferred thickness might be, as those outer edges would be "feathered" not a clean cut to bypass, and it would be easier to precision cut thinner foam, than thicker foam...

also depending on the water flow direction, if a layer of finer foam down stream, would push away from the coarser foam, after it started getting too plugged... if it was upstream, it would plug 1st, & restrict the flow of the coarser foams... if its worth even messing with, or extra thicknesses of coarser for would be best all around???
 
I know there are lots of different opinions, including replace all the media with foam, but after servicing the factory foam on my filters this last weekend... they are starting to look like a replacement soon, might be in order, on some of the older ones ( about a year and a half ) so, what is the service life you are experiencing, with your foams??? I've been thinking... between my 2 filter brands there is a roughly 2inch, & a 1.5 inch... the weak point on the sponge, would be bypassing around the edges... I was wondering if a stack of 1/2 inch foam would be better, at what ever your preferred thickness might be, as those outer edges would be "feathered" not a clean cut to bypass, and it would be easier to precision cut thinner foam, than thicker foam...

also depending on the water flow direction, if a layer of finer foam down stream, would push away from the coarser foam, after it started getting too plugged... if it was upstream, it would plug 1st, & restrict the flow of the coarser foams... if its worth even messing with, or extra thicknesses of coarser for would be best all around???
Check out this website for some opinions, select the Filters Data dropdown, and select your filter brand: http://greatwaveeng.com/
 
Sorry, I guess I should have clarified, I use mostly Aquaclear & Tidal hang on tank filters... I see the Tidal is under Seachem... not sure if the aquaclear is the actual supplier, or who they would be under...

:rolleyes: I'm kind of an out of box thinker, so the factory replacements can probably be improved upon...
 
:rolleyes: I'm kind of an out of box thinker, so the factory replacements can probably be improved upon...

I've studied several improvement sites, & have freed up an extra Tidal right now, to make my 1st modified filter
 
I really like the combination of a fine mesh prefilter, a coarse foam initial filter, followed by lots of bacterial substrate, high float rate material. I like to use this configuration with canisters and HOBs.

- Prefilter should prevent larger debris entering the filter, especially the uneaten food. By leaving the food in the tank you end up using less of it because the fish can pick it off the prefilter. My prefilter tends to stay clean because the snails and fish feed directly off it.
- Foam filter - I like the AC filter foam porosity, it has large pores and if not plugged with food makes an ideal location for biofilms to develop. The foam section with a biofilm works better to pick up smaller particles that make it past the prefilter, typically debris too small for the fish to bother with. I view the foam as a biofilm substrate, and I also view the biofilm as the filter not the foam.
- Bio Substrate - This zone is primarily to provide a zone that further converts ammonia and nitrite, it should not hinder the flow of water through the tank.

Cleaning:
- weekly clean the prefilter with the water change, just pass the syphon over the prefilter.
- Monthly clean/rinse the foam filter - removal of trapped solids, only get the filter to the point of allowing the water to easily flow through it.
- Six Months - gently rinse biomedia.

Cleaning of the foam and biomedia should retain at least some of the biofilm that has established on these filter elements.

I have only ever changed the foam media on my AC filters once, they seem to last forever. The foam media on my single fluval 407 has lasted 2 years with no indication of it breaking down. I think that if the foam gets quite plugged the rinsing has to be more vigorous, more squeezing the foam, and the more breakdown of the foam structure.
 
Coincidentally, it was a pair of AC filters I noticed some degrading in the highest flow area, as mentioned, they are probably the 1st two I bought, after restarting the tanks, and are a little over a year old each...
 
I had at least 28 running AquaClears at my peak. They all had the same loading. @ foms with floss between them. Over time I replaced the AC foan with 20 ppi Poret foam. I cut it to be the same size as the AC foam. I have replaced many AC foams over the years. SO far I have never needed to replace a Poret one.

Rolf C. Hagen makes Aquaclear and also owns Fluval.

shopping

I never used their BIo media, Used to just chuck it out until a friend asked if I got more could she have it. So I gave it to her. I also mow use 10 ppi Poret to make the prefilters I use on the ACs.
 
I had at least 28 running AquaClears at my peak. They all had the same loading. @ foms with floss between them. Over time I replaced the AC foan with 20 ppi Poret foam. I cut it to be the same size as the AC foam. I have replaced many AC foams over the years. SO far I have never needed to replace a Poret one.

Rolf C. Hagen makes Aquaclear and also owns Fluval.

shopping

I never used their BIo media, Used to just chuck it out until a friend asked if I got more could she have it. So I gave it to her. I also mow use 10 ppi Poret to make the prefilters I use on the ACs.
I been very happy with my HOBs too.
 
Me, agree with TwoTank, been running Aqua Clears since the early 80’s. When they were Hagen brand filters… Use the foam, and filter floss, and have nothing but good luck. I used an Aqua Clear with a salt water tank back in 1993, Lion Fish and worked excellent. Now I do the same, sponge first, hand full of floss and little bag of the ceramic bio balls on top of the floss. Simple set up, water always clear, tests are good.
 

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Sponge for filters should last for at least 10 years. AquaClear sponges used to last 20+ years so if yours are relatively new and starting to fall apart, contact the company and let them know. They might send out some replacements.

You only replace sponges if they start to break down (fall apart). Then you try to replace one piece of filter media, wait a few months and then replace another piece (if necessary).
 
Plastic mesh pot scrubbers creates a lot of biofilm for sure.

At some point I had to cut back a little on them, because every time I would slightly touch the filter it would start trowing large ugly strips of biofilm in the tank. loll.

If you crush the sponges when cleaning them they wont last... Gentle squeezes without pressing them too much and they will last decades.

Even today, my oldest sponges are by far the best and I take good care of them.
 
The AC sponges are not what they used to be. The way companies raise prices today is to not change thme but to degrade the product some so it costs them less to make. They made the plastic thinner too. I know because I got my first AC filter in late 01 or early 02. I got the final one probably a dozen years later.

Hagen still makes ACs, they hust rebranded a lot of stuff as Fluval- X ass a result ot their buying Fluval.

Do you remember when the 1 pound coffee can actually contained 1 pound of coffee?
 
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