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This 75 is a pain in the rump...

Fishiemang

Fish Crazy
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Oct 9, 2020
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No matter what I do, this 75 hits me with an issue.

The difference this time is only 1 fish is affected, so far anyways. It's the same fish I added just before I lost my severum. I think this fella is part of, if not the, issue on why I lost them other fish. It's my peacock. He has pop eye. Just noticed it today. Was fine yesterday. Pretty severe today. Hoping it's from an injury but....

He the only one in the tank. Added him weeks prior to losing my severum and bala. Now this dude showing the same.signs. Maybe I'm just reading too far into it, but I have suspected this fish was the cause of my severum dying. Too coincidental.

Here's hoping. Checked water. Is ok. Did a small water change anyways. Gonna keep an eye.

This is about to be a small fish habitation soon. No more big guys.
 
Pictures of the fish?

How often do you do water changes and how much do you change?
Do you gravel clean the susbtrate when you do a water change?
Do you dechlorinate the new water before adding it to the tank?

How often and how do you clean the filter?
What is the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate of the tank water?

What is the GH (general hardness), KH (carbonate hardness) and pH of your water supply?
This information can usually be obtained from your water supply company's website or by telephoning them. If they can't help you, take a glass full of tap water to the local pet shop and get them to test it for you. Write the results down (in numbers) when they do the tests. And ask them what the results are in (eg: ppm, dGH, or something else).

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If it's a peacock cichlid from Lake Malawi, they need water with a GH above 300ppm and a pH above 7.0.
Severums and bala sharks come from water with a GH below 150ppm and a pH below 7.0.

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Wipe the inside of the glass down with a clean fish sponge.

Do a 75% water change and gravel clean the substrate every day for a week or two. The water changes and gravel cleaning will reduce the number of disease organisms in the water and provide a cleaner environment for the fish to recover in.
Make sure any new water is free of chlorine/ chloramine before it is added to the tank.

Clean the filter if it hasn't been done in the last 2 weeks. However, if the filter is less than 6 weeks old, do not clean it. Wash the filter materials/ media in a bucket of tank water and re-use them. Tip the bucket of dirty water on the garden/ lawn.

Increase surface turbulence/ aeration when using salt or medications because they reduce the dissolved oxygen in the water.

Add some salt, (see directions below).

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SALT
You can add rock salt (often sold as aquarium salt) or swimming pool salt to the aquarium at the dose rate of 1 heaped tablespoon per 20 litres of water. If there is no improvement after 48 hours you can double that dose rate so there is 2 heaped tablespoons of salt per 20 litres.

If you only have livebearers (guppies, platies, swordtails, mollies), goldfish or rainbowfish in the tank you can double that dose rate, so you would add 2 heaped tablespoons per 20 litres and if there is no improvement after 48 hours, then increase it so there is a total of 4 heaped tablespoons of salt per 20 litres.

Keep the salt level like this for at least 2 weeks but no longer than 4 weeks otherwise kidney damage can occur. Kidney damage is more likely to occur in fish from soft water (tetras, Corydoras, angelfish, Bettas & gouramis, loaches) that are exposed to high levels of salt for an extended period of time, and is not an issue with livebearers, rainbowfish or other salt tolerant species.

The salt will not affect the beneficial filter bacteria but the higher dose rate (4 heaped tablespoons per 20 litres) will affect some plants and some snails. The lower dose rate (1-2 heaped tablespoons per 20 litres) will not affect fish, plants, shrimp or snails.

After you use salt and the fish have recovered, you do a 10% water change each day for a week using only fresh water that has been dechlorinated. Then do a 20% water change each day for a week. Then you can do bigger water changes after that. This dilutes the salt out of the tank slowly so it doesn't harm the fish.

If you do water changes while using salt, you need to treat the new water with salt before adding it to the tank. This will keep the salt level stable in the tank and minimise stress on the fish.
 
We have already covered my tank.maint in several areas on here...haha.

Found my TDS reader from an.old Zero Water filter thing I used for a short time, until it gave me metal mouth, so I stopped using that contraption. It does a great job at making the water zero TDS, but thats not good for ya so....I kept the lil toy it came.with.

My tap water is around 130~200 depending. My tanks.........ain't at 130~200. I'll leave it at that.

Ima do some work and tinkering, but, this lends some weight to a few ideas I have had over the years. Lets just say, the water ain't bad for the fish I keep, that's for sure.

The rest of the params.are.ok in the tank. Don't member the colors/numbers, but, acceptable. Is not a param issue. I have 2 filters operating on that 75 gallon now. That water gets rolled over a lot. Got a bunch more plant life in there now.as well.

I'm fairly certain that odds are that I may lose that peacock. The other eye is.clouded up a little and starting to get puffy. Nobody else in the tank is showing any symptoms. Going to change out some water again, for a few days, and get some new.energy in there. See if it helps.
 
We have already covered my tank.maint in several areas on here...haha.

Found my TDS reader from an.old Zero Water filter thing I used for a short time, until it gave me metal mouth, so I stopped using that contraption. It does a great job at making the water zero TDS, but thats not good for ya so....I kept the lil toy it came.with.

My tap water is around 130~200 depending. My tanks.........ain't at 130~200. I'll leave it at that.

Ima do some work and tinkering, but, this lends some weight to a few ideas I have had over the years. Lets just say, the water ain't bad for the fish I keep, that's for sure.

The rest of the params.are.ok in the tank. Don't member the colors/numbers, but, acceptable. Is not a param issue. I have 2 filters operating on that 75 gallon now. That water gets rolled over a lot. Got a bunch more plant life in there now.as well.

I'm fairly certain that odds are that I may lose that peacock. The other eye is.clouded up a little and starting to get puffy. Nobody else in the tank is showing any symptoms. Going to change out some water again, for a few days, and get some new.energy in there. See if it helps.
Do you have a quarantine tank or hospital tank to move the peacock to , and you say you tank water isn’t the same as your tap ? Do you increase or reduce hardness ? As it barely suits severum or peacock
 
Thats TDS. It doesn't reflect hardness, which is mag and cal, and a much smaller scale. TDS is just how much stuff is.dissolved in the water itself, without saying whatever it is. It is much different than what comes out of the tap.

I won't be moving the peacock to a hospital tank. I am.dealing with the tank as.a.whole. His eye is well beyond repair as it is. Best case it recovers, but the eye is going to fall out. Worst case, he dies. Nobody else in the tank is showing any symptoms, and like I said before, I think I bought him as a.sick fish, and missed it.
 
Welp. Today, I get off work, and I walk by the tank, and.the peacock, who has a crappy lookin eye, like a.slime.coat or something globbed on there. But the swelling has gone.down, and he swam up to the corner there looking for me to.feed him. He hasn't.ate.for almost a.week. He ate everything I put in there for him.

So...perhaps it was an.injury thing. Maybe this one.will be different. Has his appetite back. Just wonder how he gonna get his eye right again....

This pic was 3 days ago. His eye still has that cloudy gunk, but the pop eye swelling is much better than here....


20201224_203100_HDR.jpg
 

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