Thinking Of Setting Up A Saltwater Tankh

tomelk31

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I have been keeping freshwater fish for about 2 1/2 years now and want to setup a saltwater tank but need a bit of advice first.

First of i am looking to get a 20 - 25 gallon tank.

I know the general maintenance and setup for freshwater, but does anything change for saltwater (apart from Salt)?

Any good guides to help read up on care?

What fish are easy to keep/ hardy ?

Cheers,

Tom
 
Hi!

A good thing to read for info is other peoples journals. Can give you ideas how they started and what you would need!
With Maintenance there are a few things. Ideally you want to be using RO water (reverse osmosis) so you either get your own unit or use the lfs for their water. Also there are extra bits of equipment that can or doesn't need to be used. The list is very long!
It depends on the type of setup you are going for, there is FO (fish only) FOWLR (fish only with live rock) or reef.
I am still new to it all so can't really advise on fish!
 
Hi!

A good thing to read for info is other peoples journals. Can give you ideas how they started and what you would need!
With Maintenance there are a few things. Ideally you want to be using RO water (reverse osmosis) so you either get your own unit or use the lfs for their water. Also there are extra bits of equipment that can or doesn't need to be used. The list is very long!
It depends on the type of setup you are going for, there is FO (fish only) FOWLR (fish only with live rock) or reef.
I am still new to it all so can't really advise on fish!

OK, I will have a look at the journals now!
 
I have come up with a list of things I need. Have i missed anything of?

Tank (20 - 30 Gallons)
Light
Powerhead
Heater
Thermometer
Protein Skimmer
Reverse Omosis/DeIonizer
Sea salt (Instant Ocean)
Hydrometer or Refractometer
Test kit: Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, PH, Alkalinity, Phosphate, and Calcium
Live rock (Fiji)
Algae Scraper/magnet
Sand

Do I need a filter?

Also I have read about supplements. I think you need Salinity. Is there any other essentials?

Do i need chlorine remover if i have a reverse omosis?

Is there any good threads about the types o fish?

Cheers for all the help!!
 
I would reccommend refractometer over hydrometer as they are said to be more accurate!

Also youwould want a TDS (total dissolved solids) meter for checking your RO water is at 0.

You don't need a filter as the LR filters for you, the powerhead moves the water around to help with this.

Also best to get 2 heaters inc case one stops working you have a back up.
 
Yo and welcome :hi:

Hope your finding the site ok!

I think all your questions have been answered reading this. but as some help i done a small piece with basic information on setting up a small tank (under 55 gal) - hope you enjoy the read!! Any feedback to how you find will be grand!

In regards to your tank, if you have it already then great but if not, you may want to increase tank size 30 gallon, as it will broadly widen the stock you can keep, most dwarf angels, clowns etc are 30 gallon min. :good:

Any questions, hit me with them!




**********************************START OF BASIC GUIDE BY LEWISS***********************************



SIMPLE TANK SET UP

This setup is the simplest setup you can have, and is only possible on small tanks of 155 litres or less. It’s important to remember this is the bare minimum setup and it will normally not be as easy to maintain than if you were to use a more advanced system setup such as a sump.

What is also important to understand is that this setup will require more cleaning and will minimise the number of fish you can keep.


Why? Within a marine tank, your fish, coral and creatures will consume the natural nutrition which is held within the water. These nutritional elements within the water are crucial for good health, growth and colouration. In smaller tanks there is less water and therefore the resources from the water will be used at a faster rate. Without some of these elements, the water quality will decrease, which can cause symptoms such as low PH which in turn can cause death. This is why we do water changes.
Each fish/animal will produce a bio load, which contains ammonia. Ammonia is extremely toxic to fish, and will, if left high, kill them pretty quickly. Ammonia, nitrates, and nitrites are toxic and harmful to inverts and fish. The ways which we counter these, with this type of setup up, is through the live rock, which is a natural filter which removes these toxins. The filter pump, and protein skimmer help clean the water, and add beneficial help to the live rock. The filter pump is useful for running phosphate remover, bio cubes, carbon etc.



BASIC EQUIPTMENT LIST
- A tank no more than 155 litres.

- A filter pump suitable for marine systems. This should be able to filter the water, and remove/reduce any ammonia and nitrates that are harmful to your aquariums live stock. I recommend the FLUVAL 406 for most systems but any similar filters should be adequate. (optional, but highly recommended)

- A Protein Skimmer. This is a smaller filter pump which uses air bubbles to filter the water. This is especially essential for those of you who wish to stock corals, and inverts. You can run smaller tanks like these without them.

- A Heater. This is needed to keep your tank at the correct temperature. A reef system should be kept between 75° - 80° and a fish only system at the same.

- A Powerhead. This is a type of fan which is used underwater and used to create a flow in the system. This is important to keep the fish happy in their environment, to oxygenate the water, and for coral health. Dependant on the setup and tank size you may want to get two.

- Lighting. This will depend again on your tank setup. For soft corals, most LPS and some (minimal) SPS corals 2x T5’s will be perfectly acceptable. If you want anemones and/or to maximise your coral options/ corals health then you can go for 4x T5’s or metal halides. T8’s are the minimal lighting I would recommend for corals, and fish. The less the volume of water, the less light you require.



OTHER STUFF
- A thermometer to ensure your heater is working and temperature is correct.

- Food, for fish, and corals. Marine fish food should consist of live, frozen and flake/pellet food. Marine snow/calcium/copepods for corals.

- Test kits for Ammonia, Nitrates, Nitrites, and PH as a minimum.

- Refractometer for measuring the salt to water ratio. Should be between 1.024 - 1.027.



STOCKING
- Live Rock is essential for these size tanks as it is the main filter for the water and will remove ammonia and nitrates. A filter pump will not be enough on its own, and will require quite some quantity of live rock to filter it. You should aim for aprx 1 pound (minimum) - 1.75 pounds per gallon of water.

- Corals are not really restricted with the tank size, and provided filtration is good then most corals will thrive provided lighting and water quality is adequate.



ADVANTAGES
- Minimal costs compared to other setups.

- More space under the tank, and easier to move.

DISADVANTAGES
- Harder to maintain as you will need to clean filters, and test more often.

- Harder to correct an issue if it arises. Basically this issue comes with having a smaller tank, if something goes wrong, it becomes a problem quicker as there is less water and therefore takes less time to go wrong.

- You will want BIGGER! As soon as you buy your tank, you will want bigger. Smaller tanks limit the fish you can stock, and the quantity you can have. For example you cannot keep Tangs, (EG. Regal Tang, Dory from Finding Nemo)



SYSTEM MAINTENCE
This varies from system to system and each reefer may advise differently however in a reef tank filtered by a pump and protein skimmer your tank maintenance will increase.

DAILY -
1. Test water parameters for Ammonia, Nitrate, Nitrite, and PH (as the bare minimum)

WEEKLY -
1. Clean Filter pump
2. 10-20% Water change.
3. Clean/empty protein skimmer
4. Test Salinity.

MONTHLY -
1. Change supplements in the filter pump (normally bio cylinders, carbon, etc)
 
Thank you for both the replies. I am looking forward to getting in to the saltwater side of the hobby having really enjoyed freshwater.

Lewis - I will give you some feedback in a bit about the post. (just started to read it)

Thanks again :)
 
The post is great Lewis. One thing I did notice is you didn't mention any chemicals that need to be used (unless you don't)

What is the best place to buy a tank/products? (been looking at the Orca nano marine tanks)

Is it best to get a bundle or buy items separate?

Cheers
 
Lewiss you are fantastic at your info! Might just ask you about everything now instead of posting :hey:

Ebay is good for tanks! Sometimes you can get a good deal on full setups but you inherit their problems and everythig so can't make to your own as easily. I have bought everything seperate. Also Aquarist Classified is good for bargains!
 
Cheers.

Is there any good guides which have facts about saltwater fish?

Cheers
 
ohh noo, saltwater fish questions coming!! lol. Only joking. Best thing to do is go on a marine selling site and look at the pictures, then ask some questions about the fish that attract your attention.

The resource centre on this forum is great! :good:


I'm not that great, certainly when you compare me to the real experts like Seffie, Nemo, Ben, Sorgan, Donya etc. They are gods! :lol:
I just have too much time on my hands!

You dont really use chemicals until your stocked with corals and stuff and thats just to buffer the water with nesessary nutrients. :)

It's cheapest to but hand me downs on ebay, especially live rock from broken down tanks. just make sure its cured live rock (LR) ;)
 
:hi: to the salty side of the hobby, how about starting a journel of your journey?

Seffie x

PS we are starting a mentor/Buddy programme, means you have someone to PM - Lewis is free at the moment, so grab him while you can :p
 
I have decided that to begin with I will keep a couple of clownfish. I was thinking of getting coral when the tank is set up. What sort of coral is best for clownfish?

Cheers :)
 

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