Thinking Of Going Marine

[chr15_8]

Hi all as title says really, i would like to convert my tank high tech planted tank into a marine FOWL and will a coral if possible (obviously at a latter date)

The tank i would like to convert is my 15 uk gallon tank (66 liter, 17 us gallons) currently its a high tech panted tank and i fancy a change.
The Tank
26x12x13 (LxWxD)


I would be using a sump which will be bigger than the actual tank. The sump will hold roughly 27 UK gallons. (123 liters, 32.49 US gallon but will be more like 22 UK gallons, 100 liters)
Sump Size
26x18x16 (LxWxD)

Live Rock
I was planing to put in approximately 10kg live rock into the main tank and roughly another 10kg into the sump.

Lighting
Currently i have 1x 55w t5 power compact light (i think that's what there called) giving me around 3.6wpg.

Power Heads
2 x Hydor Koralia Nano (900 lph)

Return Pump
I was thinking about a 400 UK gph (480 us gallons, 1818lph)

Skimmer
I have no idea on the brand/make but it will be sitting in the sump.

Fish
The main fish i would like is a 1x Green Mandarin (Synchiropus splendidus) with a couple(2/3) of Neon Blue Gobys (Elacatinus oceanops) i would also like a clown fish (Amphiprion percula) if possable

Coral
Don'T have clue yet as i haven't started looking and not worth looking until nearer the time (a year after setup if I'm correct?)

Questions
1) Would a total of 20kg be enough live rock?

2) Im assuming for a FOWL tank the current lighting if fine (except the current tube i have)

3) If and when i get a coral it would only be an easy care/low maintenance coral would the lighting be fine (i understand each is different but would there be some that are suitable?)

4)Are the power-heads fine or could i do with just the one?

5)Flow rate from the sump would 400 UK gph be fine or is it too much/too little?

6)Can anybody recommend me a skimmer for the sump or what to look or in a skimmer?

7)Is the stocking i listed fine? or should i leave any out?

Sorry for the long post and all the questions and thanks in advance for any help/answers

thanks
Chris

 

[rabbut]

Not really enough system volume for a mandarin, Dragonette, unless you offer supplemental feedings of Copephods. They are specialist feeders that rarely accept any frozen foods

Flow looks good (remember the actual return pump flow will be more like 200GPH, due to head pressure and pipe-resistance losses) 42ish times an hour is what the turn-over is on that assumption in the display.

More or less any lighting will be fine for FOWLR, and a lot of filter feeding soft corals will be fine under that light also. You you likely need a little more for LPS, and some softies will also require a bit more light. SPS will need more light for most species

Plenty of rock there for the planned loadings on the tank

I'd look at Tunze, Aquamedic and Deltec for skimmers of buying your own. Having built my own though, I won't be buying one myself

As alternatives for the mandarin, take a look at the blenny group There are a few colourful members of this group that are suited to a nano tank, and the system volume should allow you to "overstock" a little with most of your chosen fish being relatively laid back.

HTH
Rabbut

 

[chr15_8]

Not really enough system volume for a mandarin, Dragonette, unless you offer supplemental feedings of Copephods. They are specialist feeders that rarely accept any frozen foods

Flow looks good (remember the actual return pump flow will be more like 200GPH, due to head pressure and pipe-resistance losses) 42ish times an hour is what the turn-over is on that assumption in the display.

More or less any lighting will be fine for FOWLR, and a lot of filter feeding soft corals will be fine under that light also. You you likely need a little more for LPS, and some softies will also require a bit more light. SPS will need more light for most species

Plenty of rock there for the planned loadings on the tank

I'd look at Tunze, Aquamedic and Deltec for skimmers of buying your own. Having built my own though, I won't be buying one myself

As alternatives for the mandarin, take a look at the blenny group There are a few colourful members of this group that are suited to a nano tank, and the system volume should allow you to "overstock" a little with most of your chosen fish being relatively laid back.

HTH
Rabbut

thanks for the quick response.

you mention building you own skimmer, have you any links? i like a bit of diy and am looking at building my own overflow box following the tutorial on melevsreef.com

would a clown be suitable for the tank then?

so if i went for a 400gph pump it would be fine? i wouldnt need a bigger one to make up for it?

also what do you mean by filter feeding soft corals?

would this cuc be ok?
http/www.tropicalfish4u.co.uk/TankCleane...ne/StarterPack4

 

[chr15_8]

Fish

1x Meiacanthus smithi
1x Ecsenius bicolor
1xEcsenius midas
2x neon blue gobies

total mass = 15 inches + clown if its acceptable

 

[SkiFletch]

that rate through the sump would be fine, but remember it won't be 400gph, it'll be less. Prolly in the 250-300gph range after head loss. IMO, designing the drain is a little trickier than the return. What were you planning on using for drain?

 

[chr15_8]

that rate through the sump would be fine, but remember it won't be 400gph, it'll be less. Prolly in the 250-300gph range after head loss. IMO, designing the drain is a little trickier than the return. What were you planning on using for drain?

Yea in understand it wont be Rabbut reckoned it would be more like 200ghh. As long as this flow rate is fine then im happy.

What do you think about the suggested stocking in post 4

thanks
chris.

 

[rabbut]

Flow rates are speculative without seeing the plumbing plans, head height measurements and the pumps spec's

The clown would be fine in there IMO

Filter feeding soft corals are basically soft corals that don't need light to "feed". Leathers would be a common example of such a coral. With a small amount of light, mushrooms and buttons (ricordea and zooanthids [spelling?]) should be fine also

My DIY Skimmer Thread

My design for a skimmer would likely need modifications for a sump application, but I have a few ideas ready for when I upgrade. What method of overflows are you planning? Are you drilling the tank yourself, or having someone else do that for you?

All the best
Rabbut

 

[chr15_8]

i was planning to try and build one of these for the overflow.

[URL="http/www.melevsreef.com/acrylics/overflow.html"]http/www.melevsreef.com/acrylics/overflow.html[/URL]

or would it be best to drill it?

edit.

I'm now thinking of drilling it instead.
don't sound to hard to do and is alot more reliable than any other way.

 

[rabbut]

I'm now thinking of drilling it instead.
don't sound to hard to do and is alot more reliable than any other way.

That is a good plan IMO

What I have do in the past for others with sumps from which their skimmer is to be few by an overflow, is drill one hole in the base, install a duroso stand pipe into the hole, and then a valve on the drain. I then put a second hole into the back at the top, where the weirs waterline is to be. Each pipe must take the full flow from the return pump on its own. You tweak the valve on the duroso, such that most of the water goes down into the sump through that, and a small amount goes down the hole in the back. This takes just slightly too little to start a syphen in the overflow linked to the hole at the back, but enough to prevent the weir's duroso intake from draining the water level down below the hole in the back This will be near silent when running, and will allow you to feed an overflow through the skimmer

I'd then drill the bottom of the sump, to allow that central pipe to enter the skimmer reaction chamber. This would mean plumbing the duroso piping under the sump and up through the hole... Anyhow, that's my way of doing that Hope that is clear from that description

 

[chr15_8]

I'm now thinking of drilling it instead.
don't sound to hard to do and is alot more reliable than any other way.

That is a good plan IMO

What I have do in the past for others with sumps from which their skimmer is to be few by an overflow, is drill one hole in the base, install a duroso stand pipe into the hole, and then a valve on the drain. I then put a second hole into the back at the top, where the weirs waterline is to be. Each pipe must take the full flow from the return pump on its own. You tweak the valve on the duroso, such that most of the water goes down into the sump through that, and a small amount goes down the hole in the back. This takes just slightly too little to start a syphen in the overflow linked to the hole at the back, but enough to prevent the weir's duroso intake from draining the water level down below the hole in the back This will be near silent when running, and will allow you to feed an overflow through the skimmer

I'd then drill the bottom of the sump, to allow that central pipe to enter the skimmer reaction chamber. This would mean plumbing the duroso piping under the sump and up through the hole... Anyhow, that's my way of doing that Hope that is clear from that description

lol my head is now spinning. i will re read after ive grabbed some late lunch lol.

while i quickly read it i see you mentioned drilling the bottom of the tank. is there any reason for the bottom?

main reason is the the bottom piece of glass is about and inch up and all the wight is supported by the side so drilling in the corner (on the bottom will make it weak imo.

the other reason is that the stand its on is a bedroom unit with glass ontop (matches in my bedroom) meaning i will have to drill though that and again im sure after filling t he tank up it would crack.

would i not just be able to drill out the back?

 

[ben1987]

two different types of blenny may cause problems

 

[chr15_8]

two different types of blenny may cause problems

ok cheers.

will have a look a which prefer.

im not setting the tank up for another 4 or so months so theres no rush.

 

[ben1987]

between the bi-colour and midas,

the midas is probbaly the prettier of the two fsih. Nice colouring and big blue eyes but bi-colour it far more outgoing at less shy

 

[chr15_8]

I'm now thinking of drilling it instead.
don't sound to hard to do and is alot more reliable than any other way.

That is a good plan IMO

What I have do in the past for others with sumps from which their skimmer is to be few by an overflow, is drill one hole in the base, install a duroso stand pipe into the hole, and then a valve on the drain.

So i put in a durso http/www.dursostandpipes.com/ though the bottom of the tank and put a valve underneath the stand where the pipe comes though?

I then put a second hole into the back at the top, where the weirs waterline is to be.

Is this in the sump or the main tank? if its in the tank do you mean the teeth on the box that i have to put in?

Each pipe must take the full flow from the return pump on its own. You tweak the valve on the duroso, such that most of the water goes down into the sump through that, and a small amount goes down the hole in the back.
This takes just slightly too little to start a syphen in the overflow linked to the hole at the back, but enough to prevent the weir's duroso intake from draining the water level down below the hole in the back This will be near silent when running, and will allow you to feed an overflow through the skimmer
I'd then drill the bottom of the sump, to allow that central pipe to enter the skimmer reaction chamber. This would mean plumbing the duroso piping under the sump and up through the hole... Anyhow, that's my way of doing that Hope that is clear from that description

do you have any pictures so i can refrence please

thanks
chris

 

[rabbut]

No pics I'm afraid. You can just drill the back if that's easier, but my skimmer design needs an active feed into it, so unless you can make it a HOB, you are out on your own for DIY skimmers I'm afraid

Duroso in this context is a modified version of that in the link The air vent is shut, and the thing extends back towards the bottom after the "bend" at the top to draw in water from the bottom that's free of larger air bubbles from the water going over the weir combs. This will not drain the weir if the valve is correctly set, but if it's alowed to suck away freely, the weir will drain, the duroso stall out, the weir re-fills, the duroso starts to syphon again e.t.c. If its shut too much, too much water goes down the hole at the back, making the system noisy through the back hole sucking in water under syphon...

The second hole I mention is in the display tank, yes