Things everyone should own and know

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tttnjfttt

I have a point, just don't ask me what it is
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When you head to your pet store to get your set up,

here is what I suggest you buy...
  • A tank (preferably at least 20 gal), light, hood or cover, filter, heater, and a net. Often you can find these things in a package deal. I am saying 20 gal because many newbies want to keep many fish, and are very disappointed when they realize how limited their choices are in a 10 gal.
  • Tap water conditioner - chlorine and chloramine is toxic to fish and you need to remove it from their water. The water conditioner will make your water instantly safe for your fish. If your water only has chlorine in it, you can also leave your water sit out for 24 hours. You must do this with EVERY water change
  • Gravel or sand for the bottom of the tank and decorations for the tank. You want to make sure you have some hiding spots for your fish.
  • A water test kit - You will need tests for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and pH
  • a thermometer to monitor the temperature of your tank
  • a gravel vacuum - to remove your fish's poop and uneaten food. There are two types you can get, the normal gravel vacuum where you empty the tank out into a bucket (in that case, add a bucket to your list), or a Python, which hooks up to your sink, and will clean and refill your tank.
  • An algae scraper - You won't need this immediately, but odds are at some point you will be needing to clean the inside walls.
  • A timer for your light - This is a nice luxury to have, and also helps create a more natural environment. This is also really good if you have live plants in your tank, because they are more sensitive to the amount of light you have.
Leave these products on the shelf...
  • pH altering chemicals - these chemicals will lead to wild fluxuations in the pH and also can cause some long term health problems. Your fish will adapt to your local water, no matter how high you think the pH is.
  • "Cycle" or similar products- this product is sold as bacteria in a bottle, but I have never had luck with it personally or heard of anyone on here having luck with it. Bio-Spira is the one exception to this, as long as it has been refrigerated constantly and is not past its expiration date
  • ammonia absorbing products - This one is iffy, but I personally believe that the less chemicals in a tank, the better. If you have high ammonia levels (explained later), I just do daily water changes.
Things you should know before adding fish...
  • Before adding fish, learn about the nitrogen cycle. This cycle describes how fish waste is broken down into non-toxic chemicals. The basics of this is the fish excrete ammonia, which is turned into nitrIte, then nitrAte. Ammonia and nitrite are very toxic to fish. Nitrate is safe up to a certain level, but needs to be removed by regular water changes. The process of building up the bacteria to take care of ammonia and nitrIte is called cycling your tank. This can be done with or without fish. When you are cycling with fish, make sure you have hardy fish and only add a few at a time. To find about a fishless cycle, go to http://www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=73365
  • Research the fish you want to get. Consider how big they will get, what they eat, their behavior, any special needs they might have, the temperatures they live in, and anything else you possibly can. Also, check for compatibility, as some fish can't be kept together because of aggression or size.
  • Learn about stocking levels, or how many fish you can keep in your tank. Many newbies are shocked when they learn they can't keep goldfish in a one gallon bowl, or that their cute little common pleco will grow up to need a huge tank. A general rule is one inch of fish per gallon. However, this can be more or less depending on the fish. Some fish are very messy and need more than one gallon. Others are very small and slender and don't count as a full inch. If you need help with this, feel free to ask for help.
  • Test your pH and KH before going deciding on fish. While many fish can adjust to almost any condition, it is helpful to know what your pH is. KH measures how stable your pH will be. The higher the KH, the harder it is to change the pH. The lower the KH, the more likely your water's pH will change.
  • Looking online can save you money. Many people have had a lot of luck with ebay, also www.BigAlsOnline.com has some good deals for those living in the US or Canada.
Remember, you are about to set up an entire habitat for your fish. They have certain needs, and are not just decorations to throw in some water and walk around.

EDIT: fixed spelling and added in corrections
 
Also of note if you're trying to save money on a setup buy the bulky stuff from a LFS such as tank and stand.
Then buy the rest from an online retailer such as big al's

Recently I setup a 125G tank. I bought the tank, stand and glass lids from my LFS for $430

I then spent $504 on the lights, filters, heaters, and other misc items from big al's. I'd priced this same stuff from a LFS and for basically the same equipment that I paid $504 to big al's for would have been closer to $1200 at my LFS
 
Add:
At least one or preferably two buckets just for fish water;
A measuring jug just for fish (for scooping water, mixing meds, acclimating fish, defrosting food);
An algae scraper (I like the magnafloat ones!);
A timer to plugs your lights into.

Also if you have cats or dogs a tupperware or similar box to keep the packets of fish food in cos dogs and cats lurv fish food!
 
I would question gravel over sand. But that's my preference I guess :dunno:

And add that as well as Chlorine most water supplies have Chloramine. Chlorine will excape water if left open for around 24 hours. Chloramine won't and needs to have de-chlorinaters added.
 
tttnjfttt said:
Research the fish you want to get. Consider how big they will get, what they eat, their behavior, any special needs they might have, the temperatures they live in, and anything else you possibly can. Also, check for compatibility, as some fish can't be kept together because of agression or size.
Good article tttnjfttt. I would add one thing on the above item. For beginners in particular, test the pH & KH of your tap water before you start researching the fish you want. Then try to find fish you like that also will be at home in the normal pH of your tap water. You don't want to have to start adjusting the pH unless you really know what you are doing. AN unstable pH and large swings in it are among the worst things our fish can encounter.
 
orientmatt said:
haven't you got the nitrItes and nitrAtes the wrong way round or am i being stupid
They are correct. Ammonia is processed into nitrIte which is then processed into nitrAte which is removed by water changes or used by plants or algae as food.
 
I added in most of the suggestions, and also fixed the spelling.

I think a fish only measuring jug is more a luxury unless you have bettas. With a larger tank, there is a little more room for error. I disolve meds in disposable cups, and thaw frozen food on spoons or in a disposable cup.

Thanks for the additions!
 

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