Hi, new tank is all setup & cycled etc & am planning to do 10% weekly water changes. Just wondering whats best to do with the filter media, - should i be rinsing this out weekly in the siphoned tank water, or should it not be touched? the filter is a Juwel internal Bioflow M, which has the 7-8 layers of media so would they all need cleaning weekly or not? The top poly pad i beleive should be changed weekly anyway, so i assume there is no issue changing that regarding the bacteria etc?
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tank/filter maintenance
- Thread starter Lee171181
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Lajos_Detari
Fish Herder
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Don't clean your filter for the first two months when the filters haven't fully stabilized. Let the beneficial bacteria grows for the first two months.
After two months, you can start cleaning the filter media.
Since you only have one filter, it will be good not to clean all filter medias on the same week. Probably, you can split half of the media for the first cleaning. Then clean the second half on the following week.
You can clean the filter once every 3-4 weeks to prevent too much accumulation of debris.
As for the poly pad which I believe is made of filter floss can be changed when it gets too dirty or when it's clogging the filtration system or when it's breaking down.
The main purpose is for mechanical filtration.
I don't think you need to change it every week.
Perhaps, you can change it once every 3-4 weeks or longer depending on the condition of the poly pad or depending on how clear you want your water to become.
Filter floss is good in trapping all the debris and small particles. So, it will make your water very clear.
Lastly, the beneficial bacteria stays mostly on other layers which serve as biological filters.
So, you don't over clean these layers.
After two months, you can start cleaning the filter media.
Since you only have one filter, it will be good not to clean all filter medias on the same week. Probably, you can split half of the media for the first cleaning. Then clean the second half on the following week.
You can clean the filter once every 3-4 weeks to prevent too much accumulation of debris.
As for the poly pad which I believe is made of filter floss can be changed when it gets too dirty or when it's clogging the filtration system or when it's breaking down.
The main purpose is for mechanical filtration.
I don't think you need to change it every week.
Perhaps, you can change it once every 3-4 weeks or longer depending on the condition of the poly pad or depending on how clear you want your water to become.
Filter floss is good in trapping all the debris and small particles. So, it will make your water very clear.
Lastly, the beneficial bacteria stays mostly on other layers which serve as biological filters.
So, you don't over clean these layers.
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FF_Guest1439
Guest
You need to do a 50% water change weekly. Not 10% It wouldn't be enough.
There are weekly and monthly routines. Weekly I'd say the top pad, as there are the biggest waste particles, needs to be cleaned. The rest in halves every month in the tank water you removed from the tank.
So first month the top half, the next month the bottom half of the media.
The filter media also need to be replaced periodically, But only if it's old and worn out. Most filter media will last for years
There are weekly and monthly routines. Weekly I'd say the top pad, as there are the biggest waste particles, needs to be cleaned. The rest in halves every month in the tank water you removed from the tank.
So first month the top half, the next month the bottom half of the media.
The filter media also need to be replaced periodically, But only if it's old and worn out. Most filter media will last for years
Hi
Sound like you’ve just set up a new tank.
Just have a question or two before going any further as to your query about filter / tank maintenances.
You mentioned that you’ve cycled the tank and filter, may I ask how you have done this and how long has your new tank been up and running?
This question is not intended to be pertinent as it’s fairly important to know firsthand if the tank is actually cycled first before going onto the next step/s.
A lot of newcomers to the hobby assume the following or perhaps after hearing advice from dubious LFS staff saying it’s just a case of setting up the tank the way you like it, then adding a bottle of whatever LFS stock or what came with the tank if was brand new (these are usually useless and a waste of money with a few exceptions to certain product/brands) and then leave tank running for a few days and hey presto “tank is cycled!”
Unfortunately it’s not quite as simple as that really.
Once we know if and how tank is actually fully cycled we then can continue with tank/filter maintenances and stocking options etc, all fairly straightforwards really once you get used to looking after fish tanks, one step at a time
Sound like you’ve just set up a new tank.
Just have a question or two before going any further as to your query about filter / tank maintenances.
You mentioned that you’ve cycled the tank and filter, may I ask how you have done this and how long has your new tank been up and running?
This question is not intended to be pertinent as it’s fairly important to know firsthand if the tank is actually cycled first before going onto the next step/s.
A lot of newcomers to the hobby assume the following or perhaps after hearing advice from dubious LFS staff saying it’s just a case of setting up the tank the way you like it, then adding a bottle of whatever LFS stock or what came with the tank if was brand new (these are usually useless and a waste of money with a few exceptions to certain product/brands) and then leave tank running for a few days and hey presto “tank is cycled!”
Unfortunately it’s not quite as simple as that really.
Once we know if and how tank is actually fully cycled we then can continue with tank/filter maintenances and stocking options etc, all fairly straightforwards really once you get used to looking after fish tanks, one step at a time
Yes, it was a 2nd hand tank which was emptied & refilled within a couple of hours using the existing filter & media etc. I then left it 2 weeks with various water tests before adding any fish. its now been another week & so was advised to do the 1st water change around now.Hi
Sound like you’ve just set up a new tank.
Just have a question or two before going any further as to your query about filter / tank maintenances.
You mentioned that you’ve cycled the tank and filter, may I ask how you have done this and how long has your new tank been up and running?
This question is not intended to be pertinent as it’s fairly important to know firsthand if the tank is actually cycled first before going onto the next step/s.
A lot of newcomers to the hobby assume the following or perhaps after hearing advice from dubious LFS staff saying it’s just a case of setting up the tank the way you like it, then adding a bottle of whatever LFS stock or what came with the tank if was brand new (these are usually useless and a waste of money with a few exceptions to certain product/brands) and then leave tank running for a few days and hey presto “tank is cycled!”
Unfortunately it’s not quite as simple as that really.
Once we know if and how tank is actually fully cycled we then can continue with tank/filter maintenances and stocking options etc, all fairly straightforwards really once you get used to looking after fish tanks, one step at a time
3 different LFS have advised that 10% weekly is whats needed so not sure why 50% would be required?
Tank is a Juwel Rio 125 with 5 leopard danio's & 5 harlequin ras currently.
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FF_Guest1439
Guest
I used to think that too. Though 25%. Someone on here gave me a graph of water changes and it's effectiveness and to get the best it's 50% every week. I will try find it for you.
It can also take a few months to fully cycle a tank and any change that you make, IE a new fish, changes to the filter, added plants, meaning the tank is no longer fully cycled. Though that's a bit more advanced than you really need to know at the beginning.
I'd suggest looking up the Aquarium Co Op on YT https://www.youtube.com/c/Aquariumcoop They have some good info on cycling your tank and go in-depth in the advanced stuff too.
F
FF_Guest1439
Guest
Welcome to TFF.
The new water needs to match the tank water temp as closely as possible, when doing WC's.
Myraan
Fishaholic
You could try swapping the replaceable part of the filter with some filter sponge cut to size and shape
You might have to experiment as to the courseness that might work best. The sponge will last basically forever until it falls apart, and as it's replacing media that would otherwise be thrown away, you would probably get away with washing it off under the tap at high pressure if squeezing it in old tank water doesn't work (I had a bad experience when the tankful of black beard algae that is now vaguely under control started to die off/get sucked into filter after i scraped it off glass so I could see the fish)
You might have to experiment as to the courseness that might work best. The sponge will last basically forever until it falls apart, and as it's replacing media that would otherwise be thrown away, you would probably get away with washing it off under the tap at high pressure if squeezing it in old tank water doesn't work (I had a bad experience when the tankful of black beard algae that is now vaguely under control started to die off/get sucked into filter after i scraped it off glass so I could see the fish)
Bruce Leyland-Jones
Fish Aficionado
Where do you get that from? It actually depends upon the general health of the tank and stocking levels.
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FF_Guest1439
Guest
Man, I had that. Thought I got rid of it. Haven't seen any of it for like 6 months and has now come back. No new changes to my tank that would account for its return. Sucks.
Interesting was exactly what I thought when I read it
LFS's don't always know what they are talking about. Some real knowledgeable, some more mainstreams like Pet smart/Pets at Home not always so much.But yeah, I normally just do the water change regardless of the temp. (See no issues) though I spend a decent amount of time gravel cleaning/ sorting the plants out, that the temps go down fairly quickly when you have 20ish litres in your tank. So by the time I ad the room temp water, the tank's temp is already pretty low.
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FF_Guest1439
Guest
In an old forum post of mine https://www.fishforums.net/threads/questions-about-fertilizer-co2.465231/#post-3981683
Myraan
Fishaholic
Bigger water changes are always better unless the difference in pH is vast, and even then you will adding the new water gradually, not dumping the fish into a suddenly changed pH.
About temperature, if your hot tap uses the same mains supply as the cold with a gas or fuel oil or similar boiler, you can use that, perhaps even directly with a python or something. If your hot tap is fed by a tank with an immersion heater, the hot water tank is probably filled with a cold water tank in the attic that is often open. Water that has been sat in that tank is thought to have copper leached into it and be unsafe for drinking or fish. Even if that is not true, I've heard stories that those cold water tanks are frequently polluted with dead insects or even a dead rat or two.
People who only use the cold tap may leave the water to stand until it's room temperature (which may also off gas chlorine, but not chloramine) if that is similar to tank temperature, they may use a spare aquarium heater to help that along, or they may add water that they boiled in a kettle.
And as you are not dumping the fish into a sudden temperature, as long as the temperature is close-ish you are probably fine. In fact, I've read that a small lowering of temperature is often the stimulus to make fish want to breed, as it mimics lots of rain during a new rainy season.
About temperature, if your hot tap uses the same mains supply as the cold with a gas or fuel oil or similar boiler, you can use that, perhaps even directly with a python or something. If your hot tap is fed by a tank with an immersion heater, the hot water tank is probably filled with a cold water tank in the attic that is often open. Water that has been sat in that tank is thought to have copper leached into it and be unsafe for drinking or fish. Even if that is not true, I've heard stories that those cold water tanks are frequently polluted with dead insects or even a dead rat or two.
People who only use the cold tap may leave the water to stand until it's room temperature (which may also off gas chlorine, but not chloramine) if that is similar to tank temperature, they may use a spare aquarium heater to help that along, or they may add water that they boiled in a kettle.
And as you are not dumping the fish into a sudden temperature, as long as the temperature is close-ish you are probably fine. In fact, I've read that a small lowering of temperature is often the stimulus to make fish want to breed, as it mimics lots of rain during a new rainy season.
If you have a combi boiler, it's safe to mix hot and cold tap water to get the temperature right.
But if you have a hot water cyclinder fed from a cold tank in the attic, I agree with Myraan. I use a kettle to add boiling water to get each bucketful of new water to right temp.
But if you have a hot water cyclinder fed from a cold tank in the attic, I agree with Myraan. I use a kettle to add boiling water to get each bucketful of new water to right temp.
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