T8 Vs T5

I mean is there a difference in what you can keep with T8's to T5's?
 
Yeah, in a medium depth tank ~15" T8s can keep most softies and mushrooms and perhaps some hardier LPS like zoos. Under T5's youll have a lot more success with most LPS although some may be prohibitive. SPS would not be advisable under normal T5s unless its within the first 6" or so of the water line and even then you'd be REALLY pushing your luck.
 
I am having a fish, live rock, snails ad shrimps etc, tank and if anything grows then it does so would T8 lights be ok?

Also my tank is 18'' in depth.
 
T8 will be fine for all of the above. you only need to upgrade if you are thinking of keeping corals

1 thing I will say thought is T5 will make the tank look a lot brighter whereas T8 will give a buller yellowish ting

:good:
 
Ok well i have seen an Arcadia I bar T5 lighting it says it fits to the rim of the tank, has anyone got any pics of how they look? Im having an open tank so i cant get lights that fit in a hood!
 
T8's are fine for your purpose. Especially for FOWLR's. If howewver, you would like to keep corals eventually, id say buy the T5's. Rather than upgrading and spending more moeny, do it right the first time. That way, you can add corals, even if they arnt high light requiring specimens. Oce you start visiting LFS's regularly and go into the marines coral section, youll want to start adding corals.
 
Yea im definatley getting the T5's now i was looking at pictures of some corals and they are beautiful..so thats settled!!
 
Technically, there isn't a difference just between T8 and T5 except that one is 8 eigths of an inch in diameter and one is 5 eigths of an inch.

However, almost all the T8 tubes sold are NO (Normal Output) and almost all the T5s are at least HO (High Output) and if not VHO (Very High Output). So the above advice is still true.
 
All T-5's are HO, T-8's and T-12's can be either NO or VHO

However there small diameter allows you to pack in more T-5's and they produce less heat and the bulbs last longer as a result, On CF anf T-8's you have to change your lamp every 6 months to maintain color spectrum but with T-5's you only need to every 18 months.

Since you can pack so many T-5's in you are acctually able to light a tank with more intence light than Metal Halide, if you have enought tubes you can keep Sps quite sucessfully under T-5's
 
But the downside comes when it's time to change all those T5 tubes as opposed to far fewer MH bulbs, though you can reduce the number necessary by overdriving them, but then the time between replacements shortens.

If you really care about the amount of light getting to your corals you go HPS. Far more lumens per watt and far cheaper to run than any of the other light types. However, since no manufacturer has put an HPS in a pretty black box and put the word aquarium on it (thus trebling the price) no-one really looks into them much...
 
But the downside comes when it's time to change all those T5 tubes as opposed to far fewer MH bulbs, though you can reduce the number necessary by overdriving them, but then the time between replacements shortens.

If you really care about the amount of light getting to your corals you go HPS. Far more lumens per watt and far cheaper to run than any of the other light types. However, since no manufacturer has put an HPS in a pretty black box and put the word aquarium on it (thus trebling the price) no-one really looks into them much...

Indeed, but aren't T5 tubes cheaper vs MH tubes thus making it a near wash replacing a bunch of T5s or a couple MH?

And (prepare the sidetrack) what is this HPS lighting you speak of?
 
It can be very similar, though T5s don't seem to like deeper tanks as much (24"+). I can find a pack of 4 54W for about £40, and a 250W MH for about £43. So prices aren't massively different.

My main gripe with T5s is the cost. It cost me about £100 -£150 for my 4 T5 54W tubes and ballasts. For £75 I got two 150W MH. That and the ability for T5 end caps to spontaneously combust. I was lucky that I was looking at my tank when my T5s decided to set themselves on fire. And it seems this is not an isolated incident (really check RC!).

HPS is High Pressure Sodium, or street lighting to you and me.

Standard bulbs are very yellow, but you can get daylight (6500K) bulbs which give you the ideal colour temp for great coral growth. They kick out far more lumens per watt and have a far longer useful life than MH. That's why cannabis growers use them.
 
CAnnabis Growers use them because the standard HPS kicks out around 4,000K a wavelength which is quite beneficial to vascular plants that are fruiting and flowering (ie when Cannabis is producing buds). I do do quite a bit of plant growing aswell as fishkeeping, and I have never seen an actual HPS that runs at 6,700K, What they do make however are MH Lamps that will work on an HPS ballast.

Also, most of the non-aquarium MH and HPS out there are single ended rather than double ended, which are cheaper but they produce less light and more heat.

Also, even if you can get a 6500K HPS or MH its only good for corals that live on the surface, and your tank doesn't look that good, 14000K is much more attractive, although its not really that great for keeping acros and Clams.

Just doing a quick compairison, a 54-Watt T-5 costs about 20 dollars, the Cheapest 150-Watt MH I could find from a reputable dealer that wasn't on clearend was 34 dollars; If we consider that you need almost 3 54W T-5s to match 1 150W MH so you multiply 20X3 and you have $60 but then you factor in that you have to buy three MH lamps in the time that T-5's last and bam you end up with $105, then you have to factor in all of the heat that MH lamps produce, and you end up with more light from the T-5's for the same amount of energy, and little to no heating problem, Get good end caps that are not flamable and you are set.
 

Most reactions

Back
Top