Supporting Brace Gone...

[Timmy_Bee]

Hi

The supporting brace has snapped on my Rio 240, and i can see the front pane of glass has bowed slightly. I'm assuming the brace is there for good reason, and i am now in trouble... Does anyone have any ideas?

the brace has just become unattached to the front pane. it looks like its just made of plastic, and its snapped off.

My plan is to drain the tank, drill a hole in the front and back (of the plastic rim) and put in a threaded rod with a nut on either end and slowly try to tighten it so the front glass isn't bowing.

So my questions are - is this a good idea, or very much not?
And is this the sort of thing i should do right now, or have i got time to think about it

 

[Aquascaper]

According to Juwel (but they won't go on record) the brace bar is not an integral part of the tank structure and will not cause it to fail. However, it will allow the top of the front glass to bow slightly (as you've found).

Drain the tank down as far as is safe for the fish and either superglue the broken brace bar or buy a replacement brace bar (they are not expensive and will save you a lot of time and hassle). When fitting, remove the old bar, drain the tank as low as possible and glue the new brace in place. Leave to set and then refill the tank.

If you drill the plastic trim you will be placing stress on the trim and not where it should be. You would probably find the trim snaps and then you need a whole new top. The brace bar holds the top trim right where it meets the glass, a area where it would be impossible to drill, etc.

If you really want to DIY then you can always silicone a clear glass strip of 4mm glass between the front and back glass near the top (like you get in bare tanks). This is fiddly, needs to be exact, leaves a mess and needs 24hrs to cure before you can refill the tank.

All in all, just buy a replacement Juwel brace bar

 

[Timmy_Bee]

£15, and it comes with all the glue so i don't have to worry about getting toxins in the tank. Lovely...

Yeah that's much better than me going to town with a big drill

 

[Timmy_Bee]

Anyone got any ideas how to take the old brace off? not only that, but the lip of the snapped side is also still glued in place...

I've got a feeling its staying put, and my new brace will be off centre (not the end of the world)

 

[Aquascaper]

Solvent would be the only thing that springs to mind but that may melt the plastic trim as well

Unless you're dedicated and prise/pull/scrape/sand the old bit off you may have to just settle for putting the new one slightly off-centre.....or buy another and put them equally spaced along the top

 

[raptorrex]

the best solvent for silicone is acetic acid, or plain white vinegar will do. (acetic acid is the "plasticiser" in silicone)

I ran a knife around the brace-frame, time and time again. till it came loose.
i then removed all the silicone with vinegar.

I have to say my Rio 180, bowed alarmingly with no brace on. ( as i tested the re-seated panel for water tightness.)
i honestly hate to think what would happen with a 240!


if you dont use the juwel item.
i assume you will need to make your own hood too.
or will the old light unit still fit, without the brace frame?

 

[Aquascaper]

Is it just siliconed on? Didn't realise that (as I've never encountered the problem), if so then as raptorrex says use a blade to separate then clean up the residue. Surgical spirits works well to remove silicone residue.

 

[Timmy_Bee]

will have to investigate, but the official replacement comes with 'Cyanofix' "Instant Glue" which i would guess is what the original would be glued on with? ill hack and slash and see how i go

 

[Timmy_Bee]

I managed to get the unbroken end off, and it looks like it is just silicone holding it on, so i will try to get some solvent to remove the snapped off lip that is on the other side.

Would i be right in thinking that this stuff would be nasty to fish, and completely draining the tank and moving the fish for a while would be a good idea?

Edit: Rapto - the bowing is minimal if im honest. Less than 1 cm between the broken strut, and where it should have been.

 

[Aquascaper]

Would i be right in thinking that this stuff would be nasty to fish, and completely draining the tank and moving the fish for a while would be a good idea?

Not sure, as a precaution (and if you have the means) I would move the fish and drain down (this will help reduce the stress on the new join as it sets anyway). You could always tape some clingfilm above the waterline in case of drips or something.

 

[wetwetwet]

I had the same happen on my rio400 several years ago(wonder how often this happens)

I came home to find large bow in front of tank!!! - all I could picture was 400l across living room floor any minute.

I immeadiately emptied 3/4 of the tank. there was a good 2cm gap from where the two struts had snapped and edge of tank.

I went straight to lfs next day, for advice (Lynwood Fish House, Tolworth, A3), they were more than helpful and lent me a pair of sash clamps (large wood working 'G' clamps - they build tanks/cabinets) to hold top of tank together and enable me to refill and get filter on... not pretty but worked...

Contacted Juwel to get new struts (also very helpful) and they some extras for my trouble

Anyway glued new struts in place beside old ones (just put some clingfilm under incase of dropage),then reglued old struts also (figured if it happened once it could happen again), so now have four braces. Returned clamps to lfs.

Scary time...

www

 

[raptorrex]

I managed to get the unbroken end off, and it looks like it is just silicone holding it on, so i will try to get some solvent to remove the snapped off lip that is on the other side.

Would i be right in thinking that this stuff would be nasty to fish, and completely draining the tank and moving the fish for a while would be a good idea?

Edit: Rapto - the bowing is minimal if im honest. Less than 1 cm between the broken strut, and where it should have been.

not only is solvent bad for fish, it degrades the plastic too.
which is why i keep pointing out acetic acid is the best thing to use.
not only does it work better, but can be used with the tank full.
all you need is a cloth to catch drops. even if a couple get in, it would do far less damage than any solvent.
acetic acid is the stuff used by pros, for just this job.

even a 1cm bow is putting great stress on the silicone holding the tank together.
though for a short time, its ok.

one other point here.
when using silicone, read the curing instruction for the stuff you buy.
dont use a "rule of thumb". 12, 24 or 36 hours.
the curing time for all silicone is tested for the specific mix.
the test is how long it takes a 1cm (hight and width) bead of the mix to give up its acetic content (ie cure).
if you fill the tank prior to the suggested time.
your fish wont get poisoned, a common misconception, but the silicone will not cure completely.
leaving you with a sort of "stuffed Crust" bead.
as water will virtually stop the mix giving up its acid content.
and yes i know silicone needs water and air to cure.
but will not do so with just one of them.
for this brace job. I'd just leave the lid off for the required time

looking back, I'm sure the brace frame, was fitted with silicon. (but would not swear to it.)
it was certainly re fitted with it. lol