Stocking my 55 gal Tank... Advice Please! :)

[dmpfishlover]

I just started a fishless cycle in my 55 gallon tank today, so it will be a few weeks before I can put any fish in the tank, but I want to have a game plan for when I can add fish. Below is a list of the fish I am considering stocking my tank with:

Bottom Dwellers:
Corydoras catfish (C. julii, or C. trilineatus)
Kuhli Loach (striped)

Algea Eaters:
Otocinclus
Bristle Nose Pleco and/or Hillstream Loach

Middle Dwellers/Schooling Fish:
Harlequin Rasboras
Rummy nose Tetra
Cardinal or Neon Tetras

Showcase Fish:
Dwarf Gourami
Dwarf Neon Rainbow Fish (Praecox Rainbow)

Top Dweller:
Hatchetfish

I have three questions....

1) If I stock my tank with some fish from each of the species above, does anyone foresee any issues with the compatibility of any of the species listed?
2) I will obviously be adding fish slowly in stages, starting with hardier fish first.... Any suggestions for which of the fish listed above would be best to stock first? And which are more sensitive, and should be added last once the tank is more "mature"?
3) I plan to add one species of fish at a time (whether it be 2-3, or a small school of fish) and then add a different species every two weeks, so there is time for each species to become "established" in the tank, and make sure there are no issues before I add the next species. Is this a good strategy, or is there a better strategy that I should use?

 

[Willbacon23]

I’d personally stick with one bottom dweller especially if you’re planning to add an algae eater as well. I’d suggest otocinclus and kuhli loaches for example but look into Water parameter requirements. Ppl often suggest staying away from dwarf gouramis due to DGD but do at your own risk

 

[dmpfishlover]

Hmmm... I had never heard of DGD until you just mentioned it. I didn't know what DGD stood for, so I had to look it up just now!! lol.... I have kept Dwarf Gouramis in the past (several years ago in a different tank) and never had any problems... I had three of them and they were very healthy. Maybe I was just lucky?

 

[Willbacon23]

Hmmm... I had never heard of DGD until you just mentioned it. I didn't know what DGD stood for, so I had to look it up just now!! lol.... I have kept Dwarf Gouramis in the past (several years ago in a different tank) and never had any problems... I had three of them and they were very healthy. Maybe I was just lucky?

I’ve always wanted them and then people on this forum suggested I shouldn’t lol! I guess it’s all at own risk I’m still really intrigued by them so if it’s worked for you before who are we to suggest otherwise

 

[dmpfishlover]

I’ve always wanted them and then people on this forum suggested I shouldn’t lol! I guess it’s all at own risk I’m still really intrigued by them so if it’s worked for you before who are we to suggest otherwise

I wonder if DGD might be a regional thing? I notice that a lot of the members on this Forum are from the UK/England. I live in the US, so perhaps the disease is more prevalent in Europe than it is in the US? Just a thought... or again, maybe I was just lucky? lol

 

[JuiceBox52]

DGD is here in the US too

What is your GH?

For algae eaters so long as the Gh allows I'd go hands down otocinclus. Love those little guys

 

[Byron]

DGD is the iridovirus, for which there is no treatment. It is prevalent in SE Asia where many tropical fish are raised for export to NA and Australia, probably some in UK/EU but not sure. It is primarily confined to the Dwarf Gourami species, but not all ichthyologists agree that it cannot spread cross-species. It is wise to never acquire this species unless you can obtain them direct from a reliable breeder. Store-bought fish can never be so guaranteed, so avoid them.

To your proposed stocking in post #1...

I agree with others, do not mix substrate fish like cories and loaches. Cories are not that aggressive when it comes to feeding, by comparison to loaches.

Bristlenose pleco and Otocinclus are OK with either cories or loaches from the perspective of compatibility/behaviour, but Otocinclus should have some natural algae when they are introduced to an aquarium as they may not eat prepared foods initially and are often near-starvation by the time they reach store tanks. BN need real wood.

Hillstream Loach is a highly specialized fish and best in its own space because its requirements are not suited to most other tropical fishes. It needs a strong current, algae-covered rocks, and coolewr temperatures. Some of the other fish will not last in this.

Shoaling (sometimes termed schooling) sdpecies need a group, and the more the better, so when considering hatchetfish, tetras, rasboras, rainbowfish, cories, and loaches, keep this in mind. For example, a group of 7-8 cories might seem "OK" but the fact is that they will be significantly healthier and "happier" with 12-15, or 20. It is better to have larger shoals of such species rather than fewer of more species. And always acquire/add the entire intended number of a shoaling species, never smaller additions. They will settle in much faster and better with less chance of ich or similar, and some species may have hierarchial aspects that will work better this way.

 

[Naughts]

I have c. trilineatus, rummy nose tetra and praecox rainbow. I moved out my neon tetra as they were too sedate for the very active rummy's - hatchets, gourami and raspbora may have the same difficulty with rummy nose tetras.
Cardinals need slightly warmer water and otocinclus need a mature tank.
Knowing the GH would help select suitable species.

 

[dmpfishlover]

DGD is the iridovirus, for which there is no treatment. It is prevalent in SE Asia where many tropical fish are raised for export to NA and Australia, probably some in UK/EU but not sure. It is primarily confined to the Dwarf Gourami species, but not all ichthyologists agree that it cannot spread cross-species. It is wise to never acquire this species unless you can obtain them direct from a reliable breeder. Store-bought fish can never be so guaranteed, so avoid them.

To your proposed stocking in post #1...

I agree with others, do not mix substrate fish like cories and loaches. Cories are not that aggressive when it comes to feeding, by comparison to loaches.

Bristlenose pleco and Otocinclus are OK with either cories or loaches from the perspective of compatibility/behaviour, but Otocinclus should have some natural algae when they are introduced to an aquarium as they may not eat prepared foods initially and are often near-starvation by the time they reach store tanks. BN need real wood.

Hillstream Loach is a highly specialized fish and best in its own space because its requirements are not suited to most other tropical fishes. It needs a strong current, algae-covered rocks, and coolewr temperatures. Some of the other fish will not last in this.

Shoaling (sometimes termed schooling) sdpecies need a group, and the more the better, so when considering hatchetfish, tetras, rasboras, rainbowfish, cories, and loaches, keep this in mind. For example, a group of 7-8 cories might seem "OK" but the fact is that they will be significantly healthier and "happier" with 12-15, or 20. It is better to have larger shoals of such species rather than fewer of more species. And always acquire/add the entire intended number of a shoaling species, never smaller additions. They will settle in much faster and better with less chance of ich or similar, and some species may have hierarchial aspects that will work better this way.

Ok, so I have crossed Hillstream Loaches off of my list. Thanks for pointing out that they really don't fit with the water parameter requirement of the other fish on my list. Also, I will probably now avoid Dwarf Gouramis, unless I can find a reputable breeder. That's unfortunate because they are such a beautiful and interesting fish.

I am well aware of the shoaling/schooling requirements of the fish on my list, and already planned on stocking a minimum of 8 (likely more in most cases) of each of these species that I end up stocking (i.e. Cories, loaches, Rasboras, Tetras, Otocinclus, Rainbow fish, etc..) in the tank... I totally agree, I would much rather have fewer species and larger schools/shoals of those species that I do have. Not only is it better for the fish, but I find the look in the tank more natural and less busy then that of the "Noah's Arc Tank". lol...I planned on adding one species at a time (entire school at once; the intended number to be kept of that species) separated by a couple of weeks before adding the next species, as long as all goes well with the previous species added to the tank.

As for the Otocinclus, if I chose to go with this species, I will make sure that they are added later on when there is algae in the tank for them. Thank you for pointing this out. I have heard horror stories about how they are shipped to pet stores in such large numbers and not fed adequately enough, so that they are often already starving to death when purchased... So I will definitely not be buying them if they don't have nice round little bellies.

In regards to the BN Pleco, I have TONS of driftwood in the tank (Mopani, Malaysian, and Spiderwood), and if I decide to go with this species, I will make sure there is algae growing on the wood before getting the fish.

Thank you for all of your advice! It is greatly appreciated!

 

[dmpfishlover]

DGD is here in the US too

What is your GH?

For algae eaters so long as the Gh allows I'd go hands down otocinclus. Love those little guys

Ok, so I guess my theory about DGD was not accurate at all! lol

My GH is around 8

 

[JuiceBox52]

Ok, so I have crossed Hillstream Loaches off of my list. Thanks for pointing out that they really don't fit with the water parameter requirement of the other fish on my list. Also, I will probably now avoid Dwarf Gouramis, unless I can find a reputable breeder. That's unfortunate because they are such a beautiful and interesting fish.

I am well aware of the shoaling/schooling requirements of the fish on my list, and already planned on stocking a minimum of 8 (likely more in most cases) of each of these species that I end up stocking (i.e. Cories, loaches, Rasboras, Tetras, Otocinclus, Rainbow fish, etc..) in the tank... I totally agree, I would much rather have fewer species and larger schools/shoals of those species that I do have. Not only is it better for the fish, but I find the look in the tank more natural and less busy then that of the "Noah's Arc Tank". lol...I planned on adding one species at a time (entire school at once; the intended number to be kept of that species) separated by a couple of weeks before adding the next species, as long as all goes well with the previous species added to the tank.

As for the Otocinclus, if I chose to go with this species, I will make sure that they are added later on when there is algae in the tank for them. Thank you for pointing this out. I have heard horror stories about how they are shipped to pet stores in such large numbers and not fed adequately enough, so that they are often already starving to death when purchased... So I will definitely not be buying them if they don't have nice round little bellies.

In regards to the BN Pleco, I have TONS of driftwood in the tank (Mopani, Malaysian, and Spiderwood), and if I decide to go with this species, I will make sure there is algae growing on the wood before getting the fish.

Thank you for all of your advice! It is greatly appreciated!

It might be better to purchase the ones without round bellies, you will be saving then from starvation after all. You might even be able to point out that its "sick" and get a discount

 

[dmpfishlover]

I have c. trilineatus, rummy nose tetra and praecox rainbow. I moved out my neon tetra as they were too sedate for the very active rummy's - hatchets, gourami and raspbora may have the same difficulty with rummy nose tetras.
Cardinals need slightly warmer water and otocinclus need a mature tank.
Knowing the GH would help select suitable species.

Hhmmm... Ive heard of many people keeping Rummy nose with Harlequin Rasboras before? I'm on the fence about Cardinal or Neon Tetras... I honestly would prefer the Cardinal over the Neon, but I might rule them out becuase I have heard they do require pretty specific water parameters (namely Temp, pH et.) and are sensitive to changes. I will definitely wait to add Oto's until the tank is "mature", if I do decide to go with that species. Thanks for the advice!!

 

[dmpfishlover]

It might be better to purchase the ones without round bellies, you will be saving then from starvation after all. You might even be able to point out that its "sick" and get a discount

That's a good point and a Nice thought!! Unfortunately, I have heard that they often do not recover at that point.

 

[JuiceBox52]

That's a good point and a Nice thought!! Unfortunately, I have heard that they often do not recover at that point.

Yeah. 2 of mine died after I bought them. They were so skinny poor guys I saved the other 7 though. All but 2 were skinny when purchased

 

[dmpfishlover]

Yeah. 2 of mine died after I bought them. They were so skinny poor guys I saved the other 7 though. All but 2 were skinny when purchased

It's so sad...