Stocking but not overstocking?

[SaFyQ448]

Hi, I have a 37 planted aquarium. Currently 4 corydoras (yes I know I should have more, there are some eggs in the tank) and 1 bristlenose pleco.
I want to add harlequin rasboras and ember tetras to the tank.
Whats the best number combo of like both of them together or just 1 or the other.
I really like both of them and I can't decide.
How many 2 inch fish can I even add to that tank?

 

[BettaFishGirl]

Do you mean 37 gallon or 37 liters? If it's 37 gallon you, IMO can have both. Maybe 10-12 harlequin rasboras and 12-16 ember tetras.

 

[SaFyQ448]

Do you mean 37 gallon or 37 liters? If it's 37 gallon you, IMO can have both. Maybe 10-12 harlequin rasboras and 12-16 ember tetras.

Sorry gallons yes

 

[BettaFishGirl]

Ok, then what I said above is accurate. Just make sure you have lots of live plants and hiding spots for them so the rasboras or ember tetras can get away from each school if need be.

 

[Byron]

Agree. People often get confused over just what stocking is all about. The primary factor is that the fish, if it is a shoaling/schooling species, must have a decent number. Your cories for example are having issues because of the numbers, there must be more of them. So I would deal with this issue first. A group of 10-15 would be fine in this tank.

Then the upper fish, if they are shoaling as the rasboras and tetras are, must have groups and her I would consider 10-12 of each as absolute minimum. Embers are much smaller fish, and these are always better with a few more, so 15 perhaps. With 10 of the Harlequin. Always acquire a sufficient number of a species rather than trying for two at too few each. There are scientific studies proving that small groups (one study used groups of three, five and ten) show increased aggression and even a latency to feed. When that happens, we can be certain it is a big issue for the fish.

Having the right number reduces stress, and this means it has less effect on the biological system. In other words, the fish will be healthier.

 

[SaFyQ448]

Agree. People often get confused over just what stocking is all about. The primary factor is that the fish, if it is a shoaling/schooling species, must have a decent number. Your cories for example are having issues because of the numbers, there must be more of them. So I would deal with this issue first. A group of 10-15 would be fine in this tank.

Then the upper fish, if they are shoaling as the rasboras and tetras are, must have groups and her I would consider 10-12 of each as absolute minimum. Embers are much smaller fish, and these are always better with a few more, so 15 perhaps. With 10 of the Harlequin. Always acquire a sufficient number of a species rather than trying for two at too few each. There are scientific studies proving that small groups (one study used groups of three, five and ten) show increased aggression and even a latency to feed. When that happens, we can be certain it is a big issue for the fish.

Having the right number reduces stress, and this means it has less effect on the biological system. In other words, the fish will be healthier.

I have a follow up question. I was told by my neighbor that I can get away with a good canister filter alone. I have a penn plax cascade 1000 made for 100 gallons of water. With my 37 gallon tank I was given it with a very large hang on back filter and a canister. Would it be OK to remove the hang on back?

 

[Byron]

I have a follow up question. I was told by my neighbor that I can get away with a good canister filter alone. I have a penn plax cascade 1000 made for 100 gallons of water. With my 37 gallon tank I was given it with a very large hang on back filter and a canister. Would it be OK to remove the hang on back?

Filtration is another mis-understood thing in our hobby. The filter has two purposes, first to move water creating a current, and second to perform filtration which may be mechanical, biological or chemical. Which of all these you need should depend solely upon the fish species. Some fish need a stronger current, some come from quiet waters including even swamps and ponds. This affects stocking too, as you don't want extremes at either end of this, since one or more likely both will be harmed. That is the primary factor.

As for the filtration, mechanical is useful to have clear water. I had a tank without a filter some years ago, and all was well except the water was never crystal clear. Mechanical filtration removes the microscopic suspended particulates and you have crystal clear water. "Clean" water is different, this we can achieve with live plants, biological filtration, and sometimes when necessary chemical filtration. Biological filtration should not be encouraged with live plants, because it is competing. I had simple sponge filters in all my tanks up to and including 40 gallons. The larger tanks, a 70g, 90g and 115g had canisters. I do not like HOB because they are less controllable. And back in the 1980's when I was away once the power went out and when it came back on (I was not home yet) the HOB motor burn out. Lucky there wasn't a fire. But it put me off HOB's, though I'm sure this could occur with other filters. But not canister nor sponges.

The fish you intend need plants, especially floating. That minimizes the biological filtration. Cories like a bit of current, so provided you can provide this, go with the Penn Plax. I'm assuming this is a canister. Can you adjust the flow? Another trick is to have the filter return at one rear corner, aimed down the tank to the opposite wall. Another trick is placing a heavy chunk of wood vertically so the filter is aimed into this, and it dissipates with less direct current. Lots of options.

The surface disturbance is important for the gas exchange, day and night. You don't want to drive out all the CO2 that plants need during daylight, but at night you don't want the CO2 building to extremes.

 

[SaFyQ448]

Filtration is another mis-understood thing in our hobby. The filter has two purposes, first to move water creating a current, and second to perform filtration which may be mechanical, biological or chemical. Which of all these you need should depend solely upon the fish species. Some fish need a stronger current, some come from quiet waters including even swamps and ponds. This affects stocking too, as you don't want extremes at either end of this, since one or more likely both will be harmed. That is the primary factor.

As for the filtration, mechanical is useful to have clear water. I had a tank without a filter some years ago, and all was well except the water was never crystal clear. Mechanical filtration removes the microscopic suspended particulates and you have crystal clear water. "Clean" water is different, this we can achieve with live plants, biological filtration, and sometimes when necessary chemical filtration. Biological filtration should not be encouraged with live plants, because it is competing. I had simple sponge filters in all my tanks up to and including 40 gallons. The larger tanks, a 70g, 90g and 115g had canisters. I do not like HOB because they are less controllable. And back in the 1980's when I was away once the power went out and when it came back on (I was not home yet) the HOB motor burn out. Lucky there wasn't a fire. But it put me off HOB's, though I'm sure this could occur with other filters. But not canister nor sponges.

The fish you intend need plants, especially floating. That minimizes the biological filtration. Cories like a bit of current, so provided you can provide this, go with the Penn Plax. I'm assuming this is a canister. Can you adjust the flow? Another trick is to have the filter return at one rear corner, aimed down the tank to the opposite wall. Another trick is placing a heavy chunk of wood vertically so the filter is aimed into this, and it dissipates with less direct current. Lots of options.

The surface disturbance is important for the gas exchange, day and night. You don't want to drive out all the CO2 that plants need during daylight, but at night you don't want the CO2 building to extremes.

Thank you so much,what floating plants would yourecommend? I currently have dwarf hairgrass, anubius, corkscrew, and elodea in the tank

 

[BettaFishGirl]

Thank you so much,what floating plants would yourecommend? I currently have dwarf hairgrass, anubius, corkscrew, and elodea in the tank

Easy floating plants to care for are frogbit, salvinia, red root floaters, and giant duckweed. You can get regular duckweed but it spreads really fast and can become an annoyance. But, if you want a very fast spreading plant, go for it.

 

[Byron]

In addition to the above, there is also Water Sprite and Water Lettuce. Some stem plants do well left floating.

 

[BettaFishGirl]

Some stem plants do well left floating.

My pearlweed does really well floating.