South America River Basin Project

Undawada

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Hello All.

I made up my mind to make an South American River Basin aquarium for my very own.
I started this thread to get advice from people who know better than I do what I'm about to get into.

First I must point out that I am on a budget. I will keep a running tally of what this is costing me. This will serve no purpose other than to provide future fishkeepers an idea of what the expenditures are expected to be.

I have dual filters, the canister to handle the majority of the bioload and an aquaclear for mechanical filtration, easy addition of peat or other media and redundancy in case the canister breaks suddenly.

I also have more heaters than I need, this is to raise the temperature quickly and evenly after a water change, and also for redundancy in case one breaks.

Equipment
  • Hagen tank (48" x 20" x 18") (that's 74.81 USG, 62.29 UKG, or 283.17 Litres)
  • Eheim 2217 Canister Filter
  • Aquaclear 200 Power Filter
  • 1 300 Watt heater
  • 1 350 Watt heater
Residents
  • 3 Emerald Catfish (Brochis splendens)
  • 4 Oto Catfish (Otocinclus affinis)
  • 9 Firehead Tetras (Hemigrammus bleheri)
  • 4 Orange Flash Cockatoo Cichlids (Apiistogramma cacatoides var. orange flash)
Expenditures
  • Hagen tank, stand, lights and eheim 2217 filter (used) $300.00
  • Glass top for tank $37.13
  • 50' python (used) $45.00
  • 9 Hemigramus bleheri $39.95
  • 4 Apistogramma cacatoides $19.50
  • 2 bags of play sand $12.58
  • 2 Clay Pots $1.77
  • 3 pieces of driftwood $35.40
Before I started, I had a spare Aquaclear 200 filter, 350 Watt Heater, 4 Oto Catfish (Otocinclus affinis) and 3 Emerald Catfish (Brochis splendens)
 
I found an interesting page on Blackwater Biotopes here.

The conditions closely mimmick my water chemistry. The subdued lighting speaks to me in a language I understand (read: cheaper), as well as making co2 probably unneccesary.

Does anyone else have a blackwater setup?
 
Undawada, PM me and I'll give you names of a few products, as well as links to a couple of sites where you can buy stuff reasonably. Don't like to endorse stuff in threads - it can sound too much like advertising.
 
The first thing about most Amazonian biotopes is that for the majority of the year there are no substrate rooted aquatic plants, the murky water doesnt allow much light to penetrate which prevents them from growing and often the pH is so acidic that it burns the leaves!

There are 3 main distinct biotopes in the amazon basin, blackwater, white water and Oxbow lakes

Blackwater flows out of jungle streams and as the name suggests is heavy with tannins from rotting vegetation and fallen leaves and trees which give it the colour of strong black tea, it usually has a KH of 0 and a pH in the region of 4 which doesnt allow many plants to grow. A lot of our common aquarium fish like Discus, Angelfish, dwarf Cichlids, knife fishes and many species of Characins and catfish come from this biotope which makes it one of the easiest biotopes to recreate.
A blackwater biotope tank will have a silver sand (play sand) substrate and will decorated with many pieces of bogwood which should be arranged to replicate broken tree stems at the back of the aquarium and fallen twigs and branches in the front, taller pieces can have mossy plants such as Riccia (or java moss if riccia is unavailable) tied to them near the waters surface. Floating plants such as water lettuce (Pistia stratiotes) and Salvina can also be used if desired. The water should be stained a golden brown colour through the use of peat filtration and/or a blackwater tonic to acheive a natural look. Ideally the water in the tank should be soft and acidic with a pH of 6 and a KH of 3-5, this is higher than in nature but a lot more stable for a captive enviroment.
For a variation on a blackwater biotope you can have a leaf litter zone biotope which is the same but has a 3 inch layer of beech or oak leaves used as a substrate rather than silver sand. Collect the leaves in autumn/fall and store them in a dry place until needed, before adding them to the aquarium boil them for around 10 minutes to ensure they sink and any bugs they may be carrying are dead.

White water (which incedently has nothing to do with the white water you might go rafting on) flows from mountain streams and carries huge ammounts of sediments with it which give it its milky coffee colour. The pH here is usually closer to 7 and the KH around 5 from the mineral deposits washed from the mountains. Again few substrate rooted plants can grow here as little light can penetrate the murky water. Many of the Loricarid species and larger catfish and Characins found in the hobby come from this habitat.
To recreate a white water biotope again use a silver sand substrate and pieces of bogwood arranged as they would be if they had been washed down by the current but this time rounded pebbles and river cobbles can be added as decor too as these would be washed down off of the mountain sides by the flow, the current in this type of habbitat is usually quite strong so a couple of decent sized powerheads placed at one end of the tank will replicate this.

Oxbow lakes are formed when flood waters receed at the end of the rainy season leaving large inland waterholes rich in plant and animal life. Typically the water will be gin clear as the lack of current allows sediments to settle and there is not as much tannin present as in the blackwater rivers and streams. The species present here are very diverse and changes constantly but would typically be made up of mainly Cichlids and Characins.
To replicate a oxbow lake again use a silver sand substrate and decorate with pieces of bogwood arranged as they would be found had they fallen from trees above the tank. The tank can be densly planted making use mainly of Echinodorus plants (Amazon swords) and floating plants such as water lettuce and Salvinia. The pH should be neutral and the KH 5-7 though water chemistry isnt vital here.

There is a fourth Amazon biotope which is only present during the rainy season which is the flooded forest biotope recreating when the flood waters rise well into the jungle flooding many miles of forest and covering all the plants and trees that grow there. This one is more difficult to replicate naturally as the plants are terrestial ones which die and rot after being submerged for long periods but good quality silk plants which look like ferns can be used instead, java fern could also be used but it would not strictly be a biotope then. Decorate with tall upright pieces of bogwood at varying lengths allowing some to rise out of the waters surface and use shorter ones in the foreground to look like snapped off stumps of smaller shrub like plants. The substrate should be of a silver sand and peat mix. Fish from any part of the Amazon can be found here feasting on the rich pickings caught by the rising water.
 
Blimey CFC. Sounds like you've done this before. Excellent info.

Ashley
 
yeah greta stuff cfc i will be watching this thread as i want to do just the same thing! i think i will be going for the ox bow lake
 
*Update*

Bid on a two canister filters on ebay, hopefully I win one...
I bid on an eheim 2215 and a magnum 350.

Still looking for a tank, 200 litres minimum (50 gal US approx). If anyone is selling one near Ottawa, Ontario let me know :)
 
Thank you VERY much for that info, CFC... it helps me more than you'd know.
 
dark substrate and amazon swords. if you have cories then dark sand might be good. since cories prefer sand. taheshian moon sand is the only dark sand i know of and it's pricey.

you could also try the eco substrate which is black and is soaked in black water. it also might be good to get dark background and sides.

as far as lighting goes. swords dont require a ton of light to grow but the deal with a 55 gallon is the depth of the tank. fluorescent light has trouble getting to the bottom so if you had smaller plants at the bottom with weaker lights they might struggle. the most effective lights for reaching depth are metal hailide but they are like 300 bucks. i use compact fluorecents which are a little more expensive than regular fluorescents but alot more powerful.

you also mentioned co2. there is no point using co2 if you dont have proper lighting.
 
If you can find a large tank with out a hood, you can there fore have peices of wood protruding out from the water and floating plants. The lights would have to be installed around the tank on the wall or hanging from the celing though...
 
Hanging lights from walls or the ceiling is out of the question, as I live in rented space.

The topless idea sounds great, but I don't think it will work for that reason.

Don't cories jump? My brochis splendens always jump out of the water for gulps of air...
 
I'm not sure. Hatchet fish are from SA and they jump! You could always not fill your tank all the way up inorder to have the floating plants. BTW, not all of the rivers/streams in SA are fast flowing- the slower ones are where you find the otocinclus', angels and hatchets, neons and glowlights.
 
Update, I've been outbid on one of my canisters. I'm going to wait before I bid again.

I got some advice from some people in chat that I've bid too early. Rats! Live and learn, I guess.

I hope I get the eheim 2215 I've got a bid on.

Still looking ...
 
lol only ever bid at the last moment - and only bid the highest amount that you are willing to pay. Always make it uneven number such as $5.31
If possible, have two screens open at the same time when the bidding comes to an end. One screen with your bid amount and ready to hit the button to bid. The other screen to watch and refresh what is going on. And if you really really want something badly, go to http://www.auctionsniper.com/
Good luck !
 
any idea waht kind of tnak you might be going for yet unawanda, i mean from those cfc outlined? be ncie to how yours delvops along side mine
 

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