Should I Go No Co2?

[Phage]

Hello I would like some suggestions on what to do. I am thinking of going non-CO2 because I dislike having to refill my tank every 2-3 months and I hate when the power goes out. The CO2 tank leaks when the power goes out because the solenoid isn't working properly. That happens or I screw on the regulator wrong. Also I've had my diffuser break in my hand (no idea how) and now I have glass in my hand after 6 months lol. Which is a real turn off.

Anyway, my tank is looking sorry right now and I am totally up for improvements.
I've had mopani wood in my tank and it ALWAYS grew BBA algae on it which is a shame because I think wood is beautiful. So I took it out. Maybe my water flow direction was/is wrong. I still have the BBA algae slowly growing on the filter intake and powerhead. I still get algae on the glass, which is annoying as well. But it is not very bad. No algae grows on the plants.

Right now I have a HOB filter and a powerhead. I am going to buy a canister filter soon. Will update with current gph output when I figure it out.
T5 lighting, 56W x2 12pm-7pm on a timer.
Fluorite substrate.
EI ferts.
3bps co2 pressurized.

Plants:
Nymphaea zenkeri
Cryptocoryne wendtii green and brown
Eleocharis parvula. Mine looks horrible. It is in patches because it doesn't seem to fill in with runners
Cryptocoryne crispatula var. balansae
Moss, I forget which type. Maybe taiwan or willow. Made a moss wall.
Jungle Vallis

Fish: Danio kyathit, harlequin rasbora, neon tetra. My otos keep disappearing Any suggestions on a replacement fish for otos?

So my point is, would you guys please suggest some improvements to the whole system? My tank looks so bare and I hate cleaning algae.

Thanks

 

[BigIan]

for me i`d go no c02, i had exactly the same problem as you, and i really doubt i will go to a c02 setup again on my main tank.
besides that most of the plants you mention will cope quite will in any conditions, and don`t need any special attention.

 

[SuperColey1]

Lol. you gave us every detail of the tank except........for the tank itself Would be useful.

And a picture too would help.

I get BBA in my tank always have done but minimal. only on bare wood pieces, never on any equipment.

If you are getting algae on all the items on the peripherie of the tank yet all the plants are clean, then I would suggest flow/circulation is the key problem.

As an example before I finally sorted my flow out (when I began doing incredible high plant mass scapes) this was the rear wall of the tank:

With the change of style and increase in plant mass came different issues in that circulation was much more critical.

Notice the algae is only in the centre of the pain and not the corners. The corners will have had quite some distubance from the water. The centre not too much.

Also notice follows the outline of the plants that are normally there. Anything below the plant level is fine.

Going CO2 will more than likely mean ditching the lights you have but until we know the tank size we can't answer that

AC

 

[Phage]

Oh oops! It is a 55USG.

Kinda sad looking. Lol.
How do I get that sticker thermometer off the front?

 

[Phage]

Anyone?
Also do I need to lower the lighting?

 

[SuperColey1]

Not to sound too OTT but your tank has not got many plants in it. For what is there CO2 is wasting money.

Also if you have been doing CO2 for a while then I would've expected the plants you have to have grown a lot more than they have.

YES the light needs dropping. It is way too much for non CO2 and even with CO2 it is too much for the amount of plants you have.

AC

 

[Phage]

It had a bunch more but I cleaned it the other day. I was away for two months and my sister doesn't know how to properly care for a planted tank. I am trying to figure out if I want to stay with co2 or go non co2 before I buy more plants.
This was before I left

How much should I lower it to if I stop co2?
Will my current plants do well with lower light?
What other plants should I add with no co2 and lower light?

Thanks

 

[SuperColey1]

going for 1WPG so 1 tube that yoiu currently have or 2 x T8.

All the plants in the picture above (not the prior to problem one) are fine with the exception of the grass. I have no idea on that. Never used it so someone else can advise on its suitability but the others are fine for lower light and non CO2.

AC

 

[Phage]

Thank you AC for your help

So I can just take out one tube then and use my current light. Does it matter what color it is? How long of a lighting period?
When my co2 runs out I think I will try a non co2 tank and see how it works. Make a crypt wendtii farm to cover the gravel. Maybe buy more vals and some java ferns and try wood again.
What would I use for fertilization on non co2? Same stuff I use now?

 

[SuperColey1]

Thank you AC for your help

So I can just take out one tube then and use my current light. Does it matter what color it is? How long of a lighting period?

Depends on your taste. If you like a pinkish tank then go for the lower K 4000ish. If you like a greenish tank then go for the higher K 7000ish. If you like the whitish tank then go for the 5500 area.

Your choice. That is if your light unit will work with a tube removed.

When my co2 runs out I think I will try a non co2 tank and see how it works. Make a crypt wendtii farm to cover the gravel. Maybe buy more vals and some java ferns and try wood again.
What would I use for fertilization on non co2? Same stuff I use now?
[/quote

Yes same stuff, that is if it needs any extra after fish waste and food.

AC