Navarre
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Deciding on what tank to buy is obviously the first major decision in the startup of your nano reef. In general, many of the same principles apply as in a FW tank. However, if you are 'going nano', we are staying under 30 gallons. Basic principles apply here:
1) the smaller the tank, the smaller the margin for error and the more limited we are with respects to adding livestock and particular corals. It's easier to crash a smaller tank.
2) the shallower the tank, the better penetration of lighting if you plan on keeping animals that require high light. Eg, a 20 gallon high (or 20H) may not be as coral friendly as a 20 gallon long (20L)
3) added width gives a little more freedom for aquascaping
4) the same principles apply whether you choose acrylic or glass. Acrylic scratches easier buy may be lighter and easier to drill. Most people prefer glass.
5) If you are going to drill the tank for a sump, keep in mind the shape and material.
Standard tank sizes include 10 , 15, 20, 29 and 30 gallon tanks. There are some systems out there that come as 'complete' including JBJ's NancoCube, CurrentUSA's AquaPod and Eclipse Systems. However, these 'reef ready' tanks are not truly complete in that some have inadequate lighting, circulation or can be difficult to upgrade (if you do, be sure you know the manufacturers warranty). On the other hand, if you are not big on skills, these tanks may be the best choice for you. Just a few examples of tank choices include:
1) AGA's, short for All-Glass Aquariums: rectangular, solid and offer the most flexiblity for equiping
2) Bowfronts: usually are deeper tanks
3) Cubes: Oceanic's 30G
4) 'Complete': JBJ's NanoCube, CurrentUSA's AquaPod, Eclipse Systems (lighting is hard to upgrade)
5) Acrylic: SeaClear
After choosing your system, pick a stand that will support the weight of your tank and be sure it will be placed on an area of the floor that can support it. Most houses won't have a problem with a nano tank. Remember, and empty 30G nano tank will contain about 240 lbs of SW.
Tank thoughts:
1) Avoid placing the tank in direct sunlight, near heat vents, etc
2) Buy a stand that is solid, will support the weight and survive the SALT WATER spills
3) Some recommend a layer of cork or padding between the tank and the aquarium
4)LEVEL THE TANK
5) Use drip loops and don't leave surge protectors on the floor. You should have a GFCI outlet near the tank to cut of the power is there is a leak or short
6) Leave room on all sides for access to the tank if needed
7) Remember, the tank contains SW now. If you are coming over from FW, salt is corrosive (is this on you parkay floors?). Will you need floor protection?
Prior to filling your tank, you will want to rinse the tank out. DO NOT USE ANY DETERGENTS OR CLEANERS. Any residual will kill your inhabitants. Use white vinegar to get off adhesives or stuck on dirt and rinse with tap water. Always use a damp cloth on the outside to wipe off salt buildup. Don't use chemical cleaners near the tank.
After cleaning, the most important step not to skip is to test it for leaks. Many of us skip this step, however, it can be the most crucial mistake in a marine system since there is so much more to lose if your tank fails. Pumps, temp probes, seams, must all be working and competent. You can test with tap water. That way, if you DO have a leak, you won't end up with saltwater on your floor. Empty out the tap water after a successful test run. For your initial setup, you can mix your first SW in the new tank. That way, if you DO have a leak, you won't end up with saltwater on your floor .
Prior to filling, you will want to rinse the tank out. DO NOT USE ANY DETERGENTS OR CLEANERS. Any residual will kill your inhabitants. Use white vinegar to get off adhesives or stuck on dirt and rinse with tap water. Always use a damp cloth on the outside to wipe off salt buildup. Don't use chemical cleaners near the tank.
1) the smaller the tank, the smaller the margin for error and the more limited we are with respects to adding livestock and particular corals. It's easier to crash a smaller tank.
2) the shallower the tank, the better penetration of lighting if you plan on keeping animals that require high light. Eg, a 20 gallon high (or 20H) may not be as coral friendly as a 20 gallon long (20L)
3) added width gives a little more freedom for aquascaping
4) the same principles apply whether you choose acrylic or glass. Acrylic scratches easier buy may be lighter and easier to drill. Most people prefer glass.
5) If you are going to drill the tank for a sump, keep in mind the shape and material.
Standard tank sizes include 10 , 15, 20, 29 and 30 gallon tanks. There are some systems out there that come as 'complete' including JBJ's NancoCube, CurrentUSA's AquaPod and Eclipse Systems. However, these 'reef ready' tanks are not truly complete in that some have inadequate lighting, circulation or can be difficult to upgrade (if you do, be sure you know the manufacturers warranty). On the other hand, if you are not big on skills, these tanks may be the best choice for you. Just a few examples of tank choices include:
1) AGA's, short for All-Glass Aquariums: rectangular, solid and offer the most flexiblity for equiping
2) Bowfronts: usually are deeper tanks
3) Cubes: Oceanic's 30G
4) 'Complete': JBJ's NanoCube, CurrentUSA's AquaPod, Eclipse Systems (lighting is hard to upgrade)
5) Acrylic: SeaClear
After choosing your system, pick a stand that will support the weight of your tank and be sure it will be placed on an area of the floor that can support it. Most houses won't have a problem with a nano tank. Remember, and empty 30G nano tank will contain about 240 lbs of SW.
Tank thoughts:
1) Avoid placing the tank in direct sunlight, near heat vents, etc
2) Buy a stand that is solid, will support the weight and survive the SALT WATER spills
3) Some recommend a layer of cork or padding between the tank and the aquarium
4)LEVEL THE TANK
5) Use drip loops and don't leave surge protectors on the floor. You should have a GFCI outlet near the tank to cut of the power is there is a leak or short
6) Leave room on all sides for access to the tank if needed
7) Remember, the tank contains SW now. If you are coming over from FW, salt is corrosive (is this on you parkay floors?). Will you need floor protection?
Prior to filling your tank, you will want to rinse the tank out. DO NOT USE ANY DETERGENTS OR CLEANERS. Any residual will kill your inhabitants. Use white vinegar to get off adhesives or stuck on dirt and rinse with tap water. Always use a damp cloth on the outside to wipe off salt buildup. Don't use chemical cleaners near the tank.
After cleaning, the most important step not to skip is to test it for leaks. Many of us skip this step, however, it can be the most crucial mistake in a marine system since there is so much more to lose if your tank fails. Pumps, temp probes, seams, must all be working and competent. You can test with tap water. That way, if you DO have a leak, you won't end up with saltwater on your floor. Empty out the tap water after a successful test run. For your initial setup, you can mix your first SW in the new tank. That way, if you DO have a leak, you won't end up with saltwater on your floor .
Prior to filling, you will want to rinse the tank out. DO NOT USE ANY DETERGENTS OR CLEANERS. Any residual will kill your inhabitants. Use white vinegar to get off adhesives or stuck on dirt and rinse with tap water. Always use a damp cloth on the outside to wipe off salt buildup. Don't use chemical cleaners near the tank.
