See through fish?

[Alexis_loredo]

I have a 75 gal tank and at one point had 2 angel fish, two Dalmatian mollies, one golden panda molly, one silver molly, 4 black tetras, 4 red wags, and two red tail tinfoil barbs. I took all the fish out of the tank and put them in quarantine about two months ago because they had ich. The tinfoil barbs stayed in the tank a bit longer since they started to nip at the other fish and finally got their own tank about 3 weeks ago. And today noticed a few baby fish on the main tank and am not sure which fish had any babies since they’re completely see through and none of the fish are see through. I managed to get a few pictures of the baby fish. I think they might be the red tailed tinfoil barbs but I’m not too sure.

 

[FishGuest5123]

Not sure but they should color up as they mature. In the future, I would treat all fish in the main tank. The tank needs to be treated for ich spores that fell in the substrate anyway.

 

[Alexis_loredo]

Not sure but they should color up as they mature. In the future, I would treat all fish in the main tank. The tank needs to be treated for ich spores that fell in the substrate anyway.

I have been treating the main tank as well anyways. I have a separate tank for quarantine so that I can focus more on the fish and see them better since the main tank has a lot of stuff they like to hide in and I cannot really see them. I also initially separated the from the tank because the red tailed tinfoil barbs were nipping at the other fish. But thank you for your help!

 

[Byron]

Welcome to TFF.

I agree the fry are most like the barbs. Obviously you have a male/female barb. Cyprinids will readily and easily spawn most of the time, but with the adults and other fish in the tank few eggs escape predation to hatch. If one or two eggs do hatch, it is easier for the fry to escape predation because they will swim into hiding spots, and find sufficient live micro foods to survive. Many times I have had one or two or three such fry suddenly appear at about 3/8 inch or so, from various species of characin and cyprinid.

The fin nipping is to be expected because these fish (barbs) are shoaling fish and must have a group. Six or seven is normally suggested as minimum for most species, but a few more is always better for the fish. And it can curtail fin nipping for some species. But barbs should never be combined with sedate fish like angelfish as this is a strong temptation. Barbs are naturally active fish, and this alone can annoy sedate fish.

The other issue I'll comment on is the ich. It is always advisable to treat ich simply by raising the temperature to 30C (86F) for two weeks, nothing more. Most fish can more easily handle this than they can handle any medication. And moving fish is always severe stress, and since stress is what causes the outbreak of ich in the first place, reducing/eliminating stress is a better road to recovery.

 

[Alexis_loredo]

Welcome to TFF.

I agree the fry are most like the barbs. Obviously you have a male/female barb. Cyprinids will readily and easily spawn most of the time, but with the adults and other fish in the tank few eggs escape predation to hatch. If one or two eggs do hatch, it is easier for the fry to escape predation because they will swim into hiding spots, and find sufficient live micro foods to survive. Many times I have had one or two or three such fry suddenly appear at about 3/8 inch or so, from various species of characin and cyprinid.

The fin nipping is to be expected because these fish (barbs) are shoaling fish and must have a group. Six or seven is normally suggested as minimum for most species, but a few more is always better for the fish. And it can curtail fin nipping for some species. But barbs should never be combined with sedate fish like angelfish as this is a strong temptation. Barbs are naturally active fish, and this alone can annoy sedate fish.

The other issue I'll comment on is the ich. It is always advisable to treat ich simply by raising the temperature to 30C (86F) for two weeks, nothing more. Most fish can more easily handle this than they can handle any medication. And moving fish is always severe stress, and since stress is what causes the outbreak of ich in the first place, reducing/eliminating stress is a better road to recovery.

As of right now I’ve only been able to see three fry and the main tank has been empty for quite some time now. And we have previously had angle fish with them and they all did good but something happened in the tank and all the fish passed EXCEPT for the barbs and when we redid the tank they started nipping at all the fish.
And lastly with the ich in the tank I have it set to 86° but as soon as one fish looses all the spots the next one gets it. So that’s why the ich process is taking me some extra time and hopefully I’ll be done by if not this week next week. But what should I do if I have the baby fish in the main tank? I don’t want these fish to eat them.

 

[Lilyann]

Whether heat is the "best" and "safest" treatment for all fish when have Ich in all cases in the aquarium is debatable. ( Yes, im well aware that I will be told "the scientific community" endorses such measures in all cases, but... lets see that documentation). Ive done a lot of reading myself on this parasite: scientific journals ( I have access to journal databases with the University I am affiliated with), online sources, and recent texts on fish health such as as Edward J. Noga's Fish Disease and Treatment and none claim a monopoly on heat as the "safest and best".
I stopped using heat 10 years ago when I realized that the secondary bacteria that proliferates the site of the tissues where the parasite feeds can be just as deadly to a fish than the damage that the parasite does in itself. We also all know that bacteria spread is heat -dependent: the higher the temperature the quicker this secondary bacteria spreads in tissues.
In addition, the parasite prefers to attack the gill area: both the gill cover and just underneath this cover in gill filaments. So, in this scenario, you have a fish whose respiration is already compromised and you are going to turn up the heat? Turn up the heat when we know that a rise in temperature will bring about a reduction in oxygen availability to the fish. How is this better than a malachite green proprietary blend?
And, finally, lets not forget the increasing frequency of heat-resistance in this parasite.

OP- use an Ich medication that's active ingredient is malachite green. Follow directions as written on bottle. This outbreak would have been gone along time ago.

 

[Alexis_loredo]

Whether heat is the "best" and "safest" treatment for all fish when have Ich in all cases in the aquarium is debatable. ( Yes, im well aware that I will be told "the scientific community" endorses such measures in all cases, but... lets see that documentation). Ive done a lot of reading myself on this parasite: scientific journals ( I have access to journal databases with the University I am affiliated with), online sources, and recent texts on fish health such as as Edward J. Noga's Fish Disease and Treatment and none claim a monopoly on heat as the "safest and best".
I stopped using heat 10 years ago when I realized that the secondary bacteria that proliferates the site of the tissues where the parasite feeds can be just as deadly to a fish than the damage that the parasite does in itself. We also all know that bacteria spread is heat -dependent: the higher the temperature the quicker this secondary bacteria spreads in tissues.
In addition, the parasite prefers to attack the gill area: both the gill cover and just underneath this cover in gill filaments. So, in this scenario, you have a fish whose respiration is already compromised and you are going to turn up the heat? Turn up the heat when we know that a rise in temperature will bring about a reduction in oxygen availability to the fish. How is this better than a malachite green proprietary blend?
And, finally, lets not forget the increasing frequency of heat-resistance in this parasite.

OP- use an Ich medication that's active ingredient is malachite green. Follow directions as written on bottle. This outbreak would have been gone along time ago.

No one exactly said it’s the safest but o do have tropical fish where they prefer higher temp water where 86° is in the comfort zone. I am also using an ich medication. Before using heat I lost 4 fish when treating with just the ich medication and since the addition of heat have not lost any fish in this process. Everyone treats ich in their own way and my fish that previously had it are healthy fish with good water conditions. And the ich clears up in about 4 days when I do this process I just keep them in the tank longer to make sure the rest of the fish don’t have it and to be sure it’s gone from the water as well. Thank you.

 

[Lilyann]

No one exactly said it’s the safest but o do have tropical fish where they prefer higher temp water where 86° is in the comfort zone. I am also using an ich medication. Before using heat I lost 4 fish when treating with just the ich medication and since the addition of heat have not lost any fish in this process. Everyone treats ich in their own way and my fish that previously had it are healthy fish with good water conditions. And the ich clears up in about 4 days when I do this process I just keep them in the tank longer to make sure the rest of the fish don’t have it and to be sure it’s gone from the water as well. Thank you.

Your using high heat and medication?
Im surprised that any of your fish are still alive.
What fish do you have that 86 degrees are their comfort zone?