Seahorse From Seahorse.com

Flumpus

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Hey everybody, I've seen a few posts about seahorses on here, and it's generally greeted with warnings about difficulty and death :)

I've run across a site (seahorse.com) that sells seahorses. They claim the captive-bred seahorses they sell are very hardy, and the wild caught seahorses are the ones that are hard to keep. My wife absolutely adores seahorses, thinks they're magical, and would like to keep a pair in her 10 gallon tank. She did some research and was the one to find this site, along with this FAQ. It claims that the Zulu Lulus are very good for the beginner and are very hardy. I'm a bit skeptical, and obviously don't want to fork over $75 per animal to have them die in the first month. Does anyone have any experience with these?

This brings me to my second question... What does the 10g need to support these? Here's my initial thoughts, but please feel free to correct me and tell me I'm an idiot :)

We would get 10-12lbs of live rock, put some sort of marine filter media in her Aquaclear filter (the one rated for up to 20g, not sure the model), get a small powerhead, obviously get salt and possibly a skimmer. She has sand (just normal black sand), but would she need to get argonite sand? She doesn't want to do coral, because she wants the focus to be the seahorses. So my question is, instead of fake coral for hitching posts, what about macro algae? A shop near us has beautiful healthy looking seahorses in a tank full of macro algae. Would that work for her needs? Are there any disadvantages to using that? This brings me to my question of lighting. She has 30w bulb on there right now I think, and the tank actually gets quite a big of sun from the window it's near. Would she need any different light to support the macro algae, if in fact that's ok to use?

This is probably a loaded thread with way too many questions for any one person to take the time to answer, but I respect people's opinions here, and would like to know what yall have to say. I didn't put this in the nano reef section because no coral is involved, but if it's better suited there, feel free to move it. Thanks in advance.
 
Thanks... that answered my question about a few things, but a few still remain.

Mainly, what filter media should I use, is the macro algae ok, and does anything they say at seahorse.com sound unreasonable? It almost sounds too good to be true, saying that they're easy for beginners to keep and are very hardy, but it looked like you echoed that, at least a little bit, saying captive bred seahorses are much better than wild caught for an aquarium. Thanks.
 
Hi, sorry I didn't get back to you more in depth earlier, just been a little busy here lately.

Your ten gal tank could house 2 capensis fine but they might not breed due to it being shallow, they are a medium sized seahorse. I would personally recommend upgrading to a larger tank if you want to see any fry. This would also add more water volume and make things easier on you in terms of water parameters, etc.

Macro algaes are fine with seahorses and provide great hitching spots. They also help in exporting excess nutrients from the water.

As for filter mediums, it's up to you really. You want something that will colonise bacteria in fair numbers so as long as it has plenty of surface areas that is fine.

Sand-wise I would personally get rid of that sand and add some that will buffer the ph.

As for the lights, I dunno. It depends on how much sun the tank gets from the window and the types of algae you want. You will know if you need more once the algae is in though, if it starts looking a bit worse for wear after a week or two then there's a good chance you need more light. You are best off with a full spectrum light though, either way.

Captive bred horses are alot hardier than wild caught specimens and can be kept quite successfully by a beginner if enough time is taken to research (which you and your wife seem well on your way with rather than making an impulse buy, something that you should both be proud of).
 
Zulu's or Caps also need to be kept at a max temperature of 69 degrees.
 

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