Return to UGF

plebian

Fish Fanatic
Joined
Oct 7, 2022
Messages
170
Reaction score
139
Location
Southeast Asia

I’ve always had an appreciation for the elegant simplicity of under gravel filters (UGF). I used under gravel filters on my first two aquariums with great success. I owned both aquariums for two plus years each and never had a sick fish or cloudy water. After breaking them down, yes there was an accumulation of mulm under the filter plates, but not so much as to impede the flow of water.

When I decided I wanted another aquarium about two years ago I planned on using under gravel filtration again. Unfortunately, where I live the only UGFs available are designed for small aquariums of 20 gallons or less. Since my aquarium holds 180 gallons net and is 9 feet long, I had to go another route.

I ended up purchasing two canister filters, each rated at 1000 liters/hour. Since my tank holds approximately 600 liters net, I thought those would be perfectly adequate. I didn’t realize at the time how much less water flow there would actually be once installed, nor did I realize that filter media capacity would be wholly inadequate for proper filtration. After 6 months of operation, I decided I needed to upgrade to larger canisters.

I replaced both canister filters with filters rated at 1400 liters/hour. In addition to greater water flow, the new canisters also provided a 20% increase in filter media capacity. I fully expected the new canisters to do their job. This time around I performed some real world tests before actually installing the new filters. I was surprised to find that filter media had very little impact on water flow. Most of the reduction in water flow was due to the height to which it had to be pumped, which is reasonable when you think about it. I was somewhat disappointed to discover that the real world flow rate would only be about 600 liters/hour given the height of my aquarium. Still, I thought this would be adequate.

Six months later I was upgrading the canister filters again. This time I replaced the existing filters with filters rated at 2000 liters/hour with an additional 25% increase in filter media capacity. This upgrade had more to do with filter media capacity that water flow. It remains a mystery to me why manufacturers stress flow rates over media capacity, since the latter is so much more important.

In any case, once the filters became established, I finally achieved the level of water quality I was expecting. Unfortunately, a short time afterwards one of the canisters developed a leak. I woke up one morning to find the aquarium had lost about 20% of its volume. It could have been worse. I was fortunate to have tile floors instead of wood or carpeted floors. I decided to revisit the possibility of replacing the canister filters with UGFs, since UGFs cannot leak.

After some research, I discovered it was possible to assemble a larger filter plate from sectional components designed to be assembled according to need. Unfortunately, further research revealed that the design of these components would result in a very inefficient final product. I decided if I wanted a proper UGF I would need to fabricate it myself.

I purchased some acrylic sheets and some PVC pipe and went to work. I’ve attached a photo of the final product.

I decided I would build two filter plates, each approximately 17” x 34”. I would place one at each end of the aquarium leaving a roughly equal amount of unfiltered space between them. This gives me the flexibility to replace the filters one at a time so as to minimize the impact on biofiltration, should I ever decide to do so.

To maximize the effectiveness of any UGF, you need to minimize the size of the gravel you place on top of it. The smallest I was able to make the slots in the filter plate was 2 millimeters, so any gravel used would have to be larger than that. Unfortunately, the gravel I had populated my aquarium with was 2-2.5 millimeters in size so I had to replace it with slightly larger gravel (3-5 millimeters).

I installed the UGFs one at a time, several weeks apart, to assure the gravel hosted sufficiently large numbers of bacteria to accommodate the existing bioload. In my previous aquariums, I used air pumps to power the lift tubes on the filter plates. Air pumps are relatively noisy, and I don’t really care for bubbles, so I decided to use power heads on my UGFs.

The downside with power heads is that only the largest capacity pumps come with duck bill style diffusers to direct water flow. I have no idea why this is so, since being able to direct water flow is crucial in most aquariums. Fortunately, I was able to use the duck bill diffusers from my canisters. They were not a perfect fit, but close enough that I was able to silicone them to the outlets on the power heads.

The power heads I used for the UGFs are rated at 900 liters/hour. Their actual output is equal to, if not greater than the output from the 2000 liter/hour canisters I had been using. As an aside, power consumption has been cut in half.

I expected to have to wait several weeks, if not months, for the first UGF to acquire the necessary bacteria to produce crystal clear water. It only took one week. I assumed this was because the one remaining canister filter had picked up the slack, but that was not the case. Two days after replacing the last canister, the UGFs were producing crystal clear water.

I have come across several sources reporting UGFs functioning for many years without any gravel vacuuming. I believe these sources to be reliable, so I’m going let things go and see what happens. Worst case scenario, I have to vacuum the gravel periodically, something I had to do anyway when using canister filters.

So far, so good. I have not vacuumed the gravel over the first UGF I installed for more than 3 weeks and there has been no noticeable accumulation of detritus whatsoever.
UGF.jpg
 
I like it, but as one who has dabbled… you may want to increase your lift tube… either more of them, or a larger diameter, to increase your flow… also if you are not using air to move your water… your lift tubes could be shorter… I have one running right now, with 2 power heads, one in each back corner of the tank and they sit right on the filter plates… actually the lift tubes are just the thickness of the substrate, so if the power head is removed the substrate doesn’t fall under the filter plates
 
I like it, but as one who has dabbled… you may want to increase your lift tube… either more of them, or a larger diameter, to increase your flow… also if you are not using air to move your water… your lift tubes could be shorter… I have one running right now, with 2 power heads, one in each back corner of the tank and they sit right on the filter plates… actually the lift tubes are just the thickness of the substrate, so if the power head is removed the substrate doesn’t fall under the filter plates
You seem to have missed the part about the water flow being equal to (or greater than) two canister filters rated at 2000 liters/hour. The rate of flow is more than enough. Also, I want the power heads to be as high as possible. That way they are less noticeable and I can use the output to create surface agitation for aeration.
 
I’m sure one could study the flow rate of a certain diameter lift tube, and it’s effective ability to pull water through the plate at various distances of your plate ( like placing it in the center, would be most efficient ( but who would want a lift tube in the center of your plate sections ) but there would be less flow through on the opposite corner from your lift tube… so square might be more efficient than rectangular
 
I get the surface agitation thing… I personally use 10” air bars on the ends of my tanks or you could use the smaller air type tubes to keep incorporate air into the power heads or if you didn’t mind the noise could make the smaller tubes into skimmers, though the addition of those tubes would reduce your pull through the plates
 
Sorry… didn’t mean to critique your work… just meant to say, we must be kindred spirits, as I have dabbled with ug filter designs myself

Your plate is impressive… I’ve always used a prefabricated plate and dabbled from there… once I had one that used a 1.5 inch diameter lift tube… that one was built for a salt water tank
 
Interested in the UGF for saltwater. Have one hooked up to my Fluval canister filter in my 10 gallon. Just found an old school pump that can push water into the UGF so will be upgrading the 10 gallon to a 20L with the UGF setup with the canister filter on one end and the pump on the other pushing water into the UGF instead of through it. From what I researched (couldn't find a lot of info//products) it was popular way to filter saltwater tanks and effective too.
 
I did reverse flow under gravels, when I was into the fish keeping 15-20 years ago... I think it was a pair of 55 gallons that were reverse flow... if I remember right I did one salt, & one fresh... kinda weird that the "poop" would float around the tank, ( yes I had big traditional plecos back then ) rather than being drawn to the bottom, but if used in conjunction with a traditional hang on tank filter, that sucked up floating solids, the systems worked pretty good... not saying anything about current company, but I personally think a suction under gravel filter has less "weirdness" & is more plant friendly... I think obsessive compulsive types, like reverse flow better... probably designed by someone with an open frame, that could see all the grunge under the filter plate... reverse flow sill accumulates bio film, it's just not as ugly, if you are the type that wants to see under the filter plate...
 
There is clearly some effort and thought in your UGF, did you use a drop saw and just cut the saw kerf thickness for the openings. In any case, you did a good job on it. I also like the concept of partial filter plates so that you can make incremental changes. Good luck, I would be interested in knowing how well it works in a few months and whether the flow rate and filtering ability remain good. Have you ever tried an UGF with sand, I guess that would be a USF?
 
Interested in the UGF for saltwater. Have one hooked up to my Fluval canister filter in my 10 gallon. Just found an old school pump that can push water into the UGF so will be upgrading the 10 gallon to a 20L with the UGF setup with the canister filter on one end and the pump on the other pushing water into the UGF instead of through it. From what I researched (couldn't find a lot of info//products) it was popular way to filter saltwater tanks and effective too.
You don't want an undergravel filter in a marine tank or a Rift Lake cichlid tank. The rocks cover the substrate and reduce the water flowing through the filter media.

Undergravel filters work best in tanks with minimal rocks, wood or ornaments covering the gravel. They also need to be gravel cleaned regularly and you can't do that if they are covered in things like rocks and driftwood. Even plants can restrict the area you can gravel clean.
 
There is clearly some effort and thought in your UGF, did you use a drop saw and just cut the saw kerf thickness for the openings. In any case, you did a good job on it. I also like the concept of partial filter plates so that you can make incremental changes. Good luck, I would be interested in knowing how well it works in a few months and whether the flow rate and filtering ability remain good. Have you ever tried an UGF with sand, I guess that would be a USF?
I used a handheld angle grinder to cut the slots. I'm willing to update if there's any interest. UGFs won't work with sand. You need to cover the filter plates with some type of mesh fine enough to keep the sand out and this not only reduces flow considerably, but will lead to clogging. As I said, I'm testing out reports that claim gravel vacuuming is unnecessary with a UGF. This assumes of course the aquarium isn't overstocked, which is the case for the vast majority of hobbyists.

IMO, unless your primary interest is in aquascaping for aesthetics, sand is a poor substrate. It compacts if not stirred up periodically. When stirred up it can cloud the water and damage filter motors. Also, most plants do better in fine gravel than sand. As stated, sand tends to compact make root growth more difficult. Gravel also allows a more rapid exchange of oxygen and nutrients.
 
You definitely have a steadier hand than I. I can see only minor variation in the cuts.

In regard to sand, I am neither for nor against. Currently I have both in my aquariums. In my tests I have found that sand has different properties based on the size distribution from your typical play sand that has a full range of particle sizes that leads to a more impregnatable substrate layer, to pool filter sands that have a very small range of particle size distribution, leading to a sand that has pretty good water flow rates, in addition sand filters are well used in other applications. If the grid was more of a frame for supporting some type of light weight geo-textile type material, I think you could have a under sand filter. I will say that my plants are doing better in my sieved play sand mix (all fines below .05 mm removed) than my tank with 1 - 3 mm gravel, though I cannot say the sand is the only factor as the lights and fish populations between the two tanks are quite different. Might be something to try, I have all the resources except time.
 
You definitely have a steadier hand than I. I can see only minor variation in the cuts.
It was a tedious process to be sure. Regarding your comment about plants and sand, there is another fellow on this forum who apparently has an aquarium consisting of one half sand and one half gravel. He claims that all of his plants are noticeably larger and healthier in appearance than the same plants growing in sand. I have no idea what type of sand he is using, nor do I remember the post he was replying to. The original post had nothing to do with substrate, but as is often the case here, things go off on tangent.

Personally, I have little experience with plants. I did at one time or another have anubias, valisneria, amazon sword and argentine sword growing. Although all were growing well, in spite of relatively low light conditions, hard water, and no CO2, I ended up removing all of them. They were all algae magnets and I tired of cleaning them. Upon removal, all the rooted plants displayed very healthy root growth.
 
I installed the first UGF just over 4 weeks ago. I installed the second UGF 2 weeks ago, just over 2 weeks after the first one. Initially I covered both with a bit more than 1" of 3-5mm gravel. One week after the last filter install I added a bit more gravel to bring it up closer to 1 1/2". While doing this a great deal of detritus was stirred up, which was to be expected. What was surprising was how quickly the water cleared up.

The water is now crystal clear, only 4 days later. It took my 2 large canister filters, filled with 25 ppm filter foam, 3 months to establish a microbiome sufficient to achieve that level of clarity.
 

Most reactions

Back
Top