Replacing Ballast - No Clue!

[Mebster]

EDIT: If you can help, please read from post #7 onwards. Many Thanks

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My Fluval Vicenza 180's lights would only come on for a second, then go off. Replaced lights. No luck. Thought I'd try open it up hoping for a simple starter but there's something called a ballast, which it seems I can replace bringing life into it again. I've taken some pictures of it but the model number seems to be BE-224-T5 (if that's the model number).

I've seen some ballasts on eBay but I don't know what to buy and don't want to blow my tank up. Can anyone help with some direction.

Also in terms of installation, would I more or less follow Fixing Juwel Light Bar?
Really appreciate any help.

 

[deathy]

Depends on the wattage tubes you have ie 39w x2

 

[CrazyAirborne]

you just buy a replacement ballast that matches your current one, in terms of light wattage, like said, if you have 2 39w lights, then any ballast made for 2x39 watt lights will work just fine. its really not complicated, just takes a little time.

 

[Mebster]

So with the above ballast, it lists a few different light types and wattages. The origional and replacements I got were also 2x24W. But it also says "T8 8x18W". Heard T8s are cheaper than T5s. Would 18W T8 lights actually fit and work also? Do they have the same end connectors.

On eBay the ballasts all just state one type eg. Found this: TRIDONIC DIGITAL BALLAST 2x24W, which just seems to work with my current light wattage. Just looking for someone to give me a thumbs up with this one before I buy it. Thanks.

 

[CrazyAirborne]

t8 bulbs wouldnt fit in a t5 housing, they are different sizes.

the ebay one should be fine.

 

[Mikaila31]

Make sure the new ballast has similar dimensions if you want to mount it in the same spot. The old ballast that you had could run T5s or T8s. The 24 watt T5s and 18 watt T8s are both 2' bulbs. The only issue is the endcaps where the pins on the bulb slide into. A T8 has a much larger diameter then a T5, so likely the endcaps would have to be changed. You could put in a T8 ballast and bulbs instead of a T5, both parts would likely be cheaper. The only issue is again the larger size and the amount of space you have to work with.

The only issue I see with that ballast is that I can't find where it lists the bulb type. It needs to be for the correct bulb type... I googled that ballast and it seems to be for power compacts, so I wouldn't think it would work with T5s

 

[Mebster]

Guys, thanks so much for all the info. I finally made a purchase making sure the lights and dimensions fit: 24W ballast

However the wirings are different!!! lol

My last one had 3 connectors on one end (L, N and a tree diagram ) and 7 on the other side.
The new one has 3 connectors on one end (2 squigley lines and the tree) and 8 on the other side.

I've put pictures of the two ballasts wiring diagram and hoping someone can help figure out how I wire these up. I've labeled them old and new.

 

[Mikaila31]

Well the 3 connectors on one side are for the incoming power. Since I'm in the US and not the UK things may be kinda different. I google though "L is line or hot or black wire, N is neutral or white wire". Given the new one does not have these labels I would assume it does not matter which one goes where, unless you can find some other mark that suggests positive or negative. The 'tree' symbol is your grounding wire. The other side is more straight forward. There is no real difference from your old ballast except its #4 wire use to branch into two wires is now two separate wires. You will need to cut that wire where it branches and wire it that way. Its been awhile since I wired florescent bulbs, but they are pretty forgiving. Each bulb needs 2 positive wires and two negative wires. I would assume the positive wires are 9,10,15,16 the other ones are negative. I usually wire power compacts which are basically a straight tube bent in a U shape with all 4 pins on one end. They should be the same basic setup.

 

[Mebster]

Hi, really appreciate your help and honesty but it does worry me a little about the 'Since I'm in the US and not the UK things may be kinda different' part. If this was anything else, I wouldn't worry too much but I don't want to mess around with electrical wiring if I can help it.

I read in another topic that if the ballast doesn't state a L and N then can try them either way (might be the case here???).

If I understand you correctly, looking at the diagram what you're saying is to join wires 13 and 14 from the new ballast to look similar to wire 4 in the old? I mean no disrespect here so apologise if it comes across this way but can anyone confirm this also please?

I really hope after all this, the lights work

 

[Mikaila31]

Hi, really appreciate your help and honesty but it does worry me a little about the 'Since I'm in the US and not the UK things may be kinda different' part. If this was anything else, I wouldn't worry too much but I don't want to mess around with electrical wiring if I can help it.

I read in another topic that if the ballast doesn't state a L and N then can try them either way (might be the case here???).

If I understand you correctly, looking at the diagram what you're saying is to join wires 13 and 14 from the new ballast to look similar to wire 4 in the old? I mean no disrespect here so apologise if it comes across this way but can anyone confirm this also please?

I really hope after all this, the lights work

I meant to say that I'm pretty sure you can try L and N either way, not sure if I was clear on that .

You don't join wires 13 and 14, you separate wire 4 so it stays as two wires(that is 12 and 13). In the end your wiring should look like the diagram on the new ballast.

Are the existing wires on your fixture different colors? This should help you with the wiring process. I'm assuming the new ballast is totally bare with no wires?

 

[Mebster]

You don't join wires 13 and 14, you separate wire 4 so it stays as two wires(that is 12 and 13). In the end your wiring should look like the diagram on the new ballast.

Of course. Sorry got them the wrong way round. Not joining but splitting. I don't know how I'm going to do that as the wire seems to be hard copper wire. Not something that can be split if you understand.

Are the existing wires on your fixture different colors? This should help you with the wiring process. I'm assuming the new ballast is totally bare with no wires?

Yeah the new ballast came with no wires so I need to use the existing wiring which are all coloured the same (white).

Btw, just checked out your tanks video. Awesome tank. My plants keep dyeing. I guess that might have something to do with the lighting... or lack of.

 

[Mikaila31]

You don't join wires 13 and 14, you separate wire 4 so it stays as two wires(that is 12 and 13). In the end your wiring should look like the diagram on the new ballast.

Of course. Sorry got them the wrong way round. Not joining but splitting. I don't know how I'm going to do that as the wire seems to be hard copper wire. Not something that can be split if you understand.

On the old diagram I would cut where the #4 wire Ts off. In theory you should only have to cut one of the two wires where it branches. Then wrap electrical tape around this point and you can use this original wire to save the splicing. For the wire you cut it will have to probably be spliced with another lenght of wire to reach the ballast. I know they are solid wires. Possibly copper, but all the ones I've encountered are not copper colored. Either way they are high voltage wires since a ballast kicks up the volts to 400-600v. Thats why they are normally a solid 'rod' like that instead of lots of little filaments. I've cut and spliced them before without much of an issue, wirenuts, crimps, or just twist and tape the ends together.

 

[Mebster]

On the old diagram I would cut where the #4 wire Ts off. In theory you should only have to cut one of the two wires where it branches. Then wrap electrical tape around this point and you can use this original wire to save the splicing. For the wire you cut it will have to probably be spliced with another lenght of wire to reach the ballast. I know they are solid wires. Possibly copper, but all the ones I've encountered are not copper colored. Either way they are high voltage wires since a ballast kicks up the volts to 400-600v. Thats why they are normally a solid 'rod' like that instead of lots of little filaments. I've cut and spliced them before without much of an issue, wirenuts, crimps, or just twist and tape the ends together.

I've been wondering what to do since the last message.
I totally understand what you're saying. It's just I'm very new to cutting and joining solid wires. You're right in that if I cut off one of the ends of the T's, that end will never reach where it needs to. There is this thing which joins the two wires and exits one (the T which I’ve shown a pic of) - I was wondering if there's something similar that which will allow me to extend a wire to another. Also any idea where to get the appropriate wire in the UK (eBay?)? I know that might sound like a really silly question but as I've said really unfamiliar territory for me here.

 

[Mikaila31]

The pictures help a lot. As far as the solid wire splicing goes, its not surprising that one may think that solid wires are somehow different then filament wires, however they are really no different. Pretend they are normal filament wires if that helps. I found this here, which may help you with the splicing. You can strip more then 1/2" off the ends if it makes it easier for you to splice them.

As far as needing a piece of wire to extend from the one endcap to the ballast... You can see what is available at nearby home-improvement DIY stores. As far as what type of wire you need, thats harder for me to tell you. Hopefully the UK has some rule where they are required to print information on the wires. If not it should be no difference then the ones my fixtures use, since a T5 bulb is the same in the US and UK. Every last one of my fixtures has the same rated wires(even the T8s and power compacts), they all say 600 Volt, 105* Celsius. Along with 18AWG, but this is a US measurement for wire gauge and corresponds to 1.02mm diameter. If you have any local stores that sell lighting components they should be able to help you.

BTW is that green electrical board for the lighting or is it for something else? I assumed the wires just ran underneath it, but if they actually do connect to it then things may be more complicated. Unless its some fancy on/off switch.

 

[Mebster]

The electrical board is a part of the whole system. From what I can see the power feeds into and and then it channelled to the ballast. Also it has the on/off and a +1 hour switch (I've never figured out what that does).

Thanks for your link, gives me something to go on. Will pop down local DIY store and have a look for wires this weekend.

The wires don't have any markings on them but the origional ballas you can see on post one does have a diagram of a cable on the bottom right. Says 1.5-1.5mm2