reddish otto

Does look rather red - don't know about the cory but the oto is a lot redder than any of mine. What are your water parameters including pH? Have you treated the tank with something recently? What size tank? What other occupants?
 
i just measured my ph and its kinda alkaline at around 7.5 - 8 ... is it too high for the ottos ? i only have ph and kh readings :( my kh is around 6 degrees ?
 
it looks like some sort of internal bleeding but i am not sure.
 
really?... thats not good.... how do i cure it ..... ? :(

btw i treated recently for ich and i think i have to treat again because it pops up every time the temp goes down in my area (recently we had a typhoon). i treated them for ich using malachite green a month ago


my ottos live with 2 buenos aires tetras, 2 albino corys, 2 panda corys and 2 mollies.


:(
 
The cory looks like it got cut up by some jagged rock or something.

I think this is it.( copied from emergency forum.)

Septicemia: A fairly rare to common in all tropical and coldwater fish. It is caused by bad tank conditons and is very hard to cure if not impossible. Bacterial Hemorrhagic Septicemia can be diagnosed by red streaking of the fins and body and once this disease progresses, ulcerations and body sores start to appear. There is significant loss of appetite, lethargy, loss of motor functions in the later stages of the disease.

Treatment: I recomend using Oxytetracycline Hydrochloride Powder obtained from a vet to cure this disease.

Then there is the all too common (at least I have noticed in Goldfish) Anchor Worm.

Diagnosis: The fish scrapes itself against objects, whitish-green threads hang out of the fish's skin with an inflamed area at the point of attachment.

(copied here from a web page) Anchor worms are actually crustaceans. The young are free swimming and borrow into the skin, go into the muscles and develop for several months before showing. They release eggs and die. The holes left behind are ugly and may become infected.

Treatment (copied from web page) The anchor worm is too deeply imbedded to safely remove. Treatment can best be done with a 10 to 30 minute bath in 10 mg per liter of potassium permanganate. Or treat the whole tank with 2 mg per liter, but this method is messy and dyes the water.
 
either the aformentioned disease or gill flukes. Go check out the pinned topics in the emergency section
 
ic ic ..... i should do some water changes now and improve the water quality ..... oh my oh my ..... hmm i think its kinda hard to treat ottos ... should i just rely on increasing the quality of my water ? im gonna add another filration system.. maybe another HOB filter.....
 
Since it's so pronounced around the gill area I would hazard a guess (and that's all it is) that there is something wrong with the water quality. Check for ammonia etc. Also, do you condition the water before adding it to the tank during changes? If not then you could be damaging the gills with chlorine; literally burning the gills!
How long has the tank been set up? Is it cycled?
Get a full set of tests so that you can closely monitor the quality.

WK
 
i checked the site and about the cory.. its not that red... but i do suspect the water to be the source because i kinda got busy and wasnt able to remove some dead leaves and maybe this attributed to the my poor water, i have changed my water partially and removed everything that is decaying (yellow leaves, brown leaves) and sucked up some grime from my gravel, i did all of those the other day and so far the reddish signs on my ottos are starting to subside.. i hope permanently. im gonna purchase another filter and hook it up later..

btw i leave my water 24hrs with anti chlorine before using it on my tank :( and sadly i cant afford to purchase complete test kits yet :p they are toooo expensive here :)
 

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