i have a 2 foot jewel record 60 but have not had much luck breeding my sterbai, water quality is great, i feed them live + frozen food almost daily(bloodworm and brineshrimp), they are from 1.5'' to 2+'' body length, i have 14 of them 4 wild caught, a sand substrate and some plants, give them 40% water change every 4 days in RO water (local ph about kinda gone off track as my friends tank broke so i got alot of cardinal and ember tetra in there at the moment. so want to slowly move the sterbai into a dedicated tank for breeding. what size tank, fiter etc do you breeders recomend? want to move sterbais instead of others because this tank looks great with so many plants at the mo. i have about £100 pound to spend but allready have sand and heater
Recomend Good Sterbai Breeding Setup?
- Thread starter bigstinka
- Start date
jayjay
The BE-Team Fighting For Betta Extermination
A 10-15g would probably work, I know sp00ky has his groups in 5g's. Just get a strong filter. Clone your tank to the new tank add the cories, kept feeding well, (White worms are great to get more eggs). Then every few days do a water change with cold water water of about 10c. They should spawn after the water change.
Sp00ky
Moved On
what he said...
LOL....
btw, where would one acquire some of these white worms and black worms that inchworm keeps speaking of??
LOL....
btw, where would one acquire some of these white worms and black worms that inchworm keeps speaking of??
Bloo
~ I learn something new ~ ~~~~ every day ~~~~
Speak to BigC - he should either be able to supply some or at least point you in the right direction.
Failing that - sometimes eBay.
jayjay
The BE-Team Fighting For Betta Extermination
White worms unsure but here for blackworms second down on the right.
Hi bigstinka 
I've bred C. sterbai and found that they don't breed as young as the C. aeneus bronze or albino or C. paleatus do. If yours aren't breeding, perhaps they are just not ready yet. This is not unusual in corys.
They are not particularly difficult to breed, when they are mature, but I found that they do take a bit of encouragement. I breed my corys in 10 gallon tanks and when I get a good sized batch, I move the parents out, clean up the tank so it is bare bottom, and raise the young there until they are big enough to move up to a grow out tank. This reduces the loss that happens when you transfer the eggs.
Since the sterbai are warm water fish, keep their temperature of their breeding tank up around 80 degrees F. while you are conditioning them. Then when you want to cool the water, you can do it gently by turning off the heater for a while. Don't let it drop more than 5 degrees or so.
I've also found that they respond well if you agitate the water a bit at this time. They were one of the first corys I bred and while I was experimenting with it I noticed that they became quite excited when I did water changes, so I spent an entire evening dipping water up in a container and pouring it back into the tank. They loved it and spawned the following day. (I also unplugged the heater.) I don't know if it was the agitation itself or if it was the added oxygenation that resulted, but it worked for me that time. It's something you might try anyway. Perhaps an airstone would work as well.
Corys spawn well when they are in large groups and sometimes more than one female will be laying eggs, so if you want to keep all your sterbai together, you would need a tank larger than the 10 gallons I use. A 20 gallon or larger would be better.
I've bred C. sterbai and found that they don't breed as young as the C. aeneus bronze or albino or C. paleatus do. If yours aren't breeding, perhaps they are just not ready yet. This is not unusual in corys.
They are not particularly difficult to breed, when they are mature, but I found that they do take a bit of encouragement. I breed my corys in 10 gallon tanks and when I get a good sized batch, I move the parents out, clean up the tank so it is bare bottom, and raise the young there until they are big enough to move up to a grow out tank. This reduces the loss that happens when you transfer the eggs.
Since the sterbai are warm water fish, keep their temperature of their breeding tank up around 80 degrees F. while you are conditioning them. Then when you want to cool the water, you can do it gently by turning off the heater for a while. Don't let it drop more than 5 degrees or so.
I've also found that they respond well if you agitate the water a bit at this time. They were one of the first corys I bred and while I was experimenting with it I noticed that they became quite excited when I did water changes, so I spent an entire evening dipping water up in a container and pouring it back into the tank. They loved it and spawned the following day. (I also unplugged the heater.) I don't know if it was the agitation itself or if it was the added oxygenation that resulted, but it worked for me that time. It's something you might try anyway. Perhaps an airstone would work as well.
Corys spawn well when they are in large groups and sometimes more than one female will be laying eggs, so if you want to keep all your sterbai together, you would need a tank larger than the 10 gallons I use. A 20 gallon or larger would be better.
I see you already have a link for them, but I might suggest that you and bigstinka get in touch with BigC to look into starting microworm cultures to feed the fry. He's a long time member of TFF and a good source of them and other foods in the UK.
http
/www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=108516Sp00ky
Moved On
ohhh microworms.. yeah i got loads of those on the go already. Just never heard of them called white worms LOL
im not trying to teach you to suck eggs here mate, but i beleive it will have been because in the wild, they spwan when it rains. This also explains why they spawn when the temp drops.... and the disturbance of the water means its time to get jiggy
heheh
im not trying to teach you to suck eggs here mate, but i beleive it will have been because in the wild, they spwan when it rains. This also explains why they spawn when the temp drops.... and the disturbance of the water means its time to get jiggy
heheh
jayjay
The BE-Team Fighting For Betta Extermination
Well really you should have surface aggitation anyway to get oxygen in the water, my filters outlet is about the surface to creat loads of 'ripples' on teh surface.
In the warm weather that wouldn't make much difference, my heaters haven't been on for a while now.
A water change of 5c water even on a 30c tank at a 50% change wouldn't drop the temperature unexceptable amounts only a few degrees.
Airstone make little to no difference to oxygen levels or water movement IME.
White worms are different to micro worms sp00ky
they are bigger have a little look around for some information on them.I think white worms are something else. It's not a kind of food I can buy locally so I haven't looked into them. You might be able to get a supply of love bloodworms from a source near you in the UK, and if live food is indeed better for conditioning (which it might not necessarily be) they should work as well as the blackworms.
It's more than that, Sp00ky. It's not just a storm that triggers them, it's the accompnaying influx of clean and cooler water that runs down from the mountains to fill the streams during the rainy season. This takes more than a few minutes and is why I prefer to gradually lower the temperature rather than just dump in some very cold water.
I love to watch them swim against the current when I do water changes using a python, Their little pectoral fins go a mile a minute and they look so determined not to be swept away. Although they are often so sedate, they can be very strong swimmers when they need to be.
jayjay
The BE-Team Fighting For Betta Extermination
Best foods for conditioning adult fish are a good quality regular food, blackworms, bloodworms, white worms and most other live/frozen foods. It doesn't matter if the food is live or frozen really as there is no difference except one is safer (the frozen) and the other gives the fish something to do other than sit and wait for food they can forage and swim after it. Best fry foods for large (when first hatched) fry are BBS, MW and a good quality flake if the fish will take it.
Tropical weather is dominated by the movement of the tropical rain belt, which oscillates from the northern to the southern tropics over the course of the year.
The tropical rain belt lies in the southern hemisphere roughly from October to March, and during this time the southern tropics experience a wet season, in which rain is common. Typically, days start off hot and sunny, with humidity building during the day and culminating in large thunderstorms and torrential rain in the afternoon or evening. From April to September, the rain belt lies in the northern hemisphere, and the northern tropics experience their wet season.
Doesn't seem to happen to gradually to me.
Tropical weather is dominated by the movement of the tropical rain belt, which oscillates from the northern to the southern tropics over the course of the year.
The tropical rain belt lies in the southern hemisphere roughly from October to March, and during this time the southern tropics experience a wet season, in which rain is common. Typically, days start off hot and sunny, with humidity building during the day and culminating in large thunderstorms and torrential rain in the afternoon or evening. From April to September, the rain belt lies in the northern hemisphere, and the northern tropics experience their wet season.
Doesn't seem to happen to gradually to me.
Sp00ky
Moved On
ahhh right. will look into them then. the frozen bloodworm seems to work well for me at the moment, but always open to other food sources. I buy a big slab here in the UK for £15 !! lasts AGES!! LOL
It's more than that, Sp00ky. It's not just a storm that triggers them, it's the accompnaying influx of clean and cooler water that runs down from the mountains to fill the streams during the rainy season. This takes more than a few minutes and is why I prefer to gradually lower the temperature rather than just dump in some very cold water.
I love to watch them swim against the current when I do water changes using a python, Their little pectoral fins go a mile a minute and they look so determined not to be swept away. Although they are often so sedate, they can be very strong swimmers when they need to be.
[/quote]
cool... will try that when i get my other tanks.
Hi Sp00ky
The frozen bloodworms should be fine and I often use them myself. They cost about $10 for a one pound slab here in the US, which is more than I have to pay for meat that I eat myself.
Live blackworms or tubifex cost even more.
What I don't like about them is that when you defrost them, much of the nutrient rich blood flows out of them and is discarded. When I feed live foods they are intact and healthy and I just feel that they are getting a better meal.
The blackworms sold in the US are farm raised and healthy. They must be washed out every day to keep them that way, so to insure their quality, they should be purchased from a reliable source only. If this cannot be done, the frozen bloodworms are by far the better choice.
The frozen bloodworms should be fine and I often use them myself. They cost about $10 for a one pound slab here in the US, which is more than I have to pay for meat that I eat myself.
Live blackworms or tubifex cost even more.What I don't like about them is that when you defrost them, much of the nutrient rich blood flows out of them and is discarded. When I feed live foods they are intact and healthy and I just feel that they are getting a better meal.
The blackworms sold in the US are farm raised and healthy. They must be washed out every day to keep them that way, so to insure their quality, they should be purchased from a reliable source only. If this cannot be done, the frozen bloodworms are by far the better choice.
jayjay
The BE-Team Fighting For Betta Extermination
Info on white worms and one on microworms
Bloodworm are easy to culture yourself just leave a bucket of water in your garden and what for the midges to lay them. Blackworms are more tricky if you have a pond you can find them in filter wool on pond filter then you take them from there are culture them from that.
Bloodworm are easy to culture yourself just leave a bucket of water in your garden and what for the midges to lay them. Blackworms are more tricky if you have a pond you can find them in filter wool on pond filter then you take them from there are culture them from that.
TwoTankAmin
Fish Connoisseur
It is more the barometric pressure change that precede/accompany the rains than the rain itself that helps to trigger spawning. I have always used a simple method for spawning my sterbais and many other fish as well.
First, do not do any water changes, let the water get a bit "dirty" and you can even allow water levels to drop some. Then condition by feeding high protein foods heavily. Live worms such as black worms or red worms work great, but I have also had success using frozen blood worms.
Keep an eye on the weather reports and when you see a storm coming time a big water change to coincide with it. While many say the water change should be with colder water, my experience has been this is really not essential. It is more the going from water with higher TDS to much cleaner water that is effective IMO, although using colder water may also help. I use a sprinkler type head on the hose I use for refilling tanks and I think this also helps as it simulates the "sound" of rain.
As mentioned sterbais need to have some size before they are mature enough to spawn. It is also important to have more males than females for optimal spawning. The females can produce way more eggs than a single male can fertilize.
With sterbais getting fry is easier than raising them. They need good regular feedings and especially clean water and a constant temp.
First, do not do any water changes, let the water get a bit "dirty" and you can even allow water levels to drop some. Then condition by feeding high protein foods heavily. Live worms such as black worms or red worms work great, but I have also had success using frozen blood worms.
Keep an eye on the weather reports and when you see a storm coming time a big water change to coincide with it. While many say the water change should be with colder water, my experience has been this is really not essential. It is more the going from water with higher TDS to much cleaner water that is effective IMO, although using colder water may also help. I use a sprinkler type head on the hose I use for refilling tanks and I think this also helps as it simulates the "sound" of rain.
As mentioned sterbais need to have some size before they are mature enough to spawn. It is also important to have more males than females for optimal spawning. The females can produce way more eggs than a single male can fertilize.
With sterbais getting fry is easier than raising them. They need good regular feedings and especially clean water and a constant temp.
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