Quick I Need Help Asap

[fish_keeper2]

help plz!!!!! i just got home and my clownfish is covered in white spots. it looks like ick which i have battle many times in my FW tanks. I need to know quick how to treat it in a marine tank. I HAVE NO WAY TO USE A QUARATINE TANK so it has to be an invert friendly way of treatment. HURRY I NEED HELP FAST. i dont want to crash my tank..............

 

[J-Money]

like they say in that other thread about ich, i would go with garlic and/or UV if possible...


Good luck

 

[fish_keeper2]

ive just reab about garlic. im gonna try it. i dont know if i can get a uv steralizer in time though......do you know of any medications that are fairly common and are invert/reef safe?

 

[fish_keeper2]

tested my water: temp 81f, sg 1.0245, ph 8.2, ammonia 0-.25, nitrite 0, nitrate 5......the ammonia is probly the culprit.......i need to reduce feedings a bit and do some partials.........and figure out how to treat the ick.

 

[steelhealr]

HI...if you have positive ammonia readings, your tank is either not cycled or as you said, is being overfed and the food breakdown is overwhelming the biological filter. The fish are stressed. Some thoughts:

The most efficacious way to treat the fish are to remove them to a separate quarantine tank and treat with copper. DO NOT PUT COPPER IN YOUR MAIN TANK. The main tank should remain 'fallow' for about a month as the cysts should die down. If not possible:

1) water changes....25% followed by by 10% every couple of days

2) if you get the ammonia down, buy a skunk cleaner shrimp..they might eat the parasites off the fish and clean it

3) garlic has not shown to do anything conclusively based on recent papers, but, it couldn't hurt

4) Gently lower the s.g. gravity of the water to 1.015 and pray for the best.

Hope you can help them. SH

 

[J-Money]

4) Gently lower the s.g. gravity of the water to 1.015 and pray for the best.

i forgot about freshwater dips, guess this is a mini-freshwater dip huh? fishkeeper don't ask me about proper dips cuz i don't know how long you are supposed to leave them in the freshwater or if i would even be comfortable doing that SH's ideas sound like a good place to start. Good luck

water change water change water change

 

[Chac]

1st thing to do is calm do & don’t do anything rash

Do a couple of small sized water changes, to try to rid of the ammonia levels

IMO I would steer clear of Freshwater dips as catching the fish etc. will simply stress the little buggers out completely & make matters worse & they simply arnt effective at removing the parasite

I have just near the end of a fight with White Spot in my Tank (after losing 2 of my Bannerfish) but did save my tangs & all the other live stock, I increased my feeding amounts but in turn decreased the amount of food per feeding

I fed the following mix, Enriched Brine, Cyclopeeze, Crushed Garlic & Ginger (Supposed to Increase the fish's appetite) , Marine Dream Frozen food & of course Flake, I ended up feeding my fish every 2 - 3 hours ( so about 5 or 6 times per day for almost a week)

Now as I say I increased the amount of time I feed my Livestock but decreased the amount of food so not to cause an increase in Ammonia/NitrIte & this seems to have done the trick
(as well as my cleaners being all over my livestock most of the time), due to the fact you have a positive ammonia level I would be very careful with the amount of food you feed though

Lowering you sg will help as well as long as it is done very slowly so not to shock your livestock but again there has been studies that show that ich will survice in tank with salinity as low as 1.011 which realistically is way to low for marine fish & inverts

I wish you luck & know how you feel but the above methods worked for me (well it ain’t over yet)

Addition :

Some reefer do not believe the benefits of Garlic and/or Ginger, personally I have read both sides & simply dont know where to stand on it but I agree with SH, it will do no harm & this is the reason I have used it in the past, It is worth given it a try

Also try to keep your lighting, feeding schedule steady, your hands out the tank & as little external stress to the livestock as possible

 

[Fish Fingers]

If you can move any invertebrates you may have I suggest using the hyposalinity method. From what I've heard it's the most effective method and will cause the least amount of damage to your fish.

Instructions:
http/www.petsforum.com/personal/trevor-j...posalinity.html

 

[ostrow]

What inverts do you have at 1.0245? How are you measuring salinity?

Is this a reef setup?

I'm assuming it is a reef and you have no QT option. On other, reef-specific forums, how to treat ich is a huge controversy. I had a reef for over 2 years before my first encounter with crypto. I highly recommend a UV with slow flow. I added a 57 watt on my system and it has made a difference I believe. But I also did the following and my display is clear of the ich.

First, get Piscene Energetics M.Y.S.I.S. frozen mysis shrimp, some pure Spirulina flake, a bottle of Kent's Garlic elixer, Seachem's Metronidazole powder and Seachem's Focus powder, and Beta Glucan 200mg capsules. I also used a bottle of AP's Gel-Tek pX (more on that below.)

Second, mix the ingredients as follows: 1 spoonful (included) of the metronidazole and focus per TBSP of MYSIS. Add a pinch of the Sprirulina (assuming you have vegetarian fish in there, such as Tangs). Add about 1/3 of the contents of one of the Beta Glucan capsules. You can double or triple the recipe, probably a good idea. Cover this mixture with the garlic. I also added the Gel-Tek PX, thinking it would help the metronidazole to bind to the food. The focus is supposed to do that, but I was not convinced that the medicine would not just float off so I used the Gel-Tek, and used a tad less of the metronidazole. The problem is the Gel-Tek also includes praziquantel, which is a good medication against internals but probably can't be tolerated for as long as the metro can. So when I mixed the next batch I didn't use it. Maybe use it for one batch then not in the second as I did, or avoid altogether.

Anyway, use a tiny bit of RO water if needed to help dissolve all of this together, creating a thick paste-like mix. Spread it flat in a zip loc and freeze it.

Then feed small amounts to the tank 2-3x a day for a month. Yes, a month (thus the warning on the Gel-Tek!). I have seen no spots in the reef fish since day 8 of the feeding. I added the uv around the same time I began the feeding. I also fed to fish with ick in a QT with similar results.

There are a couple threads on Reef Central about this Seachem recipe (mine is slightly modified here).

Good luck. All of these items are reef safe and almost impossible to overdose (except, again, for the Gel-Tek though I believe the dose in there is small, better to be careful).

 

[fish_keeper2]

thanks. my total stock is 1 clownfish, 1 green clown gobby, 1 neon gobby, 1 hi fin red banded goby, 1 cleaner shrimp, 3 hermits, 3 astraea snails, 3 nassarious snails, 1 hawaian feather duster and some babies, and 1 zooanthid frag. its a 10 gal. i use a hydrometer, i try to keep the sg at 1.024 to 1.025. ya its a reef(in the making) and i dont have any way to use a qaurantine tank right now. where can i get those products as ive only seen gel tek?


last night i did a 25% partial. one thing i find odd is that none of inhabbitants shows signs of stress or ammonia poisoning......ie no heavey breathing or inflamed gills and such. also the clown goby and hi fin goby have no ich at all that ive seen and neon gobby only has a few spots while the clownfish is pretty much covered in it.

 

[ostrow]

In that small a tank ammo is going to be a regular danger. You have to do almost daily, if small, water changes, especially with that bioload.

You can get the products online through any major vendor -- Premium Aquatics, Marine Depot, Big Al's, the Drs., etc...

That one fish shows signs just means that it is the fish that is stressed, has had its immune system compromised, etc. Anything could have caused that.

You should get a refractometer. Or at a minimum, find someone with one and callibrate your swingarm so you know what it is measuring. They have a huge range of inaccuracy.

 

[fish_keeper2]

i was wondering if it would be safe to use rid-ich+ from kordon. it does say it MAY harm inverts. it contains formaldehyde 4.26%(11.52% formalin) and zinc-free clhoride and salt of of malachite green. last time i used it in my fw tanks it cleared a bad case of ich in 3 days and 2 doses. would it be safe to use with inverts if i used it at half strength?

i just visited thier site and they say to remove the inverts i wish to save. so i guess this wont work either.........


http/novalek.com/kpds.htm

 

[Chac]

IMO opinion I would be hesitant to add any chemicals to my tank especially ones that state ' May Harm Inverts'

My livestock are almost clear of the parasite & I will be adding a UV to my tank in the next week or so
I would suggest UV mixed with an increase in Diet & if you arent feeding nutrient rich food I would get some
Cycloeeze, marine Dream, Enriched Brine etc., 1 of the most important factor is to get your fish as much nutrients as possible per day (obviously without overloading your system)

Live Food is a good option

 

[fish_keeper2]

i have lowered the sg to 1.018 at 82f. this morning i noticed that most of ich is gone. the neon goby is clear of it and im sure the clwon goby and the hi fin red banded goby are still clear(need to wait till feeding time to be sure cuzz they like to stay hidden in my rock work most of the day) and on the clown fish there is only a few spots of it left and where the ich had been there is a bit of powerdyness. first of is that normal? also is the lowering of the sg really working and if so how long should i leave the sg at that level?


ive been feeding all frozen foods to my fish. they are spirulina enrished brine shrimp, bloodworms, plankton, emerald entrey(mix of algea and lettuce and such made for vegitarians(SP)) and marine cuisine(mik of krill, shrimp and some other stuff made of carnivors(SP)) i do have some marine s from hikari and formula one marine pellets from ocean nutrition along with some dried seweed but i dont use them cuzz the clownfish is the only that goes after them....the pellets sink to fast and they hit the bottom before my other fish notice them and then they could care less once they are laying on the sand.

 

[ostrow]

IMO that is a mistake. First, 1.018 will not kill crypt. If you want to do hypo, you need 1.008 for 3 weeks minimum. But your inverts can't survive at that low salinity. Indeed, corals and snails will be at huge risk at 1.018. And you will not eradicate ich. If you see no spots it is because the parasite matured, dropped off and went into the cyst stage. Read here:

http/www.petsforum.com/personal/trevor-j.../marineich.html