Possibly Upgrading

Miss Wiggle

Practically perfect in every way
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we may well be upgrading our marine tank into our juwel trigon 350. it's a 92 us g corner tank and I think it'd look absolutely awesome as a reef tank. Not fully made the descision yet but it's one of our options, so just trying to price things up and work out how hard and expensive it would be to do it.

Our skimmer is good enough to do the new tank, but we don't have enough powerheads, LR, sand or lighting.

Lighting - Ian would construct some sort of hood, would just supplimenting our 250w MH with something like PC T5 actinics on either side be OK? Obviously we'd have to be careful with coral placement. Would it be OK for the time beign to temporarily hook up the MH just somewhere above the tank and have all the LR and corals under that?

Powerheads/Filters - We have about 2500lph turnover if I remember rightly, we need 7020 minimum on the big tank. On the big tank we currently have 3 external filters and 2 internals, I reckon we could use the internals to house rowaphos and just give some extra kick. But we'd need to get at least 2/3 big powerheads before the move to make sure we had enough turnover.

Sump/Fuge - I remember reading the other week someones plans for a sump/fuge.... and they were talking about areas with no light getting to them, but I can't for the life of me remember what it was called, why they did it etc..... but if it's something that could be beneficial to us then could we use one of the external filters for it, cos surley there's no light in there and it feeds from and to the tank.

Do we absolutely definately need some sort of sump/fuge on this tank or would it be big enough to support itself? The design of the stand means there's not much room underneath and cos the tank's so heavy we're not gonna mess with the stand to make more room! We could maybe fit a 15g tank under or something like that, would it be worthwhile doing, and if so what would you house in there?

LR/LS - We have enough to support the current bioload, so would we be OK to put this in the new tank, with the current fish, inverts etc and build up slowly. Could we buy a load of base rock and stick that in with it to seed or would that cause a cycle or something in the new tank?

The actual move - Obviously it'd take us a while to run off and mix up enough SW for the big tank, if we mixed up enough SW gradually over a few days, put it in the new tank with the new powerheads and heaters and just left it like that for a couple of days while we built up enough SW to fill the bloody thing then moved all the LR etc over afterwards would that be OK? Or should we try and get enough SW from the lfs or something in one go and put the LR etc into the tank straight away?

Priorities afterwards
1 - build up LR
2 - sort out lighting
3 - get more CUC
4 - then make things pretty.

Right what else have i forgotten? would that work ok, few questions for you all.
 
just a personal opinion, but they are tricky to get the layout looking right. i had a 190 before i got the rena aqualife, it lust looked like a pile of rocks at the back corner of the tank.

i only had it as marine for a week because i just couldn't make it look how i wanted it too, the 350 may be better due to the greater depth. also the lighting was poo, i had to bodge a 30" tube in the front to get some descent light in there.

like i said before though just my personal opinion, they are very sexy tanks.
 
not gonna happen now. we were wanting to close down 1 of the tanks in the living room as we're short of space, decided to invest some money in a decent folding bike for me so without a bike taking up loads of room in the living room (we've no outdoor space or anything so it has to live there) and with our new suite in we should have more room.

i am kind of sad cos i think a 92g marine tank would be awesome, however i'm glad i don't have to re-home the fish from there cos they're my babies.
 
Miss Wiggle at my fish shop, yes its down south but i cld see if could be moved up to our winchester shop but we have a black trigon 350 for £480 a vast saving from like £800+. Its in very good nick and have only one glass scratch on the front but its not easily seen.

Any who if your interested i could have a chat with my boss about it if u like :good:

Edit: Oh just saw what you wrote lol well offer is there.
 
Miss Wiggle at my fish shop, yes its down south but i cld see if could be moved up to our winchester shop but we have a black trigon 350 for £480 a vast saving from like £800+. Its in very good nick and have only one glass scratch on the front but its not easily seen.

Any who if your interested i could have a chat with my boss about it if u like :good:

Edit: Oh just saw what you wrote lol well offer is there.


nah we already have a trigon 350, we were just gonna convert it from FW to SW, definately not got room for two of them in the front room!!

thanks anyway
 
Sump/Fuge - I remember reading the other week someones plans for a sump/fuge.... and they were talking about areas with no light getting to them, but I can't for the life of me remember what it was called, why they did it etc..... but if it's something that could be beneficial to us then could we use one of the external filters for it, cos surley there's no light in there and it feeds from and to the tank.


That was me .

Think of it this way . Lets say you have 10 inches of water in your sump, Chaetomorpha fills the first 4-5 inches any thing under that gets almost on light .This is why macro alge goes sexual in a sump sometimes. If you only use the top 4-5 inches then what to do with the Bottom??? Well if you add a net wok of egg crate it alows more room for growth of benithc inverts.
Growing macro-algae in shallow areas eliminates the major causes of sexual reproduction or crashing, which are stress, photo-period changes triggered by shadowing overgrowth, over-crowding, and old age. Macro-algae reproduces when it senses season changes or feels that its' existence is threatened. By removing these threats, it re-opens the possibility of using faster growing caulerpa varieties with anti-bacterial properties, such as C. Prolifera, C. Mexicana, and C. Racemosa. Chaetomorpha is great if you're looking for stability, but it just doesn't perform (grow) like caulerpa does. .


Zonal sumps are a new idea in the world of reefing.

Each zone requires different lighting, flow and water quality. You can allow nature to take its' course and settle with what it gives you, or you can harness the power by manipulating each zone for maximum efficiency.

Lets talk about cryptic zones


Not much is known about them.

We do know that sponges,seasquirts and other dark zone animals filter water vary well and that live sponges can work better than most hob filters.

These animals also use harmfull heavy metals and organics to grow.

benthic invertebrates, such as copepods, sponges, tunicates and worms live on the underside of the rock, where it's dark and flow is minimal

nitrate and phosphate removing benthic invertebrates will excel if they are given more surface area, such as egg-crate panels

Benthic zooplankton such as copods breed vary well and will feed your tank


Here are some links on cryptic sumps

This is the one about duplex sumps , a must read

Booksand cds on the subject.

This one is about how to use the dead space in a calfo over flow.
I might set up a duplex sump for my tank.


Remember that this info is new and that i myself am new at this and that all i know is what i have read.
 
Sump/Fuge - I remember reading the other week someones plans for a sump/fuge.... and they were talking about areas with no light getting to them, but I can't for the life of me remember what it was called, why they did it etc..... but if it's something that could be beneficial to us then could we use one of the external filters for it, cos surley there's no light in there and it feeds from and to the tank.


That was me .

Think of it this way . Lets say you have 10 inches of water in your sump, Chaetomorpha fills the first 4-5 inches any thing under that gets almost on light .This is why macro alge goes sexual in a sump sometimes. If you only use the top 4-5 inches then what to do with the Bottom??? Well if you add a net wok of egg crate it alows more room for growth of benithc inverts.
Growing macro-algae in shallow areas eliminates the major causes of sexual reproduction or crashing, which are stress, photo-period changes triggered by shadowing overgrowth, over-crowding, and old age. Macro-algae reproduces when it senses season changes or feels that its' existence is threatened. By removing these threats, it re-opens the possibility of using faster growing caulerpa varieties with anti-bacterial properties, such as C. Prolifera, C. Mexicana, and C. Racemosa. Chaetomorpha is great if you're looking for stability, but it just doesn't perform (grow) like caulerpa does. .


Zonal sumps are a new idea in the world of reefing.

Each zone requires different lighting, flow and water quality. You can allow nature to take its' course and settle with what it gives you, or you can harness the power by manipulating each zone for maximum efficiency.

Lets talk about cryptic zones


Not much is known about them.

We do know that sponges,seasquirts and other dark zone animals filter water vary well and that live sponges can work better than most hob filters.

These animals also use harmfull heavy metals and organics to grow.

benthic invertebrates, such as copepods, sponges, tunicates and worms live on the underside of the rock, where it's dark and flow is minimal

nitrate and phosphate removing benthic invertebrates will excel if they are given more surface area, such as egg-crate panels

Benthic zooplankton such as copods breed vary well and will feed your tank


Here are some links on cryptic sumps

This is the one about duplex sumps , a must read

Booksand cds on the subject.

This one is about how to use the dead space in a calfo over flow.
I might set up a duplex sump for my tank.


Remember that this info is new and that i myself am new at this and that all i know is what i have read.


hmmmm sounds really interesting stuff, i'll keep watching your threads to see how it turns out.

if you want minimal flow then i guess my idea of housing it in a cannister filter would be no good........ at a guess to limit the flow enough you'd also stop the return pump being able to get the water back up and into the tank.

bad idea alice! ha ha
 

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