Plexiglass Warping, How To Correct?

[boarat]

Hi All,

I'm a newbie here with a 225 gallon aquarium that I'm converting into a dry terrarium. I'd like to correct some warping that I've got in the middle of the tank so that I can put some doors and shelves in the tank. It's 72"L X 30"T X24"D and is 1/2" plexi.

I'm thinking of putting some flexxwatt heat tape on both sides of one panel of plexi, putting that side down in my garage (flat cement floor) over towels, putting a sheet of plywood over the opposite end, and adding some weight to it. I can leave this overnight. The heat tape gets up close to 140°F If I left this for a full day would this do anything at all? I've not experience with this sort of thing, but in theory this seems like it might work (my probably idiotic theory only). The heat tape is only 20 watts a foot, and it's not a fire hazard, people use this tape to heat all sorts of materials in the herpetology field, including plexi. The heat tape extremely thin.

If I'm way off base and there is an easy, or standard way to get rid of warping in a 1/2" thick tank, I'd really appreciate it if someone could set me straight. The tank doesn't need to hold water in the future, so I'm not too worried about warping in the future, plus the shelves should keep it in place. Thanks in advance! Curt

 

[And_Hef]

I'm not exactly sure what you're trying to end up with, but I'll take a stabe at it...

If there is warping only on one side, try to use that as the back then screw the shelf into that plexiglass panel to snug it down and take out the warping. If the only option for the front is the piece which is warped you could try the tape, but I'm not too sure if the 140*F is enough (you may have to use several pieces of the heat tape). Do you have access to a "heat gun"? If so you could try that. I know boiling water will make it flexable to a point and it would probably be difficult to keep the hot water next to the plexiglass without getting burned.

I wish I could be of more help.

Good luck with the project and let us see some pictures once it's finished.

 

[boarat]

Thanks for the reply. It's bowed out on both sides, so I was hoping the heat tape and some pressure would put the plexi back in place. I spoke to a plastics shop and they were worried that screwing the shelves in may make pressure fractures. I'm making a terrarium for a black headed python, I'm hoping it'll be a high end reptile terrarium for my rapidly growing snake. Since it's bowed on both sides I'll try the heat tape inittially on one side, then if successfull I'll turn the tank around and do the other side. I know 140 is not very hot, but I was hoping I'd get some movement and keep it hot for a day or two. I'll post pics when I'm done with the cage, with the snake in it. It was hard getting rid of my fish (two oscars/elect. cat/red pike). I had them for eight years! But only so much room in my townhome. Any other ideas out there would be appreciated! Thanks again! Curt

 

[mr.dark-saint]

I have a 100 gallon with the pot belly. Since it took time to bow out I wouldn't put any quick fix to fix it (I doubt putting heat and heavy things on it would do anything over night. If the weight is too much like the dudes mentioned you'll crack it (I for one would see "Crazing" which is usually seen in vases and other glazed earthen wear). I'd just live with the bow since you might damage it more than fix it. But it is your tank so I suppose this is what's known as my two cents.

 

[SkiFletch]

Yeah, 140F isnt really that much heat and 1/2 acrylic will probably laugh at the tape's low thermal mass anyways. Your best bet would be a convection oven with some clamps at say 200F but thats probably not an option for you. A heat gun will not provide a uniform enough temperature and you'll run the risk of cracking or melting the acrylic. A big enough oven and big eough clamps are really the only way to apply the uniform heat necessary in my oppinion.