Play Sand ? For a substrate ?

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That One Guy
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i am about to announce my ignorance for all to see. I have read several references to play sand as a substrate on this forum. Are we talking about ordinary sand ? Many moons ago , in the 1960's , as a youngster , I had the idea of using sand instead of gravel thinking it would be more natural and be a great thing to plant Vallisneria into. That plant was once widely available but I don't see it anymore. OK, that's another topic. Anyway, I put the sand into my aquarium after washing it very thoroughly and it looked great. A few days later I was poking around in the tank doing something and I unwittingly released a big bubble from deep within the sand. That bubble had the most noxious anaerobic stink ever and this sent the mother of all red flags up to me. I immediately switched everything back to gravel. This happened years ago and I still remember it vividly. So my question is : what the hey !
 
Play sand is just the stuff sold for children to play in. If you were in the UK, you'd look at Argos or B&Q play sand. I think Lowes in the US but American members can point you in the right direction (assuming you are in the US).

Play sand is very safe for tanks - it has to be as children eat it, either deliberately or accidentally. But it is full of dust and needs a good amount of washing.
 
I concur with essjay. Back in the 1980's sand was rarely discussed for freshwater tanks. Times change, and myths get exploded--and there were and still are many myths in this hobby.

I changed over to play sand about six years ago, every tank in my fishroom. I've never regretted it, and I wish I had done it sooner. I have plants in all my tanks, and they have no problems with sand. Some fish really do need it (cories, some other catfish, some of the loaches). Obviously sand can compact, but so can gravel, and with the same result. But you need some anaerobic areas (substrate under wood and rocks should absolutely never be touched) for a healthy system.

I don't have my sand substrates very deep, maybe 2 inches spread over the tank floor to start with, then sometimes arranging this with levels, though over time the natural water movement through the substrate tend to even the substrate out anyway. Except in my 10g with spawning/fry pygmy copries, I never touch the substrate. Malaysian Livebearing Snails help, as do plants rooted in the substrate.

In NA we seem to have two tones of play sand, one a dark grey (the one I use) and the other a buff colour. Considering how safe play sand is for fish, how natural it looks (identical to sands in the Amazon streams), how well plants grow in it, and the incredible low cost for even a large tan k...why use anything else?
 
I’ve heard of people using it but I haven’t myself.
 
Well, I want to try it again. Byron said you need those anaerobic areas in a healthy system. That sounds right to me even though I don't understand why. I like an aquarium that looks as natural as my imagination envisions what I would see if I was actually right there underwater in South America or wherever. Seems to me also that plants would thrive in it. And I also agree that Corydoras and others need that. I have read substantiation of that. Something to do with their barbels. Thank you for the information. I have to give it a go and will let you know how it turned out. One other quick question. Depending on the type of rock the sand is crushed out of, does it tend to buffer the water to an alkaline pH ?
 
Well, I want to try it again. Byron said you need those anaerobic areas in a healthy system. That sounds right to me even though I don't understand why. I like an aquarium that looks as natural as my imagination envisions what I would see if I was actually right there underwater in South America or wherever. Seems to me also that plants would thrive in it. And I also agree that Corydoras and others need that. I have read substantiation of that. Something to do with their barbels. Thank you for the information. I have to give it a go and will let you know how it turned out. One other quick question. Depending on the type of rock the sand is crushed out of, does it tend to buffer the water to an alkaline pH ?

Play sand is inert, so it will not affect water chemistry. It is the most refined of the industrial sands so it is safe for fish that sift it through their gills (cories do this which is why they need sand), and safe for their softer underbelly.

You can acquire calcareous sands such as crushed coral/aragonite that are intended for marine tanks, and rift lake tanks; these dissolve calcium and magnesium to increase GH and KH and pH, necessary in such tanks. Also work for livebearers. But should never be used for soft water fish species.

On the anaerobic issue, the following excerpts from an article I authored elsewhere a few years ago may explain it.

The bacteria responsible for this nitrification process of converting ammonia to nitrite to nitrate are termed nitrifying. But the nitrogen cycle is only complete (in aquaria) when it includes de-nitrification; in this stage, different bacteria that are termed denitrifying convert nitrate into nitrogen gas which is released back into the atmosphere. Another component of the complete nitrogen cycle in nature but not present in our aquaria involves the “fixing” of atmospheric nitrogen by cyanobacteria and other life forms.

Denitrifying Bacteria

These heterotrophic bacteria, of which there are several species, utilize nitrate by consuming the oxygen within nitrate and releasing nitrogen gas. They do not require free oxygen in the water so they are facultative anaerobes, and generally occur in what we term “dead spots,” which occur when water movement is stopped and thus no oxygen is available. These are the good guys among heterotrophs, since de-nitrification is important in a healthy aquarium. And they will naturally occur in the lower level of the substrate as will be explained below.

Waste Control Bacteria

These species of heterotrophic bacteria break down dead organic matter like fish waste, dead fish or plant matter, uneaten fish food, dead bacteria, etc. Some are aerobic, but many species are facultative anaerobes, able to live with or without oxygen. Like all bacteria, they colonize surfaces, and these are most prevalent in the substrate and the filter media. Many species can survive complete drying, allowing them to remain potent even when filter media that has been previously used is completely dry.

These bacteria have only one requirement to appear and live: organics. They compete with autotrophic bacteria for both oxygen and surface area; studies show that even in relatively clean environments, they occupy more than 50% of the available surface area. And given that they can reproduce within 15-60 minutes—compare this to the 12-32 hours required by nitrifying bacteria—you can see how easily these heterotrophic bacteria can overwhelm the system. In a filter, if sludge is allowed to increase, heterotrophic bacteria will multiply so fast they actually smother and kill the autotrophic nitrifying bacteria.

Substrate Bacteria

The greatest population of bacteria in a healthy balanced aquarium occurs in the substrate, not the filter. The floc or humic compost that collects in the substrate is the host for the biofilms; this is why the substrate in planted tanks should never be disturbed significantly, and many aquarists apply this to non-planted tanks as well.

In very general terms, aerobic nitrification takes place in the top 1-2 inches of the substrate; anaerobic de-nitrification takes place approximately 2-4 inches down, and anaerobic bacteria producing hydrogen sulfide occurs in substrates deeper than 3-4 inches. In all three cases, it will be deeper in coarse substrates (like pea gravel) and more shallow in finer substrates such as sand. These generalities will also vary with the presence of live plant roots and substrate “diggers” such as snails and worms, since these factors result in more oxygen being made available in the substrate, reducing anaerobic bacteria activity. An oxygen level in the substrate of as little as 1 ppm promotes nitrogen reduction rather than sulfur reduction (hydrogen sulfide). [6]

Maintaining a substrate of fine gravel or sand no deeper than 4 inches, having live plants rooted in the substrate, and keeping Malaysian Livebearing snails are the best and safest methods of providing a healthy biological system for aerobic and denitrifying anaerobic bacteria.

[6] Strohmeyer, Carl, “Nitrogen Cycle and Aquarium & Pond Cycling,” American Aquarium Products website.​
 
I have seen a similar post before (quite probably from Byron). I can confirm what he says from my own tanks since I switched to sand in 2004. I have never managed to achieve any significant anaerobic de-nitrification (I have tried) and certainly never hydrogen sulphide pockets. I used to regularly stir up the sand to avoid these but these days I don't bother. I do keep the average depth at around 2 inches and do have plants and Malaysian Livebearing snails.

(Not sure why you are struggling to find Vallis. Its still very popular and there is loads in both of my tanks)
 
I have seen a similar post before (quite probably from Byron). I can confirm what he says from my own tanks since I switched to sand in 2004. I have never managed to achieve any significant anaerobic de-nitrification (I have tried) and certainly never hydrogen sulphide pockets. I used to regularly stir up the sand to avoid these but these days I don't bother. I do keep the average depth at around 2 inches and do have plants and Malaysian Livebearing snails.

(Not sure why you are struggling to find Vallis. Its still very popular and there is loads in both of my tanks)
I can't find Vallisneria because I live in a small town with one chain pet store that carries next to nothing of interest and one small family owned pet shop that caters to fish in the very smallest way. Birds and lizards are their primary focus. I will just have to break down and order online. A sad option for a dinosaur like me but, perhaps, necessary.
 

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