Ph Question

rustyspurs

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hi,
my water ph is 6.2,
may have been bog wood that lowered it.
my tap water is 7.6 or 7.7
will a huge water change bring the water back to normal.
lfs sold me bag of crushed stuff to put on my sand as i have no room in my filter
is this needed? :blink:
 
The huge water change would temporarily bring the water back to normal, only to have it drop again, so it's pointless. At most you'll stress the fish with constant pH swings. The bogwood is the most likely cause, and may keep affecting the pH for months, although in general pH will always gradually decrease in your tank (filter bacteria deplete the carbonate hardness of the water, and so do some plants).

Is there a reason why 6.2 isn't suitable for you? How old is the tank, and how long has the bogwood been there? Are you having any other issues with water quality, or unhealthy looking fish? If not, I'd just let it stay at 6.2, forget about the crushed coral stuff and stop worrying about it.
 
The huge water change would temporarily bring the water back to normal, only to have it drop again, so it's pointless. At most you'll stress the fish with constant pH swings. The bogwood is the most likely cause, and may keep affecting the pH for months, although in general pH will always gradually decrease in your tank (filter bacteria deplete the carbonate hardness of the water, and so do some plants).

Is there a reason why 6.2 isn't suitable for you? How old is the tank, and how long has the bogwood been there? Are you having any other issues with water quality, or unhealthy looking fish? If not, I'd just let it stay at 6.2, forget about the crushed coral stuff and stop worrying about it.

how do plants decrease carbonate hardness?
sorry for hijacking the thread rustyspurs. I agree with all of the above by the way.

Thanks.
 
how do plants decrease carbonate hardness?

Most obligate aquatic plants (e.g. Egeria, Cabomba, Myriophyllum, Vallisneria etc) can use bicarbonate as a carbon source when grown under ambient CO2 concentrations, although they all stop doing this when there's ample CO2 available. The decrease in bicarbonate brings the KH down.

If I remember correctly, plants that can grow emersed are generally unable to do this. I'll post some links a bit later when I have time to search a bit (I think Tropica had an article on this but their site is down).

edit: Looks like I remembered incorrectly on the emersed plant thing, since this list by Tom Barr includes swords, and I suppose he knows what he's talking about.
 
Most obligate aquatic plants (e.g. Egeria, Cabomba, Myriophyllum, Vallisneria etc) can use bicarbonate as a carbon source when grown under ambient CO2 concentrations

not all of those species can utilise bicarbonates.

although they all stop doing this when there's ample CO2 available.

Not all plants stop, in fact some species (eg. vallisneria) cant survive without bicarbonates, carbonates and calcium as this would mean they cannot utilise 'them' properly. If you read up on polarisation of the leaves you will see why. It is here in this tropica page - box 2.

http://www.tropica.com/article.asp?type=aquaristic&id=835

was this what you was reffering to in your last post?

The decrease in bicarbonate brings the KH down.

The amount of HCO3 used isn't alot, and has a negligible affect on KH. The energy and time required to complete the process of uptaking HCO3 and converting it etc makes the process slow. Only a few plants such as vallisneria and a few myriophyllum species are adapted for maxiumum efficiency in utilising HCO3.
Other plants which can use HCO3 have to polarize the leaves whereas the species listed above dont have to do this.
So unless you have a tank full of plants which are 'good' at utilising HCO3, then you will still probably only notice a change of about 1dKH providing it is a CO2 limiting tank.


Thanks, Aaron
 
Most obligate aquatic plants (e.g. Egeria, Cabomba, Myriophyllum, Vallisneria etc) can use bicarbonate as a carbon source when grown under ambient CO2 concentrations

not all of those species can utilise bicarbonates.

I think you're right. I don't know where I got Cabomba from.

although they all stop doing this when there's ample CO2 available.

Not all plants stop, in fact some species (eg. vallisneria) cant survive without bicarbonates, carbonates and calcium as this would mean they cannot utilise 'them' properly. If you read up on polarisation of the leaves you will see why. It is here in this tropica page - box 2.

http://www.tropica.com/article.asp?type=aquaristic&id=835

was this what you was reffering to in your last post?

Yeah. In the box you mention, they state that both forms of bicarbonate use (polarization of leaves, and bicarbonate uptake via ion channels) stop when CO2 level becomes non-limiting. ("Regardless of the model in use, bicarbonate uptake is an energy consuming process and thus, even good bicarbonate users do not produce the necessary enzymes unless needed. Thus, in environments with high CO2, these bicarbonate users cannot use bicarbonate without going though a period of time with low CO2 during which the necessary enzymes are produced.")

Not sure what you mean by surviving without, but Vallisneria certainly doesn't require a high amount of carbonate hardness, if you provide it with co2 either in the water column or in the substrate (which is supposedly the case in Walstad-type tanks). I have spiralis growing like a weed at a KH of 2 - 3.

The decrease in bicarbonate brings the KH down.

The amount of HCO3 used isn't alot, and has a negligible affect on KH. The energy and time required to complete the process of uptaking HCO3 and converting it etc makes the process slow.

Is it negligible? I don't know. We know that a densely planted tank can deplete a significant amount of nitrate/nitrite/ammonia easily. Yet plants are composed of 20+ times more carbon than nitrogen, so it seems they must bind carbon at a roughly similar ratio, right? If they can't get enough CO2 from the water column and substrate to match the light level in the tank, they'll take bicarbonate (assuming the species can do so) no matter how slow or inefficient it is. With the polarized-leaf variety, you'll sometimes see either a dusty carbonate precipitate or an encrusted deposit on the top of the leaves as a result of this (the high pH on that side of the leaf precipitates calcium carbonate out of the water).

In the days of yore, before CO2 injection became common, people did seem to be concerned about the fairly rapid depletion of KH in planted tanks, which seems unlikely to be attributable to nitric acid buildup, since in a planted tank you generally need to add nitrate rather than worry about it accumulating. Granted, they used high lights and no added CO2, which does result in wacky conditions.

Only a few plants such as vallisneria and a few myriophyllum species are adapted for maxiumum efficiency in utilising HCO3. Other plants which can use HCO3 have to polarize the leaves whereas the species listed above dont have to do this. So unless you have a tank full of plants which are 'good' at utilising HCO3, then you will still probably only notice a change of about 1dKH providing it is a CO2 limiting tank.

Agreed on the maximum efficiency. That's why I said "some plants" in my original post. Vallisneria is pretty common in the hobby though, given that many hobbyists find them easy to grow in low tech tanks, and Myriophyllum isn't all that exotic either, even if they're not as commonly sold as before.

I think you're probably right that in most tanks, under typical aquarium conditions, this isn't a very significant factor. But this is the Scientific section after all, so it's good to go into some detail. :)
 
Yeah. In the box you mention, they state that both forms of bicarbonate use (polarization of leaves, and bicarbonate uptake via ion channels) stop when CO2 level becomes non-limiting. ("Regardless of the model in use, bicarbonate uptake is an energy consuming process and thus, even good bicarbonate users do not produce the necessary enzymes unless needed. Thus, in environments with high CO2, these bicarbonate users cannot use bicarbonate without going though a period of time with low CO2 during which the necessary enzymes are produced.")

Not sure what you mean by surviving without, but Vallisneria certainly doesn't require a high amount of carbonate hardness, if you provide it with co2 either in the water column or in the substrate (which is supposedly the case in Walstad-type tanks). I have spiralis growing like a weed at a KH of 2 - 3.

that is what i mean, 2dkh is considered the minimum you should have, any lower and you encounter problems. That is why it is reccomended you have at least 4KH & 4GH to limit defficiencies.
some people run tanks with 0KH and can grow plants fine, but i have never seen vallisneria grown in these tanks :dunno:
I have tried, with lots of lighting/ CO2/ nutrients and i failed. :( About the only plant i cant grow lol.

I now agree plants stop using HCO3 when sufficient CO2 is available. I have been doing more research on this, i dont have a login for this but it looks to be the perfect paper on the subject :rolleyes:
http://www.sciencedirect.com/science?_ob=ArticleURL&_udi=B6T4F-4GNKS0J-1&_user=10&_rdoc=1&_fmt=&_orig=search&_sort=d&_docanchor=&view=c&_searchStrId=1061864736&_rerunOrigin=google&_acct=C000050221&_version=1&_urlVersion=0&_userid=10&md5=5987034bddd8d139d1a6b282457379e1

I dont always agree with tropica statments, they still believe Nitrate & Phosphate trigger algae...


Is it negligible? I don't know. We know that a densely planted tank can deplete a significant amount of nitrate/nitrite/ammonia easily. Yet plants are composed of 20+ times more carbon than nitrogen, so it seems they must bind carbon at a roughly similar ratio, right? If they can't get enough CO2 from the water column and substrate to match the light level in the tank, they'll take bicarbonate (assuming the species can do so) no matter how slow or inefficient it is. With the polarized-leaf variety, you'll sometimes see either a dusty carbonate precipitate or an encrusted deposit on the top of the leaves as a result of this (the high pH on that side of the leaf precipitates calcium carbonate out of the water).

In the days of yore, before CO2 injection became common, people did seem to be concerned about the fairly rapid depletion of KH in planted tanks, which seems unlikely to be attributable to nitric acid buildup, since in a planted tank you generally need to add nitrate rather than worry about it accumulating. Granted, they used high lights and no added CO2, which does result in wacky conditions.

This is a sweeping statement for this section: but i have never recorded a drop in KH since keeping plants. (3 different tanks). KH has always been 8degrees (tank & tap water).
I also have recorded readings on several other tanks at families & at the LFS and there hasnt been a drop either.

I have never read about it either so in this case we cant have a definitive answer unless anyone can find some data.

Thanks, Aaron
 

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