paludarium Structure

[Sgooosh]

Hello, I'm planning on building a paludarium from an old fish tank (and a greenhouse-ish top) and I'm wondering what methods can be used to separate the water and the soil?
Preferably it would be built out of fired clay and silicone.

also wondering what cheap lights you think work for plants?

 

[WhistlingBadger]

I just noticed your "monke fish." Never looked at its face before. Have a look at my 55g journal; if you like how it looks, I can tell you how I did it. Sounds like you might have something different in mind, though.

 

[Sgooosh]

I just noticed your "monke fish." Never looked at its face before. Have a look at my 55g journal; if you like how it looks, I can tell you how I did it. Sounds like you might have something different in mind, though.

the monke fish is quite wonderful!
i just checked it out, and I love how far the tank has gone since I saw it from the beginning!
I would like to create one just like that, however with more stagnant water since I will be growing tadpoles.
- I'm still deciding whether to grow fish, frogs, or crabs!
It would be interesting to create a documentary or something of them from a tadpole to a frog in the same tank, while the tank evolves itself too.

I have some questions:
1. how did you do the rocks?
2. How did you seal the rocks and attatch them to the side?

Thanks so much!

 

[WhistlingBadger]

The "rocks" are made from blue insulation foam, which you can buy at any home store or hardware store. I cut them to shape with a hot knife (you could just buy yourself one of these to save a lot of mess), then scrape them with a flat metal tool--a putty knife works well--to put texture on them. Paint them with drylok, which again you should be able to find at most hardware stores. Be sure you use the original variety which is fish-safe once it cures. Some kinds have mold inhibitors in them, which are probably toxic to aquatic life.

Tint the drylok with concrete pigment. I like to paint my fake rocks with a dark color first, then dry-brush over it with a lighter color to bring out the texture. Drylok has silica crystals embedded in it and a nice, rough texture, so this technique gives a surprisingly realistic result. Let it cure according to the instructions, then just silicone it to the back wall of the tank. Don't be cheap with the glue, as this stuff is extremely buoyant!

I carved mine into shelves for mosses, and little planters for rooted plants. I make the bottoms of the planters open, then glue in a piece of stainless steel mesh to cover the bottom. Make sure you use stainless; otherwise it will rust. Plastic mesh can work too but isn't as strong. Cover that will a bit of filter fluff, fill the planter with aquarium sand, and you're ready for plants!

If you choose plants that like "wet feet" (bog plants) you can have the bottoms of the planters touching the surface of the water. I currently grow rice, tea, and a couple of nice mystery plants that came in with the mosses; I'll probably replace the tea with pothos or a nice rabbit foot fern at some point.

Hope that's helpful. There are some process pictures of my original build here. When I upgraded I didn't do any build along photos, since I already had fish and plants waiting for a home and needed to just get on with it. If you have any questions, you know where to find me!

 

[Sgooosh]

The "rocks" are made from blue insulation foam, which you can buy at any home store or hardware store. I cut them to shape with a hot knife (you could just buy yourself one of these to save a lot of mess), then scrape them with a flat metal tool--a putty knife works well--to put texture on them. Paint them with drylok, which again you should be able to find at most hardware stores. Be sure you use the original variety which is fish-safe once it cures. Some kinds have mold inhibitors in them, which are probably toxic to aquatic life.

Tint the drylok with concrete pigment. I like to paint my fake rocks with a dark color first, then dry-brush over it with a lighter color to bring out the texture. Drylok has silica crystals embedded in it and a nice, rough texture, so this technique gives a surprisingly realistic result. Let it cure according to the instructions, then just silicone it to the back wall of the tank. Don't be cheap with the glue, as this stuff is extremely buoyant!

I carved mine into shelves for mosses, and little planters for rooted plants. I make the bottoms of the planters open, then glue in a piece of stainless steel mesh to cover the bottom. Make sure you use stainless; otherwise it will rust. Plastic mesh can work too but isn't as strong. Cover that will a bit of filter fluff, fill the planter with aquarium sand, and you're ready for plants!

If you choose plants that like "wet feet" (bog plants) you can have the bottoms of the planters touching the surface of the water. I currently grow rice, tea, and a couple of nice mystery plants that came in with the mosses; I'll probably replace the tea with pothos or a nice rabbit foot fern at some point.

Hope that's helpful. There are some process pictures of my original build here. When I upgraded I didn't do any build along photos, since I already had fish and plants waiting for a home and needed to just get on with it. If you have any questions, you know where to find me!

Thanks for he tips! Wndering if Grout, acrylic paint and woodglue works for Drylok? I don't want to buy a massive can and then never use it again lol.
I'm also wondering what the planters look like un-filled?

 

[WhistlingBadger]

I wouldn't use wood glue. Even the waterproof kinds (Titebond III is my go-to) aren't made for submersion in water and I have no idea if they're fish-safe. My hardware store carries drylok in quart cans, which is about right for doing a tank, and in gallons. If you put the lid back on right, it keeps pretty much forever, so you'll have it if you ever want to do another tank or add pieces to the one you have.

The unfilled planters look like flat topped rocks with big holes carved in the top.