I'm posting this one year update for anyone interested in pursuing a nano reef. This is not meant as a pontification (although I caution you that this is a long post) but a diary summary. Nano reefing is not cheap and the investment can run into the thousands. Newcomers entering nano reefing should take the hobby seriously before endeavouring to maintain a reef smaller than normally recommended.
I started FW here with the assistance of TFF members and mods. One of our own members diverted me into marine by starting a diary of her own nano tank (parker313). I still keep two FW tanks, lest anyone think that I've abandoned my roots. Doing marine and FW gives one a unique view of both sides of fish anatomy, physiology and their biotopes. I highly recommend pursuing both if possible.
Herewith my 1 year summary for what was then still controversial: tanks under 30G's. My tank took some hits last fall and is slowly recovering. Although it has lost some of it's 'peak fall beauty', it is slowly coming back and I hope it restore it to the way it was as time and money permit. Good luck with your nano reefs.
"Beauty comes slowly, disaster happens quickly".
SH
Tank Summary
Born on date
April 9, 2005
Lighting
JBJ stock lighting, 72watts PC 50/50 actinic
Maintenance
-Weekly 10-16% water changes.
-Bimonthly SW and topoff water made with AquaSafe 6 stage RO/DI unit. Water aged and heated.
-Started with Oceanic, tried Tropic Marin, currently using Reef Crystals.
-check s.g. every 1-3 days. Daily topoff with 1 liter pure water
-parameter checks 1X per week, more frequent if tank looks problematic
Tank Supplements
None except for B-Ionic or Kent CB Two Part for calcium/buffering.
Live Rock
Initial 20lbs from Premiumaquatics.com, mixture Kaelini, Marshall Islands, Fiji; 3lbs live rock rubble
Additions: 2.5lbs Solomon Islands, 1lb Marshall Islands
Substrate
20lbs lbs CaribSea Aragalive Aragonite sand
3lbs live find sand from existing tank
Average Parameters
pH: 8.1-8.2
ammonia: 0
nitrite: 0
nitrates: 0 ppm
kH: 7-9
Ca2+: 380-390 ppm
P: 0 ppm
Mg2+: 1450ppm
s.g. 1.026
temp: 81.5-82.7 by Coralife digital temp probe
Chambers
Chamber 1: Stock pump, Chemipure, SeaGel, Purigen, Algone, filter floss changed 2X/week
Chamber 2: lr rubble, chaetomorpha, external fuge light mod with 27Watts PC light 6700K; Coralife digital temp probe and Pinpoint pH probe
Chamber 3: MJ1200 PH, Ebo Jager 100W heater, Hydor Flo
Modifications
1) Additional Maxijet 1200 PH, total 590 gph, 25X turnover
2) Stock pump in chamber one with bulkheadless outflow
3) Chamber 2 refugium with light
4) NanoBob surface skimmer over intake grate
5) Hydor Flo wavemaking nozzle on stock outflow
Livestock
1) Initial cleanup crew:
-5 nassarius
-5 astrea
-2 blue legged hermtis
-2 red legged hermits
-2 emerald crabs
-1 skunk cleaner
Losses: 3 margaritas, 3 cerith, 3 astrea, 2 emeralds, one skunk cleaner, 2 red legs, one blue leg
Original survivors: 2-3 nassarius, 2-3 astrea, one blue legged hermit
Replacements: skunk cleaner, 2 trochus, 3 astrea, one scarlet hermit, black longspine urchin
2) Current fish
-Sixline wrasse
-true percula
-Randall's banded pistol shrimp (yashia haze recently died)
-Banggai cardinalfish
Losses: green clown goby, yellow-striped clingfish, 2 common firefish, tailspot blenny, yashia haze
Added Corals
Softies/Leathers
-sinularia flexibis (spaghetti finger leather)
-sarcophyton elegans (yellow Fiji leather)
-tubipora musica (organ pipe)
Zoanthids
-green, orange (firecracker), green/pink
Corallimorphs
-ricordea florida: orange, blue, green
-actinodiscus: red, fluorescent green, blue
LPS
-fungia sp (orange plate coral)
-caulastrea curvata(trumpet coral)
-favites (green closed brain)
-acanthastrea echinata (rainbow acan)
-euphyllia ancora (hammer coral)
-tubastrea aurea (orange cup corals)
-nemanzophyllia (fox coral)
Gorgonians
-pterogorgia sp (purple sea whip)
Losses: purple sea whip, orange cup coral, orange and green/orange zoanthids, tubipora musica, fox coral
Feeding
-Cyclopeeze, baby brine shrimp, alternating for corals 1-2X per week
-frozen mysid, Ocean Nutrition II flake, Nutrafin slow sinking pellet, Hikari enriched brine shrimp for fish every other day
-very occasional small piece of seaweed (nori) for the urchin
Tank Losses/Insults
First 6 months
1) Green clown goby disappeared after acclimation
2) Severe cyanobacteria infestation; eradicated with E-M tabs
3) Large open brain died, disintegrated, contaminated tank
4) Yellow striped clingfish died after two weeks
5) Common firefish trapped in cassette mod, drowns
6) Sea star, fromia indica, disintegrates after 48 hours and contaminates tank, 30% zoos close down and some lose their color permanently
7) Hawaiian feather duster drops its crown, disappears and reappears 2 weeks later
8) Various invert losses/deaths/stolen shells
9) Halimeda fails under submersible halogen fuge light; chaeto survives
10) Discovery of a hairline fissure and the JBJ NC 24G cracking debacle unfolds
Second 6 months
1) Feather duster drops it crown several more times then disappears forever
2) Red macroalgae comes in as a hitchhiker on added LR and becomes pervasive
3) Orange cup coral makes nitrate control extremely difficult
4) Replacement common firefish keeps hidden, disappears, shows up in the rear sump 2 weeks later emaciated and dies
5) Tailspot blenny acclimates well but slowly beccomes emaciated and dies
6) Unknown 'toxin' sweeps thru the tank tanking down my zoos, fox, purple gorgonian, tubipora. Etiology may have been the death of the gorgonian (first to go). Nitrates were 10ppm average.
7) Change of tank lights bleaches out 2 brains, remaining zoos and stresses the Fiji. All recover.
8) Switching to an external fuge light drives chaeto growth crazy and now consistently keeps nitrates at 0 ppm
9) Yashia haze continually jumps into the rear sumps, eventually is found dead behind the surface skimmer.
Nasty Visitors
I had them all:
Initial aquascape during cycling:
First frags:
Cyano outbreak:
Tank at it's peak:
Macroalgae invades:
The 'Plague' comes:
Aftermath:
I started FW here with the assistance of TFF members and mods. One of our own members diverted me into marine by starting a diary of her own nano tank (parker313). I still keep two FW tanks, lest anyone think that I've abandoned my roots. Doing marine and FW gives one a unique view of both sides of fish anatomy, physiology and their biotopes. I highly recommend pursuing both if possible.
Herewith my 1 year summary for what was then still controversial: tanks under 30G's. My tank took some hits last fall and is slowly recovering. Although it has lost some of it's 'peak fall beauty', it is slowly coming back and I hope it restore it to the way it was as time and money permit. Good luck with your nano reefs.
"Beauty comes slowly, disaster happens quickly".
SH
Tank Summary
Born on date
April 9, 2005
Lighting
JBJ stock lighting, 72watts PC 50/50 actinic
Maintenance
-Weekly 10-16% water changes.
-Bimonthly SW and topoff water made with AquaSafe 6 stage RO/DI unit. Water aged and heated.
-Started with Oceanic, tried Tropic Marin, currently using Reef Crystals.
-check s.g. every 1-3 days. Daily topoff with 1 liter pure water
-parameter checks 1X per week, more frequent if tank looks problematic
Tank Supplements
None except for B-Ionic or Kent CB Two Part for calcium/buffering.
Live Rock
Initial 20lbs from Premiumaquatics.com, mixture Kaelini, Marshall Islands, Fiji; 3lbs live rock rubble
Additions: 2.5lbs Solomon Islands, 1lb Marshall Islands
Substrate
20lbs lbs CaribSea Aragalive Aragonite sand
3lbs live find sand from existing tank
Average Parameters
pH: 8.1-8.2
ammonia: 0
nitrite: 0
nitrates: 0 ppm
kH: 7-9
Ca2+: 380-390 ppm
P: 0 ppm
Mg2+: 1450ppm
s.g. 1.026
temp: 81.5-82.7 by Coralife digital temp probe
Chambers
Chamber 1: Stock pump, Chemipure, SeaGel, Purigen, Algone, filter floss changed 2X/week
Chamber 2: lr rubble, chaetomorpha, external fuge light mod with 27Watts PC light 6700K; Coralife digital temp probe and Pinpoint pH probe
Chamber 3: MJ1200 PH, Ebo Jager 100W heater, Hydor Flo
Modifications
1) Additional Maxijet 1200 PH, total 590 gph, 25X turnover
2) Stock pump in chamber one with bulkheadless outflow
3) Chamber 2 refugium with light
4) NanoBob surface skimmer over intake grate
5) Hydor Flo wavemaking nozzle on stock outflow
Livestock
1) Initial cleanup crew:
-5 nassarius
-5 astrea
-2 blue legged hermtis
-2 red legged hermits
-2 emerald crabs
-1 skunk cleaner
Losses: 3 margaritas, 3 cerith, 3 astrea, 2 emeralds, one skunk cleaner, 2 red legs, one blue leg
Original survivors: 2-3 nassarius, 2-3 astrea, one blue legged hermit
Replacements: skunk cleaner, 2 trochus, 3 astrea, one scarlet hermit, black longspine urchin
2) Current fish
-Sixline wrasse
-true percula
-Randall's banded pistol shrimp (yashia haze recently died)
-Banggai cardinalfish
Losses: green clown goby, yellow-striped clingfish, 2 common firefish, tailspot blenny, yashia haze
Added Corals
Softies/Leathers
-sinularia flexibis (spaghetti finger leather)
-sarcophyton elegans (yellow Fiji leather)
-tubipora musica (organ pipe)
Zoanthids
-green, orange (firecracker), green/pink
Corallimorphs
-ricordea florida: orange, blue, green
-actinodiscus: red, fluorescent green, blue
LPS
-fungia sp (orange plate coral)
-caulastrea curvata(trumpet coral)
-favites (green closed brain)
-acanthastrea echinata (rainbow acan)
-euphyllia ancora (hammer coral)
-tubastrea aurea (orange cup corals)
-nemanzophyllia (fox coral)
Gorgonians
-pterogorgia sp (purple sea whip)
Losses: purple sea whip, orange cup coral, orange and green/orange zoanthids, tubipora musica, fox coral
Feeding
-Cyclopeeze, baby brine shrimp, alternating for corals 1-2X per week
-frozen mysid, Ocean Nutrition II flake, Nutrafin slow sinking pellet, Hikari enriched brine shrimp for fish every other day
-very occasional small piece of seaweed (nori) for the urchin
Tank Losses/Insults
First 6 months
1) Green clown goby disappeared after acclimation
2) Severe cyanobacteria infestation; eradicated with E-M tabs
3) Large open brain died, disintegrated, contaminated tank
4) Yellow striped clingfish died after two weeks
5) Common firefish trapped in cassette mod, drowns
6) Sea star, fromia indica, disintegrates after 48 hours and contaminates tank, 30% zoos close down and some lose their color permanently
7) Hawaiian feather duster drops its crown, disappears and reappears 2 weeks later
8) Various invert losses/deaths/stolen shells
9) Halimeda fails under submersible halogen fuge light; chaeto survives
10) Discovery of a hairline fissure and the JBJ NC 24G cracking debacle unfolds
Second 6 months
1) Feather duster drops it crown several more times then disappears forever
2) Red macroalgae comes in as a hitchhiker on added LR and becomes pervasive
3) Orange cup coral makes nitrate control extremely difficult
4) Replacement common firefish keeps hidden, disappears, shows up in the rear sump 2 weeks later emaciated and dies
5) Tailspot blenny acclimates well but slowly beccomes emaciated and dies
6) Unknown 'toxin' sweeps thru the tank tanking down my zoos, fox, purple gorgonian, tubipora. Etiology may have been the death of the gorgonian (first to go). Nitrates were 10ppm average.
7) Change of tank lights bleaches out 2 brains, remaining zoos and stresses the Fiji. All recover.
8) Switching to an external fuge light drives chaeto growth crazy and now consistently keeps nitrates at 0 ppm
9) Yashia haze continually jumps into the rear sumps, eventually is found dead behind the surface skimmer.
Nasty Visitors
I had them all:
- valonia (bubble algae)
- aiptasia
- cyanobacteria
- hair algae (always stayed small, never spread)
- Love the NC, but, would have gone with a 30G Oceanic and metal halide in retrospect
- Wish I had made a greater effort to improve lighting on the refugium early on
- Out of my control but wish I never added the additional LR that carried in the macroalgae hitchhiker
- Adding a sea star. No nano tank should have one
- When changing your lights, reduce the lighting interval and/or change one bulb at a time. Avoid bleaching and decimating your corals
Final Thoughts After One Year and Myths Debunked
- The single greatest mistakes you can make are stocking your tank early with corals and fish immediately after cycling
- Consistent weekly water changes are the key to nano tank survival. You don't have to protein skim if you choose not to, or, can't afford a skimmer
- There is no better piece of advice than that given by an experienced successful nano reefer
- NEVER EVER dose your tank with anything except for calcium. NEVER EVER dose your tank unless you are testing the additive that you are dosing with and make SURE you have the correct test kit
- Using anything other than pure water, well, you might as well throw your money down the drain
- Crashes happen even with experienced nano reefers
- "Can jump" means just that
- You CAN achieve 0 ppm nitrates. 10ppm is not bad
- Attention to detail and observing your tank may prevent a crash
Initial aquascape during cycling:
First frags:
Cyano outbreak:
Tank at it's peak:
Macroalgae invades:
The 'Plague' comes:
Aftermath: