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Noobie..
- Thread starter Sir Guppy
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Not unlike starting a freshwater one. Need the same nitrogen cycle to happen. Main difference is you need a saltwater mix (used with RO/DI water) for water changes and to top off you need RO/DI water.
Now maintaining is a question that depends on what you plan to keep in the aquarium. I think it's pretty simple if you go with just fish. If you get into corals there's a lot more to know.
Now maintaining is a question that depends on what you plan to keep in the aquarium. I think it's pretty simple if you go with just fish. If you get into corals there's a lot more to know.
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A big mistake that many new salt keepers make is on topping off the tank due to water loss due to evaporation. When doing this do NOT add salt to the added water as water evaporates but salt does not. It is different when doing a water change as you are actually removing water AND the salt the water contains. In this case you do add salt to the new water as you are removing salt along with the removed water. I suggest getting a hydrometer to test salinity. A simple unit is cheap and can save you from killing the tank.
As to the substrate it has been many years since I've done salt but, if I did today, I'd still use the same substrate that being aragonite. While there well may be exceptions most salt fish want a high PH in the area of 8.0 and aragonite is a natural PH buffer that will raise the PH level. The problem is that most water sources you are likely to use for water changes are going to have too low of a PH.
Now as to fish population I suggest that you go with simple and hardy beasties. At least until you gain experience I would suggest such as damsels, clowns, blow fish and some anemones for the bottom. These are all VERY hardy and forgiving as to water conditions.
What I've said is just general stuff. If you take this on we would need more info such as the tank size, PH of the source water and if the tank would be straight salt or a 'live' tank with such as live coral.
Since you are new to this keep it as simple to start as possible and do NOT trust a fish store to give you good advice. Oh, and if you ever see what looks like a sick fish, NEVER add antibiotics to a salt tank as it will kill the tank. A fresh water tank can have the good bacteria survive moderate doses of an antibiotic but, unless things have changed, a salt tank's good bacteria cannot. Without the bacteria colonies a salt tank is dead.
As to the substrate it has been many years since I've done salt but, if I did today, I'd still use the same substrate that being aragonite. While there well may be exceptions most salt fish want a high PH in the area of 8.0 and aragonite is a natural PH buffer that will raise the PH level. The problem is that most water sources you are likely to use for water changes are going to have too low of a PH.
Now as to fish population I suggest that you go with simple and hardy beasties. At least until you gain experience I would suggest such as damsels, clowns, blow fish and some anemones for the bottom. These are all VERY hardy and forgiving as to water conditions.
What I've said is just general stuff. If you take this on we would need more info such as the tank size, PH of the source water and if the tank would be straight salt or a 'live' tank with such as live coral.
Since you are new to this keep it as simple to start as possible and do NOT trust a fish store to give you good advice. Oh, and if you ever see what looks like a sick fish, NEVER add antibiotics to a salt tank as it will kill the tank. A fresh water tank can have the good bacteria survive moderate doses of an antibiotic but, unless things have changed, a salt tank's good bacteria cannot. Without the bacteria colonies a salt tank is dead.
Calcium: Ocean water is typically 425ppm
pH: The optimum pH value for a reef tank is between 8.1 and 8.4, and preferably as stable as possible.
Salnity: 35 ppt is same as ocean water. Reefs should have 32 ppt to 35 ppt salinity
KH (dKH): Seawater is typically 7 dKH. Reef alkalinity should ideally be maintained at 3–6 meq/L (8–17 dKH). It is advisable to make large adjustments slowly to avoid overshooting intended level or shocking corals and inverts. Each (Seachem Reef Carbonate) dose will raise alkalinity by about 0.25 meq/L.
My 3 gallon reef tank stays around 8.1 to 8.3 pH. I do water changes close to once per week. I dose Seachem Reef Carbonate as needed. If calcium is low is use Kalkwasser RO/DI water mix to increase calcium, KH, and pH. If pH and KH are good I may use Seachem Reef Complete to up Calcium.
One thing to note about keeping pH higher is make sure there's isn't a lid that blocks air exchange. if you have fish prone to jumping out or malicious cats that have access to the top of the tank, put a mesh type of lid on the top of the tank.
pH: The optimum pH value for a reef tank is between 8.1 and 8.4, and preferably as stable as possible.
Salnity: 35 ppt is same as ocean water. Reefs should have 32 ppt to 35 ppt salinity
KH (dKH): Seawater is typically 7 dKH. Reef alkalinity should ideally be maintained at 3–6 meq/L (8–17 dKH). It is advisable to make large adjustments slowly to avoid overshooting intended level or shocking corals and inverts. Each (Seachem Reef Carbonate) dose will raise alkalinity by about 0.25 meq/L.
My 3 gallon reef tank stays around 8.1 to 8.3 pH. I do water changes close to once per week. I dose Seachem Reef Carbonate as needed. If calcium is low is use Kalkwasser RO/DI water mix to increase calcium, KH, and pH. If pH and KH are good I may use Seachem Reef Complete to up Calcium.
One thing to note about keeping pH higher is make sure there's isn't a lid that blocks air exchange. if you have fish prone to jumping out or malicious cats that have access to the top of the tank, put a mesh type of lid on the top of the tank.
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i agree with the damselfish and clowns, both are very hardy. you should hold off on adding any anemones until the tank has been running for at least 6 months, or until you have healthy and fast growth of coralline algae. anemones are extremely fragile and they will detach themselves and float around until they find a better location, if your lighting is not suitable. you’ll also need to get powerheads and filter covers (a lot of companies make 3D printed covers that fit your power head/filter perfectly) so your anemone doesn’t get sucked in and killed.
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