No Filter

bolivian_d

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Hey,

I just purchased a betta, it has its own 5gal tank with a filter and light. At the moment I'm not using either because I don't have any available outlets. Most of the literature I've read says it is OK to not use a filter, and that it may in fact be a good idea if it causes too much disturbance of the water level. I will of course do frequent every second day partial water changes (50%) but this does not ensure 0 ammonia, in fact it is likely that there will always be some level of ammonia existent in the tank.

I would never do this with any of my other tanks or fish. Why is it ok to go filterless with a betta? Is it because the standard of care is low, or are they really just tough as nails? And if they are, does this still ensure an equal quality of life with those tanks with filters?
 
IMHO, having no filter long term is not a good move.

I have found that sponge filters hooked up to a small air pump are best for Bettas because they provide very little water disturbance.


Without a filter, even changing water daily, you will have a hard time keeping water quality under control.


I noticed that you have not mentioned a heater. A heater is essential as Bettas need to be kept at around 26 degrees celcius for them to remain happy and for their immune systems to be efficient. A 50w heater would be adequate for a 5 gallon tank.
 
Basically, they ARE tough. They've got to be, because they've been abused by idiots keeping them in glorified drinking cups for so many generations that any betta that couldn't take a considerable amount of knocking around died before it had a chance to reproduce. I know of bettas being kept in 1 litre of water, water change 100% once a week. They lose almost none. Obviously it's not good for them long term at all, but they will survive it. They are more tolerant of ammonia than most fish because ammonia is toxic by interfering with the gills. Bettas, being air breathers, do not rely on the gills as much as most fish. It's still bad for them.

There's a product called API Ammo-lock. I can get it at most local pet stores so you probably can to, or failing that you can get it off the net. I found this mob very good, they delivered very fast and didn't muck us around at all: www.theaquariumshop.com.au
If you use that at the recommended dosage, it would take your water changes down to 40% twice a week by locking up all the ammonia. My betta tanks are unfortunately way smaller than I would like, around 2 gallons, so I use ammo-lock in all of them. I change the water more frequently because they are smaller. I'm not sure whether it generates an ammonia reading or not but even if ammonia shows up, it's not in a toxic form.

So it's not cruel to keep them without filters but IMO you do need to take precautions. If you keep the ammonia level consistently under 0.25ppm you should be okay.
 
I say if you have the filter use it the fish will not die do 2 too clean of water. Also I woud suggest no more that 15 days between that kind of water change. That much water can change the balance of water quite a bit and will be a downside in the long run. Longer and longer to cycle.
 
I noticed that you have not mentioned a heater. A heater is essential as Bettas need to be kept at around 26 degrees celcius for them to remain happy and for their immune systems to be efficient. A 50w heater would be adequate for a 5 gallon tank.

I won't need one, at least for the next six months anyway. Room temp heats up my other tank to 30C (which does have a heater that is set at 25C).

I say if you have the filter use it the fish will not die do 2 too clean of water. Also I woud suggest no more that 15 days between that kind of water change.

As I said, that isn't an option as my other tank is occupying a power pack from the last available outlet. I'll see if there is somethign I can work out though.

That much water can change the balance of water quite a bit and will be a downside in the long run. Longer and longer to cycle.

I can't imagine that it would be by a lot seeing I'm using tank water from my other tank. Constant temp and constant balance. I understand the risks of spreading disease but most can be avoided, I have a pretty stringent maintenance routine.
 
if youdo decide to get a filter the sponge ones that run off an airline are very cheap & easy to use. we have a fluval 1 mini internal filter in our 40L betta tank i had to but an extension on the outlet pipe though to slow the current down. we do have 5 khulis & 2 panda corys & amano shrimp in there as well though so with us its a necessity.
 
Why is it ok to go filterless with a betta? Is it because the standard of care is low, or are they really just tough as nails?

It isn't ok. End of. The standard of care is exactly the same as any other tropical fish. Just because a fish is supposedly tough, it does not mean it is perfectly acceptable to keep it in substandard conditions permanently.

Most of the literature I've read says it is OK to not use a filter, and that it may in fact be a good idea if it causes too much disturbance of the water level.

Sponge filters produce little to no current and are used in fry tanks . If it's gentle enough for fry it's certainly fine for a betta.

You honestly don't have a single plug anywhere at all? You have no extension sockets? You only need two plugs at the very most, one if your house actually is that warm. A sponge filter is run from an airpump and needs only 1 plug. and an extension can provide that. Get a 4 plug extension and you can plug your power pack from the other tank into it.

If you can get a 5 gallon "Fish r fun" brand tank, then you only need 1 plug as the filter and lighting all run off the same unit and a single large plug. I have this tank and only use 2 plugs of my extension, one for the light and built in filter, and one for the heater.
 
Hi, bolivian_d
Do you have enough ambient light to keep plants?
Is your other tank near enough, and is the light/canopy suitable for interchangeable use on both tanks?
Even if the sizes aren't the same, if near enough to balance safely on top, or if it's possible to rig a way to do so, (and height above water level reduces too-bright light as well,) that can work, although many name-brand tanks do have built in systems so that such jury-rigging isn't possible.
I have tanks sharing canopy lights - and it's enough to keep plants alive.
I have a (non-Walstad) 10 gallon betta tank sitting on a board across the tops of 2 sturdy wooden bedside tables, with my bedside lamp providing enough light to keep a half-dozen or so Water Wisteria and 4-Leafed Clover alive, albeit together with ambient and some degree of daylight.
That's also one of several tanks having box filters running off a single shared pump.
May not look very nice, but it does the job well enough.

Your entire tank - filter or no - can act as a bio-filtration system, and plants help with --- everything.

http://www.aquariumfish.com/aquariumfish/d...788&search=

... Probably the biggest repository of helpful bacteria in your aquarium occurs on the surface of each piece of gravel. Each grain, though appearing smooth to the eye, is rough at a microscopic level, and thus provides a huge surface area for the growth of helpful bacteria. So, it follows that if you sterilize your gravel, you will destroy most of the biofiltration in your tank. Not knowing this, hobbyists sometimes remove the gravel for cleaning and have been known to boil it, scald it or (worst of all) use bleach or soap to sterilize the gravel. This is a huge mistake! It kills off the nitrifying bacteria and will allow ammonia levels to increase rapidly in the water. Gravel should never be cleaned with anything but plain, aquarium-temperature water. ...

... Safely Maintaining Filters
The most significant part of your aquarium maintenance is likely to involve the cleaning of one or more filters. Filters don’t remove waste — they just collect it. Nitrifying bacteria grow on every solid surface in the tank, including gravel, glass, plants, decorations and filter media. Indeed, most filters contain some type of biomedia designed to provide plenty of surface area for the growth of helpful bacteria. So, it’s best to take steps to preserve the bacteria on this media when possible.

http://ezinearticles.com/?Nitrogen-Cycle-A...s&id=328078

... Ammonia (NH4) is assimilated in more than one way. Plants (such as Hornwort) and algae can assimilate ammonia and ammonium directly for the biosynthesis. The remaining bulk of decomposed byproducts are utilized by bacteria in a process called nitrification. Ammonia does not last long in a healthy aquarium environment, fortunately. Nitrifying bacteria such as Nitrosomonas quickly break down ammonia into less toxic Nitrite (NO2). During this process, specific species of nitrifying bacteria strip the ammonium of its hydrogen molecules as an energy source. Oxygen molecules are then affixed to the stripped nitrogen, forming the oxide nitrite (NO2).
Another group of bacteria (Nitrobacter ) utilize the enzyme nitrite oxidase that is then responsible for converting nitrite into nitrate (NO3). This nitrate can either be used by plants as a nutrient source, or can be further broken down into nitrogen gas (N2) through the activity of anaerobic bacteria such as Pseudomonas . ...

http://www.malloftheworld.com/aquarium/par...tm#Introduction

... Comparing a plant to a plastic filter, mechanically, the filter wins the contest because plants can't remove any waste from the aquarium. They can, however, convert much of this waste to plant food.
Most experts would agree that biological filtering (using aerobic bacteria) is the most important means of maintaining water quality in the fish tank. The biological filter requires that the toxins produced by fish waste and excess food be broken down in stages via the nitrogen cycle. For new hobbyists, this means that different types of bacteria must break down deadly ammonia (or ammonium) produced in the decay of the waste, to a slightly less toxic nitrite and finally the least toxic nitrate. Plants use the same bacteria system. The roots and base of a plant are loaded with good guy bacteria and, in fact, plants are often used to start (seed) new aquariums. But, plants have other benefits not found in filters. Plants love ammonia and consume large quantities with no need to wait for it to be broken down by bacteria. Typical biological filters can't break down waste beyond nitrates, so this last by-product tends to accumulate and can become deadly at high levels. Plants, under certain conditions can consume nitrates. Many aquariums also have problems with excess phosphate that filters can't remove. Plants can, and do, remove substantial amounts of phosphate from the water.

Aesthetically, plants certainly look a whole lot better than any filter design I have seen to date. In retrospect, I guess it's not so surprising; after all, Mother Nature has had millions of years to perfect her methods. Plastic filters have not even been around a century. ...

http://www.aquabotanic.com/plants_and_biol..._filtration.htm

PLANTS and BIOLOGICAL FILTRATION

by Diana Walstad

http://www.sciencedirect.com/science?_ob=A...9037fe2c1a76d0b

Abstract
Aquatic plants are quite effective in separating metals from polluted waters. A promising method using aquatic plants to sorb metals from secondary treated municipal wastewater is examined in the study. Traditional sewage treatment plants with secondary treatment facilities are not able to remove heavy metals efficiently from the wastewater. In Varanasi, the sewage is mixed with industrial effluents containing high concentrations of heavy metals such as Cr (1.2), Cd (0.09), Cu (0.11), Zn (0.92), Fe (1.8) and Ni (0.07) mg L−1. Eichhornia crassipes, Pistia stratiotes, Lemna minor, Azolla pinnata, and Spirodela polyrhiza were tested for their heavy metal removal capacity from the secondary treated municipal wastewater. Accumulation of heavy metal was higher in roots as compared to leaves. The preferential sequence of percent removal by the selected aquatic macrophytes was Fe > Cr > Cu > Cd > Zn > Ni. Statistical analysis revealed a positive and significant correlation between percent removal of heavy metals from the wastewater and increase in the plant tissues.

You might want to try packing in as many fast-growing plants as you reasonably can and adding a wee dash of Flourish or other fert. as required.
If light levels are low, slow-growing is better than nothing - by a long shot.
It'll make all the difference in your fish's world.
 

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