Nitrate levels...

[jaylach]

Sigh, all is fine with my tank but I can't seem to get my nitrates below 10-15 PPM. With ammonia and nitrites at a solid zero PPM I know that the tank is totally fine but I'd like to get the nitrates under 10 PPM but have had no luck. Even after a 30-40% water change the nitrate test shows the same. Hmmmmm, mayhaps I should test my tap water for nitrates...

Anyway, any insight for lowering nitrates other than the simple stuff such as not over feeding? I also do NOT want to add chemicals to do this.

 

[Byron]

Yes, test your tap water. Nitrates occurring from the tap water is one issue, while nitrates occurring totally within the aquarium is quite another. The methods to deal with them depend upon which source.

Another thing, if the test is the API liquid, the test tube after you add Regent #1 must be shaken for 2 full minutes. The instruction used to say 30 seconds, may still say that, but it has to be 2 minutes or the result will be inaccurate. The test may have been corrected, but if not, here you go.

 

[jaylach]

Yes, test your tap water. Nitrates occurring from the tap water is one issue, while nitrates occurring totally within the aquarium is quite another. The methods to deal with them depend upon which source.

Another thing, if the test is the API liquid, the test tube after you add Regent #1 must be shaken for 2 full minutes. The instruction used to say 30 seconds, may still say that, but it has to be 2 minutes or the result will be inaccurate. The test may have been corrected, but if not, here you go.

The instructions with my API liquid test test kit says to just invert the tube several times after adding regent #1. Then it says to shake the regent 2 bottle for 30 seconds and add to the test tube then cap and shake for 1 minute. Then let it set for 5 minutes. From what you have said I take it that this is not correct?

 

[Rocky998]

Yes, test your tap water. Nitrates occurring from the tap water is one issue, while nitrates occurring totally within the aquarium is quite another. The methods to deal with them depend upon which source.

Another thing, if the test is the API liquid, the test tube after you add Regent #1 must be shaken for 2 full minutes. The instruction used to say 30 seconds, may still say that, but it has to be 2 minutes or the result will be inaccurate. The test may have been corrected, but if not, here you go.

TWO MINUTES??
Bruh... If anyone expects my arm to last that long, no LOL

 

[Byron]

The instructions with my API liquid test test kit says to just invert the tube several times after adding regent #1. Then it says to shake the regent 2 bottle for 30 seconds and add to the test tube then cap and shake for 1 minute. Then let it set for 5 minutes. From what you have said I take it that this is not correct?

They may have corrected the regent/instructions if you have a recent test kit. I know about 5-6 years ago this was brought to light. Try it for 2 minutes and see if you get a different result from just inverting. Previously it was 30 seconds in the instructions for both regents, hence this may have been corrected. Another check you can do for the tap water is look at the website of the water authority and see if they list nitrate.

 

[jaylach]

They may have corrected the regent/instructions if you have a recent test kit. I know about 5-6 years ago this was brought to light. Try it for 2 minutes and see if you get a different result from just inverting. Previously it was 30 seconds in the instructions for both regents, hence this may have been corrected. Another check you can do for the tap water is look at the website of the water authority and see if they list nitrate.

Not tonight but I WILL try your suggestion. Still, even if the results are different, I will have no way to know which is actually correct. I guess the bottom line here is that I'm being rather picky. My current water tests are actually OK.

 

[Byron]

Not tonight but I WILL try your suggestion. Still, even if the results are different, I will have no way to know which is actually correct. I guess the bottom line here is that I'm being rather picky. My current water tests are actually OK.

We can sort this out if you like. I'm off to supper now myself, but there is tomorrow!

 

[Fishmanic]

instead of shaking for like 1 or 2 minutes, you could just buy the Salifert Nitrate test kit. No vigorous shaking required...just a gentle swirling of the test vial. And the results are more accurate and easier to read.

 

[AbbeysDad]

I'm no expert BUT no stranger to high nitrates (see My Nitrate Fight)! You might also find value in Lowering Aquarium Nitrates.
So I agree that you must test your source water for nitrates as it's quite common these days, especially in agricultural areas to find high nitrates in source water.

ALSO, seldom discussed is the use of chloramine to treat water. Unfortunately chloramine is a combination of ammonia and chlorine. This makes it very effective to kill bacteria. Aquarium conditioners break the chlorine/ammonia bond, neutralize the chlorine, and detoxify the ammonia long enough for beneficial bacteria and/or plants to process the ammonia. HOWEVER, without ALOT of fast growing plants, this will soon translate into much higher (than expected) nitrates! Folks with chloramine treated water should only do modest partial water changes and look to other means to better purify aquarium water.

For a deep dive, check out Filtration and Water Quality.

Best wishes and good luck in YOUR nitrate fight.

 

[jaylach]

I guess it about time I got back on this.

After letting my tap water set for a couple of days the API nitrate test shows maybe 0.25 PPM.

Doing a tank water check at the same time shows nitrates now at 10 PPM at most.

I don't think that I have an issue.

 

[Byron]

I guess it about time I got back on this.

After letting my tap water set for a couple of days the API nitrate test shows maybe 0.25 PPM.

Doing a tank water check at the same time shows nitrates now at 10 PPM at most.

I don't think that I have an issue.

The level (at 10 ppm) is not serious, but it does indicate a problem if it goes from less than 1 ppm up to 10 ppm. My tanks never did this. The fish load, the amount fed, water changes, substrate vacuum, filter cleaning, and live plants should keep nitrates just about the same for weeks, months and years. Provided the nitrates are occurring within the tank and not coming in the fresh water as it seems. And as low as possible, consistently.

 

[jaylach]

The level (at 10 ppm) is not serious, but it does indicate a problem if it goes from less than 1 ppm up to 10 ppm. My tanks never did this. The fish load, the amount fed, water changes, substrate vacuum, filter cleaning, and live plants should keep nitrates just about the same for weeks, months and years. Provided the nitrates are occurring within the tank and not coming in the fresh water as it seems. And as low as possible, consistently.

My tank's nitrate level has consistently lowered as I've cut back on plant nutrients. I think I'm still finding my tank's balance.

 

[jaylach]

The level (at 10 ppm) is not serious, but it does indicate a problem if it goes from less than 1 ppm up to 10 ppm. My tanks never did this. The fish load, the amount fed, water changes, substrate vacuum, filter cleaning, and live plants should keep nitrates just about the same for weeks, months and years. Provided the nitrates are occurring within the tank and not coming in the fresh water as it seems. And as low as possible, consistently.

Oh shoot! I kind of missed what you said Byron and just caught. Mayhaps I said badly but the nitrates under 1 or about PPM on nitrates was testing tap water. The tank water has been pretty consistent at about 10 PPM on nitrates or mayhaps a little less. After quite a while not doing I just did a full test this evening. I don't see any issue.

PH -- 6.6 - 6.8 a bit on the low side for my rope fish but still well within range. Also on the low side for my Panda Garras but still well in range. About perfect for my cichlids.

Ammonia is a 0 or really close, not an issue.

Nitrite is also zero.

Nitrates are still hanging at around 10 PPM or a little under.

I just can't see any indication other than the tank has not only cycled but has also established. Been 2-3 weeks since my last test on everything and all still seems consistent. Fish seem totally happy and active and my plants are going crazy. I don't see any down side.

 

[Goose3080]

Oh shoot! I kind of missed what you said Byron and just caught. Mayhaps I said badly but the nitrates under 1 or about PPM on nitrates was testing tap water. The tank water has been pretty consistent at about 10 PPM on nitrates or mayhaps a little less. After quite a while not doing I just did a full test this evening. I don't see any issue.

PH -- 6.6 - 6.8 a bit on the low side for my rope fish but still well within range. Also on the low side for my Panda Garras but still well in range. About perfect for my cichlids.

Ammonia is a 0 or really close, not an issue.

Nitrite is also zero.

Nitrates are still hanging at around 10 PPM or a little under.

I just can't see any indication other than the tank has not only cycled but has also established. Been 2-3 weeks since my last test on everything and all still seems consistent. Fish seem totally happy and active and my plants are going crazy. I don't see any down side.

Nitrates are not part of the cycle process, they are the waste product right at the end of the cycle, there is no bacteria to convert them into anything else, the only way to get rid of them is to do water changes or get some live nitrate eating plants, 10ppm on nitrates (NO3) is perfectly fine though, you fish can handle upto 40ppm, mine constantly hover around 10-20ppm, ive just added some more live plants into my tank, got to give them a little time to start working, but hopefully they'll get it down a bit.

ive just had a battle and a half to get rid of Nitrites out of my tanks, (NO2), dont confuse this with Nitrates (NO3), Nitrites (NO2) and Ammonia (NH3) are the killers.

 

[jaylach]

Nitrates are not part of the cycle process, they are the waste product right at the end of the cycle, there is no bacteria to convert them into anything else, the only way to get rid of them is to do water changes or get some live nitrate eating plants, 10ppm on nitrates (NO3) is perfectly fine though, you fish can handle upto 40ppm, mine constantly hover around 10-20ppm, ive just added some more live plants into my tank, got to give them a little time to start working, but hopefully they'll get it down a bit.

ive just had a battle and a half to get rid of Nitrites out of my tanks, (NO2), dont confuse this with Nitrates (NO3), Nitrites (NO2) and Ammonia (NH3) are the killers.

I'm not really sure as to what you are trying to tell me. I know the nitrogen cycle and realize that nitrates are the end result. My ammonia and nitrates are zero or close enough to not matter. With my tank being planted I want to see some nitrates. With what I have I consider 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites and 10 or less on nitrates just about as perfect as you can get with a heavily planted tank. Is there something I'm missing??