Need Help Building Stands...

[ICEEGRL]

I need to build a simple stand that holds more than one tank.
I need one that will hold 2 55g tanks, one for 2 20g long tanks, and one for 3 10g tanks.
I wanted to do them with 2x4s if possible. I need it to be really easy. (I don't have power tools) I will be working with a hand saw and hammer/screw drivers and have never done anything like this before.
Any ideas that are cheap and easy? I don't know where to start. I just want something strong enough to hold them so the new tanks can be set up. I have limited space. I will try for something pretty later. For now I just need to know how to build a really sturdy frame like people use in fishrooms.(not the butt ugly ones) I want to get them up off the floor so I can see them too.
Anyone know how to do this? If so easy directions (and pics if possible) would be very much appreciated!
Thank You!

 

[ICEEGRL]

Does the lack of response mean that all stands that hold more than one tank are too hard for a beginner without power tools?

I have found a few patterns while searching, but they are all more fancy than what I am looking for. I don't want to do cabinets and doors and hoods and all that right now. I just want to build a sturdy frame stand that doesn't look like crap.
I can design one. It isn't that hard to do something that looks ok. The problem is with the sturdy part. I know nothing about carpentry, and it will be holding a lot of weight. I don't want it to fall apart with my tanks and fish on it.
I have been doing a lot of searching and reading. I have learned that the boards have to be put together where the nails/screws are not holding the actual weight. Now I have to figure out how to do that. One level/tank is fairly easy. It is when you do the second level that it gets complicated.
I do plan to secure them to the wall so they can't fall over if bumped, I am just so afraid of not having it supported in the right places and the tanks crashing to the floor.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks!

 

[Tolak]

Sorry, I didn't even see this one! For a double 55 you will need to use 2x6's for the 4" length, unless you don't mind a 2x4 across the middle. Let me dig up some pics & such, as I have a couple of 20's over a 55 that with a couple of mods could hold a pair of 55's.

The double 20 & triple 10 is a piece of cake, I've built them, like I said, let me dig through imageshack.

 

[Tolak]

Ok… some quick pics. Here’s the triple 10 gallon I’ve had running for a few years;

A double stand that will hold a 20 long, a 20 high, or a 29. The first pic has a couple of 20 highs, the second a couple of 29’s;

The 55 with the pair of 20’s is towards the back of this pic. It’s made with 2x4’s, with a third pair of legs on the bottom to hold the 55. The top has about ¼†to 3/16†deflection in the middle, which doesn’t matter with the 20’s, but sure would with a 55. This is where I would replace the 4†2x4’s with 2x6’s, this would eliminate the problem.

These are all made with treated 2x4’s, with 3†deck screws. The frames that hold the tanks do not rest on the 2x4’s, they are attached to each leg with 3 screws. Divide the tank weight by 12, and you will see that each 3†screw is holding anywhere from less than a gallon to a little over 3 gallons of weight.

I designed the bigger racks to store buckets or milkcrates underneath, as low tanks are a pain to do maintenance on. In the case of the triple 10, I figured that one 10 gallon tank is no big deal to work with out of all the tanks.

If you want I can figure out some measurements, as long as you let me know the tank measurements. I generally build the frames that hold the tanks with the outside edge an inch bigger than the actual tank size, this lets the edges of a standard floating base tank sit centered on the 2x4. It also makes it easier to slide tanks in & out when they are on end, as I originally designed them to be. I also design them with about half the tank depth above them, meaning a 16†deep 20 high has about 8†above it, a 22†deep 55 has about 11â€. I also had to consider the space they go in, as the vent in the fishroom sits at 6’, the ceiling is about 6’7â€.

Some of those pics are a couple of years old, I have since redone the fishroom twice, and spun the racks so the tanks sit with the short end facing out.

This is how I originally designed them knowing it was going to happen more sooner than later. You could easily make them with the legs on the side so there is nothing obstructing the view from the long side of the tanks.

 

[ICEEGRL]

This is what I was looking for! Thank you!
Now... I have a few questions...

Does it matter if the stand is longer than the tank? If I put supports in going across the bottom where the tank will actually sit, can I make it longer to have room on each end to set stuff for when I am working on the tank? I was even thinking of adding those little metal corner supports and the T braces to give it further support. I have become paranoid about a tank falling.
I read some where that the tank has to go to the corners because that is where the main support is.
I was thinking that if I added a few more of the center pieces on the inside of the frame that it should give it enough support so that it could be moved over some or centered leaving some work space on either side? Would that work?
How thick is the sheet of wood that the tank is sitting on?
Does it matter if the legs are on the inside or outside of the frame? If I wanted to close the sides in later and turn the extra space into cabinets which would be better?

I don't have any 2x6s. I do have a lot of 2x4s. I was trying to use what I already have. Can I double the 2x4s and get the same results, or should I go shopping?
My lumber is not treated. Will stain and varnish or exterior paint work to protect it from the water and such? I do tend to have a lot of small spills.
I do like the idea of having room for buckets underneath. I am still doing all my water changes with buckets and a simple hand vac. I am still doing everything the hard way.
Thanks again for the pics and all. This helps a lot!
Amanda

 

[Tolak]

You certainly can make the stand longer than the tank. If you look at the second picture you can see that the tanks are 6†shorter than the stand. You can also see where there are a couple of screws holding a crossmember, on the lower left beneath the tank. There’s an air pump sitting there, this was before I set up a centralized air system. Making it a little wider is not a problem, but try to think ahead for the next common tank size up. I knew eventually the 20’s would get upgraded to 29’s. The length of a standard 20 long is 30â€, if you made it large enough to hold a 30, which would be 36â€, you would have 6†to work with, and room for an upgrade should you ever need to.

I theory the wood for the frames should stack on top of the legs, this means doubled up 2x4’s for the frame and legs. This is overkill for tanks of this size, if you use 3 screws per leg, and 4 legs, you have 12 screws holding 20-30 gallons. This is less than 3 gallons, or 24 pounds per screw. Those little metal corners & such can’t hurt, and if you also screw them to the wall they won’t go anywhere.

If you do want to build a cabinet around it in the future you will either have to bring up the frames with a 2x4 in the design I’m using, or bring up the legs to surface level if you were to put them on the inside. I planned on leaving mine as they are, the legs on the outside give a slightly wider base, adding stability. I also worry about tanks falling, not so much as creating a river across my basement floor & loosing a bunch of fish so much as when I crawl under them on occasion to unplug & plug in heater & lights. A pair of 29’s, or a 55 & a couple of 20’s would hurt.

I used ½†plywood for under the tanks, this helps with using smaller tanks than the stand is designed for, or using it as a workspace when I pull a tank. Doubled up 2x4’s would actually be stronger than a single 2x6, especially if you use glue and screws to attach them together. The only reason I used treated wood is that the untreated 2x4’s that were available at the time looked like giant skis or corkscrews. The treated wood was nice & straight. You could stain & finish with a polyurethane varnish, or a good oil base paint.

I’ve seen automated water change systems, and huge systems on a centralized sump filter, and they still have some buckets around. In many instances nothing beats the good old bucket.

 

[ICEEGRL]

Thanks! You are so cool!
I am going to do some thinking and measuring, and I will get back to you very soon!
For now I need to sleep. I have to get up soon, and I haven't gone down yet...

 

[ICEEGRL]

It isn't going well. I decided to do my stand where I can put wood around it and make it look nice.
I have almost finished the frame and ready to put the outside on...

It is not stable and really heavy!!! Not to mention that I will have to climb a ladder to get to the top tank. I am only 5'2" and the bottom of the top tank will be at 52". That isn't going to work. I am going to have to scale it down a little. I am just not sure how. I need help.

I took some pics. I have to get them off of the camera. I will post them and the sizes in a little bit. I am going to get the pics loaded on the pc.

Be back in a few!

 

[ICEEGRL]

THERE IS NO BROWSE BUTTON!!!!!!!!!!!!

I can't add pics without bowse. I pull them from my pics on my pc. Now what do I do?

 

[Tolak]

Download the pics to imageshack, copy & paste the code for forums.

Anything you build yourself can be modified to suit your needs, that's the beautiful thing about diy.

Edit to add;

Does my prevous post, #6, have some screwy characters in it? Some of it looks like some sort of Greek alphabet where there should be an apostrophe.

 

[ICEEGRL]

Yes... strange stuff in #6.

I don't know how to do all of that stuff. I'm not very good with a computer. I have so much to learn. I had to get someone come show me how to post pics. I used a pic site for a little while, but I kept having trouble getting them loaded there and moved here. That is why I started doing them with browse.

If I can't get browse... I guess I just won't be able to put up pics.

 

[Tolak]

I sent you a pm explaining imageshack a little bit.

 

[ICEEGRL]

Ok... Here is the deal...

I made it with 2 x 4's.

top frame

24" space

second frame

16" space (I think)

bottom frame

the frames are 34" x 14"

the bottom space will fit a 10g. The next level and top will fit a 20g long.
I made it kind of like yours except I moved the legs to the ends, and I added in an extra piece (leg) on the inside so it had double support at the corners between all of the levels.

I don't know how many cross supports you had in yours... I had the rectangle and then 3 supports in the inside.

I used 3" screws, and added small corner braces.

I used 3/8" plywood for the tops.

It isn't very stable (It will flip very easy), and it is too tall.

How much space do you leave above the tank for access if you are going to enclose it? I am trying to figure out how to make it shorter without having to have the either of the 20g tanks on the floor. I know I can take some off of the bottom. I won't be putting a tank down there. I will just be doing the 2 20 longs.

What should I do?

Thanks for helping

 

[Tolak]

I put about 50% of the tank height above the tank, that means if a 10 gallon tank is 12" tall, there is about 6" above it, then add 3 1/2" for the 2x4 until the next level. Mine measure 22" tank bottom to tank bottom for the 10 gallons, 30" tank bottom to tank bottom for the 29's.

I've found that you can cheat about 1" off that 50% space, so there is actually a 5" opening above the 10 gallons, and 8" above the 29's.

I'm just guesing, but it sounds as if you have about 6" more between tanks than I've got. The top of the 29's are at just shy of 6" in my pictures.

 

[hwoarangtag]

Wow, that's very nice Tolak. I would like to ask how much effort (Time, people and $) did you use to build the triple 10.

Thanks