My Water Bridge Project Is Completed Plus A Tower

Lord Zogat

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Ok guys, here is my Water Bridge project with images of the progress as I make it. I will try to detail issues I come up against as I come to them.

The water bridge will be a small one. I haven't decided on length yet as I still have to decide on a final placement of the 10 gallon tank, but no more than 18 inches in width for my first attempt.

I have decided to bridge a 10 gallon and a 20 gallon. The initial plan was just making a bridge within the 20 gallon tank, but I decided what the heck, I had room for a 10 gallon, and the 10 gallon, filter and heater were only an extra $60 CND

So here are the stats:

10 Gallon
5 - 15 gallon aquatech filter with bio-media
100 watt 25 gallon heater

This tank holds two water filter intakes. One for the 5-15 filter and one for the 20-40 filter from the 20 gallon tank (forces water flow through the two tanks via the bridge). Output of 5-15 filter into this tank


20 Gallon
20-40 gallon aquatech filter with bio media
100 watt 25 gallon heater

This tank has only output water from 20-40 filter.

The internal ornament and plastic plant layout of the tanks will come last once the bridge construction and supports are in place.

Step 1: Leveling the tanks.

Since the cyphon effect will occur between the two tanks caused by the intake of the 20-40 filter being in the 10 gallon tank, the tanks must be level. The water between the two tanks will flow through the bridge and maintain the same water level over all in both tanks. So one tank can not be lower than the water level of the other...or :sad: water spills over.

In this picture of the two tanks, the 10 gallon is shorter in height by about 4 inches. The table it is on helps a bit, then I had to add a 2.5 inch spacer to bring it up to level. (I will cover it up to make it look nicer later on).

wb1.jpg


Step 2: Designing filter intake from one tank to the next.

You can see in the picture above that I have a hose running out of the intake of the 20-40 filter from the 20 gallon tank, into the right corner of the 10 gallon tank.

Step 3: Custom Tops for Easy Access for water changes, cleaning, feeding, etc etc.

The next two pics show the tops of the tanks. I have done away with the hood of the 20 gallon and have placed 1/4 plexi glass custom tops in each tank. This allowed me to decide on the exact placement of the filters and heaters, also the plexi glass over short distances will be enough to support the weight of the bridge. I will cut part of the tops in half, so most of the tank can be very quickly exposed for feeding and cleaning. The plexi glass at 1/4 inch think is reasonbly priced at $4.79 a square foot. I used a scroll saw to cut out the holes for filters and fitting the tops.

wb2.jpg
wb3.jpg


The next steps are cutting the holes for the bridge in the plexi glass top support, cutting the top into two peices for quick access, building and sealing the bridge, adding the bridge, laying out the tank decor, filling and beginning a fishless cycle. Eventually lighting will be added under the shelf right above the tanks, and leds to simulate moon light for night time may also be used. :nod:

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Ok I have the water bridge cut to size. Due to the space restrictions :S and best configuration, for now my water bridge will only be 20 inches long with about 9 inches clear pipe to view through. Maybe later after this has been tested and put to use, I can make it longer if necessary.

The bridge only holds 3 litres of water and weighs almost nothing. So definetly no worries with the plexi glass holding. :good:

I will cut the holes and install the bridge next.

wb4.jpg


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Ok I have the holes cut so the bridge sits in the custom top. I also cut the custom top so the majority of it slides away for quick access. The 1/4 inch thick plexi glass still has enough support weight to keep the bridge held up with no issues.

The bridge with the two peices of plexi glass from each tank.
wb5.jpg


The Bridge on the tanks
wb6.jpg


Other angle shots to show the bridge.
wb7.jpg
wb8.jpg


Next step - adding decor, water, loading the bridge and starting the fishless cycle.

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Ok its all done. Added the decor today, filled it up with water. Loaded most of the bridge with water, lost some putting it in. Had to suck the remaining air out with a hose. Flow is going through the bridge. The large tank is drawing water from the small tank and dumping it into the large tank, so water is passing through the bridge as water level is staying the same between the tanks.

I think it turned out good. May be too many colros for some peoples preferences, but I think it works well and I LIKE IT. Lots of caves and hidey holes in both tanks. I have high features near tube entrances so there is protection near them as well.

One bubble machine puts bubbles in both tanks with flow control.

Next step is fishless cycle and to install a light above the tanks. Hopefully ina few weeks its ready for fish.

Pictures of the two tanks and the bridge:

wb9.jpg
wb10.jpg


The 20 gallon tank
wb11.jpg

wb12.jpg


The 10 Gallon Tank
wb13.jpg

wb14.jpg


I'll post pictures once I get fish and catch them using the bridge.

With a bit of planning, plexi glass custom tops, it was actually very easy to do. One could do the entire process in a day if the tanks are setup ready to go and level!

By the way, the water level would have to drop 2 inches for the bridge water to run out of the bridge.


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After cleaning the tanks and preparing them for fish I decided to re-do the tank layout. The fake slate plastic which floats, is not safe enough for the fish. It tips over too easy so I yanked it all. Found a cool stump ornament at walmart for only $20, looks great in the big tank.

Rearranged some of the ornaments from one tank to another and made it a little easier to see around in the 10 gallon which now hosts the broken ship (use to be center peice of the 20) as well as the castle wall at a better angle. Now I can see in front and behind the castle wall.

Ignore the large plastic hose in the 10 gallon, it was placed to suck up algae gunk as it came through the bridge from the 20 gallon after I kept stirring it up during cleaning. It will be removed.

wb15.jpg

wb16.jpg


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Got some fish today, 10 Platy and a Clown Pleco. I will be adding some Danios tomorrow. As soon as I put the fish in, straight off the truck I had to go to work. When I came back, some of the Platy were in different tanks then when they started!! So the bridge has been used. Not very much though.

I have been watching and managed to catch one in there just before it scooted back to the larger tank. I will try to get better pics for you!!

platy1.jpg


midnight1.jpg


platy2.jpg


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Vertical Tower was added

tower1.jpg
 
So do the tubes from the filters help the water to not siphon out of one of the tanks into the other so it wouldn't overflow?

A tank would only overflow is its lower than the water level of the other bridged tank! Try this to see what I mean...Take two glasses of water, put a hose between the two and fill the hose with water. Lower one glass below the other, the siphon, will cause the water to drain into the lower glass, until it overflows, or the water level between the two glasses balances (only of your lower glass is not completely below the other but just a little bit below the other.)

This is why the smaller 10 gallon tank had to be raised in height by 4 inches so its top was level with the top of the 20 gallon tank.

The tube that runs from the large filter located in the 20 gallon tank, draws water from the 10 gallon and puts the filtered water back into the 20 gallon tank. Since the bridge is filled with water and joins the two tanks, the water level stays equal. Since the filter is putting water into the 20 gallon but not drawing out of it, water is forced through the bridge to keep the two tanks at equal level.

The tanks cannot overflow, since they are level, the tops of the tanks are the same hight. Water cannot build up higher in one tank than the other so long as the bridge stays filled.

IF the bridge fails and releases its water, then the flow between the two tanks stops. Then the intake of the large filter will continue to draw water from the 10 gallon tank until it draws air. I have it high enough up in the 10 gallon tank, that it should start to suck air not long after the bridge fails.

If the power goes out. The filters stop. The Bridge maintains its water.
 
Heh, power went out tonight while away on family outing. Filters just quit, and fired back up again when power came back on, as if nothing happened. :good:
 
Wow that is such a great idea! I love these things (I just found out about them like 5 minutes ago on another topic :p ). :good: :grr:
 
The 2"/50mm water drop will of course, limit the size of water changes you can do, but on the flip, you will be doing a water change on both tanks at the same time since they are now, effectively, a single tank.
 
If you look at the picture called "The Bridge on the Tanks", it would seem that the plexiglass lid has been cut, thus the section not used for supporting the bridge elements could still be raised for feeding/cleaning etc.
 
If you look at the picture called "The Bridge on the Tanks", it would seem that the plexiglass lid has been cut, thus the section not used for supporting the bridge elements could still be raised for feeding/cleaning etc.

Thats correct. 80% of both tanks plexi glass lids lift out and the bridge is still supported in place, lots of room for cleaning and water changes.

Great to see that tower you made for your betta. I have clear acrylic tubing in 3, 4, 5 and 6 inch diameters.
 
Just a note about the plexi glass lids. Since the tank is cycling and the temp is cranked to 90 degrees, the plexi glass slowly warps, I have to keep turning it over so it warps back. If your planning on doing something similar, use a different material while cycling then putting plexi glass on after temp has been brought to normal may help.

Also the water bridge has not failed yet and has been in operation for almost a month, no glues or sealant.
 

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