Fresh_Start
Fish Fanatic
- Joined
- Mar 25, 2004
- Messages
- 170
- Reaction score
- 0
Hello,
I will give a description below of the five years that my 40 gallon Tanganyikan tank was in existence. The tank was bought for me as a Christman present in December of 1998. It was (and still is) 48'' long, 12'' deep, and 16'' inches high. At first glance the tank looks very big due to the length, but it lacks much depth or height to play with.
Part I - The Tank
My plan for the tank was to create a long 'shore' of rocks along the entire back wall of the tank. This would give the fish plenty of hiding places and was what I thought they would like based on my research.
So during the winter I searched for rocks around the area where I lived. Mostly I found granite and sandstone, along with a few rocks I couldn't identify. Once the rocks were home, I boiled them in a big bucket to get them as sterile as possible.
Before placing the rocks in the tank, I added black gravel to the bottom of the tank. I added quite a bit of gravel, around 40 pounds worth if I remember correctly. Then I slowly added the rocks, piling them on top of each other to create several caves along the ridge. The rocks went up to about 4 or 5 inches from the top of the tank. I used aquarium sealent to help keep the rocks stuck together.
For filteration I used a combination of power filters and power heads. The power filter I selected was the Hagen Aqua Clear 300. Rated at 300 gallons per hour, this filter seemed like it had more than enough water flow to keep the tank clean. The Aqua Clear was good at moving and cleaning water but was a bit on the noisy side. To keep noise down, I wedged a pencil between the filter and the aquarium wall and put a couple of books on top of the filter case.
I used two power heads connected to a wave maker for water flow, with each located on opposite sides of the tank. On the left I placed the Penn Plax 'Hammerhead'. Unfortunately this powerhead was poorly balanced and kept pulling it's suction cups off the aquarium wall. The Hammerhead should probably only be used in conjuction with a undergravel filter uplift tube.
On the right I placed the Aquarium Systems Mini-Jet 606. This is really a very weak water pump but works well for pushing water current around a tank. Both devices were placed behind rocks to hide their structures.
The aquarium was covered by two Perfecto hoods, each measuring 24" x 12". Inside of each hood was one 18" fluorescent bulb. I used color enchancing bulbs made by Aquarium Products called Beauty Lights so the fish colors would be highlighted.
I used a 150 watt Aquarium Systems Visi-therm heater to provide heating support to the aquarium's water. The temperature was set at 78F/25.5C, which was the ideal temperature for the fish of Lake Tanganyika according to my research.
The aquarium's water was modified to match as closely as possible the conditions located in Lake Tanganyika. This was done using a products called Cichlid Lake Salt and Tanganyika Buffer, both made by Seachem. The salt contains essential minerals such as magnesium, calcium, sodium, and potassium while the buffer is used to keep the pH between 9.0 and 9.4
The next chapter will cover the fish selected for the tank and how they lived among the rocks.
I will give a description below of the five years that my 40 gallon Tanganyikan tank was in existence. The tank was bought for me as a Christman present in December of 1998. It was (and still is) 48'' long, 12'' deep, and 16'' inches high. At first glance the tank looks very big due to the length, but it lacks much depth or height to play with.
Part I - The Tank
My plan for the tank was to create a long 'shore' of rocks along the entire back wall of the tank. This would give the fish plenty of hiding places and was what I thought they would like based on my research.
So during the winter I searched for rocks around the area where I lived. Mostly I found granite and sandstone, along with a few rocks I couldn't identify. Once the rocks were home, I boiled them in a big bucket to get them as sterile as possible.
Before placing the rocks in the tank, I added black gravel to the bottom of the tank. I added quite a bit of gravel, around 40 pounds worth if I remember correctly. Then I slowly added the rocks, piling them on top of each other to create several caves along the ridge. The rocks went up to about 4 or 5 inches from the top of the tank. I used aquarium sealent to help keep the rocks stuck together.
For filteration I used a combination of power filters and power heads. The power filter I selected was the Hagen Aqua Clear 300. Rated at 300 gallons per hour, this filter seemed like it had more than enough water flow to keep the tank clean. The Aqua Clear was good at moving and cleaning water but was a bit on the noisy side. To keep noise down, I wedged a pencil between the filter and the aquarium wall and put a couple of books on top of the filter case.
I used two power heads connected to a wave maker for water flow, with each located on opposite sides of the tank. On the left I placed the Penn Plax 'Hammerhead'. Unfortunately this powerhead was poorly balanced and kept pulling it's suction cups off the aquarium wall. The Hammerhead should probably only be used in conjuction with a undergravel filter uplift tube.
On the right I placed the Aquarium Systems Mini-Jet 606. This is really a very weak water pump but works well for pushing water current around a tank. Both devices were placed behind rocks to hide their structures.
The aquarium was covered by two Perfecto hoods, each measuring 24" x 12". Inside of each hood was one 18" fluorescent bulb. I used color enchancing bulbs made by Aquarium Products called Beauty Lights so the fish colors would be highlighted.
I used a 150 watt Aquarium Systems Visi-therm heater to provide heating support to the aquarium's water. The temperature was set at 78F/25.5C, which was the ideal temperature for the fish of Lake Tanganyika according to my research.
The aquarium's water was modified to match as closely as possible the conditions located in Lake Tanganyika. This was done using a products called Cichlid Lake Salt and Tanganyika Buffer, both made by Seachem. The salt contains essential minerals such as magnesium, calcium, sodium, and potassium while the buffer is used to keep the pH between 9.0 and 9.4
The next chapter will cover the fish selected for the tank and how they lived among the rocks.