maintaning a pH

metfan581

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It is impossible to matain my pH.
The tank is a 20H.
It is so hard to matain the pH.
Sure I put the bull's eye and prooper 7 in but it only holds the pH for a day.
How can I matain a pH of 6.8-7.0?
 
Whats actually happening. Is it your tap water that is changing or the water once in the tank?
 
Whats the kH of your tank and tap water or water source ?

Whats in the tank ??

I sent the proper pH product back never used it ... don't like putting anything in the tank if I don't know what is in it ... the don't worry products scare me to death.

Good Day ...
 
most experts say "don't use pH chemicals unless you have to."

odds are very good that your tap water lies in the 6 to 8 range. most tropical fish live very well in this range.

at your next water change
(1) check the pH of your water with just the chlorine-removing chemical added

(2) if this pH is between 6 and 8, stop using Proper7. you don't need it.

(3) don't do anything else different. change no more than 1/4 (one-fourth) of the water a pH between 6 and 8 won't hurt most fish, but a very big and sudden change will hurt your fish a lot. if you just stop using the chemicals, regular water changes will slowly and safely change the pH of your tank.

if you have any questions about these instructions, ask them and i know someone will be glad to explain things to you in a nice, respectful manner.
 
I read somewhere that provided your pH is between 4 and 10 they fish won't really care whether it is 6 one day and 8 the next. I am not about to try the theory myself but the article went into reasons why the fish wouldn't care....it all made sense.

Chances are that your water isn't buffered well if your pH is changing that rapidly over the course of a day....
 
Angry_Platy said:
I read somewhere that provided your pH is between 4 and 10 they fish won't really care whether it is 6 one day and 8 the next. I am not about to try the theory myself but the article went into reasons why the fish wouldn't care....it all made sense.

Chances are that your water isn't buffered well if your pH is changing that rapidly over the course of a day....
this is only true provided the change occurs no faster than the fish's ability to adjust (i.e. a tank crash).

every degree difference of pH is 10 times different in terms of actual acidity. a pH of 6 is 100 times more acidic than a pH of 8. this is from the definition of the pH scale.

to minimize the stress to your fish and to minimize the risk of acidic burns, you want your pH to change as gently and slowly as is reasonably possible. so don't rush out and change 75% of your water to adjust your pH so long as it lies in the acceptable range.

a massive water change stresses your fish, disrupts the nitrogen cycle, is inconvenient to handle, and should only be done in specific situations (expert-level or commercial breeding, unfiltered quarantine, a chemical crash, and various other emergencies).

~~edited for correctness~~
 
Chances are that the water compnay you receive your water from add a buffer themselves to stabalise the Ph. This buffer will wear off after a few days. My tap water is a pH of just over 7, after leaving it alone for a week in a bucket, it read just over8. I used a buffer to bring it back down, then introduced bogwood to my tank. When I change water now I dont add a buffer.

The buffers are particularly bad if you have a planted aquarium. They remove all the "goodness" from the water and you may see your leaves going yellow.

Again, I wouldn't worry too much bout pH though. Most community fish react well to change, I mean you can't expect river water in their natural habitat to stay exactly the same can you?

Just make sure your nitrite and ammonia levels are 0!
 
every degree difference of pH is 10 times different in terms of actual acidity. a pH of 8 is 100 times more acidic than a pH of 6. this is from the definition of the pH scale.

is n't a ph of 6 more acidic than a ph of 8. the higher a ph the more akaline it is rather than acidic.
 
d'oh what a mortifying mistake... and i was correcting someone else... please. just lampoon me now and put me out of my misery...

i got everything else right, didn't i? grar... what's worse is this means i now have to study twice as hard for that stupid chem test...
 
pica_nuttalli said:
d'oh what a mortifying mistake... and i was correcting someone else... please. just lampoon me now and put me out of my misery...

i got everything else right, didn't i? grar... what's worse is this means i now have to study twice as hard for that stupid chem test...
:eek: terrible pica. :rofl:
 
Well I'll tell you what I do
I put in the stress coat
to removie chlorine ect from the tap
thet when I test it the nxt day the ph is lower than 6.2
so i add the bull's evy 7.0 neturalizer
then i test the tank the next day it is then 7.0
however
when i test it again the day after it read 7.0
it tested at 6.2 again
how can i matain the ph
i would like to put in drift wood one day (at this rate never because i was told the drift woood would lower the ph)
 
What does the PH out of your tap test at?
Whats the kH of your tank and tap
Chances are your KH is low...this is a measure of carbonate hardness and what keeps pH stable. I use crushed coral in a bag in the filter. Baking soda can also be used, not sure of the dosage off-hand, but needs to be added to new water being added to tank.

Test your tap for pH. If higher than 6.2, test your KH.
 
Is it 6.2 the day after that too? If so, leave it. Most fish will cope with 6.2. Upping it every other day will do more harm than good.

Jon
 

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