I treated my clowns approx 7days ago for parasites because they are a little thin so i was told to treat them,how will i know when it has worked?,and also how long can it be before i can do a WC just am not sure as it was tablets they were treated with and was wondering are they still working in the water.....Cheers
🌟 Exclusive Amazon Black Friday Deals 2024 🌟
Don’t miss out on the best deals of the season! Shop now 🎁
Looking Some Info!
- Thread starter gh74
- Start date
What did you use to treat them? What were the instructions?
Usually waterlife products use a 7-10 day process but I have not used parazin before - I found this http
/www.waterlife.co.uk/waterlife/parazin.htm which says after 10 days replace the tablet if required so I would guess its a 10 day process. So water change after 10 days I would say.
What are you feeding your Clowns? A high protein food will pack size on the quickest, Tetra Prima is good for that as well as meaty snacks like blood worm cubes
Wills
/www.waterlife.co.uk/waterlife/parazin.htm which says after 10 days replace the tablet if required so I would guess its a 10 day process. So water change after 10 days I would say. What are you feeding your Clowns? A high protein food will pack size on the quickest, Tetra Prima is good for that as well as meaty snacks like blood worm cubes
Wills
Cheers Wills Yeah there getting bloodworms in the cube form they really love it as do the other greedy gits in the tank LOL,going to feed them a piece of green pepper am going to put it on a bit of wooden dowling and a weight of plastic plants to keep it weighted
I have never noticed water cloudiness after feeding veg.
Hmmmmm am wondering would it be the live plants,i always seem to get cloudiness after WC'S but thought that the veggies might be doing it now the live plants are popping into my mind,i dont want to put any accu clear into it as for some reason it doesn't clear it just make it more cloudy/
Cloudiness after a water change is normal. It is usually due to a bacterial bloom, though sediment stirred up can also contribute. Some substances added to the water can cause cloudiness as well. And I have known one water conditioner (Big Al's, not sure if you can get this in UK) to cause cloudy water for a day.
As long as the cloudiness clears, mine is usually overnight, no problem.
Do not use Accu-Clear or similar so-called clarifiers. Some (perhaps all) of these work by binding microscopic particulate matter into larger suspended matter that the filter pads can then more easily remove. But these chemicals also bind fish gills which is not good. [Years ago I used Accu-clear, before I realized this, and wondered why the fish suddenly moved to the opposite end of the tank with heavy respiration. An immediate major water change rectified my error, but I will never use these products again.]
Bacterial blooms are actually quite common, and while some can be stubborn, most clear fairly quickly. Cleaning the filter is another cause.
Byron.
As long as the cloudiness clears, mine is usually overnight, no problem.
Do not use Accu-Clear or similar so-called clarifiers. Some (perhaps all) of these work by binding microscopic particulate matter into larger suspended matter that the filter pads can then more easily remove. But these chemicals also bind fish gills which is not good. [Years ago I used Accu-clear, before I realized this, and wondered why the fish suddenly moved to the opposite end of the tank with heavy respiration. An immediate major water change rectified my error, but I will never use these products again.]
Bacterial blooms are actually quite common, and while some can be stubborn, most clear fairly quickly. Cleaning the filter is another cause.
Byron.
Cheers Byron,I was using accu clear but through it out,even after a WC the tank seems to still be cloudy for days,its cloudy at present so a WC is going to be done tomorrow i would love to have crystal clear water like what i have in my other tank.
Each aquarium is biologically different from others. I have seven tanks running at present. At the moment all are crystal clear, but over the past three years I have seen one of them become slightly cloudy for several weeks, and another for a few months. Then both literally cleared overnight.
There are a lot of organics in tap water (despite the chlorine). When dechlorinator is used on replacement water, it allows the bacteria to consume these organics, and the bacteria we are here talking about can reproduce very fast compared to nitrifying bacteria.
The bacteria responsible for bacterial blooms are heterotrophs. Heterotrophic bacteria cannot synthesize their own food so they need organic material such as fish waste, dead bacteria, fish and plant matter, etc., and while some are aerobic, many are facultative anaerobes, meaning that they can survive in either the presence or absence of free oxygen. Anaerobes are organisms that do not require free oxygen for growth; this has significant consequences in aquaria. Heterotrophs appear sooner and faster. They build many of the biofilms that all bacteria use to adhere to surfaces, and they reproduce much faster, around 15 to 60 minutes, compared to hours for the autotrophs. [As a comparison, Nitrosomonas sp bacteria that use ammonia require at least twelve hours to divide, and the Nitrospira sp that use nitrite up to 32 hours.]
Heterotrophs are facultative anaerobes—unlike autotrophs which need oxygen—so they can switch between aerobic and anaerobic depending upon the environment. This is why they can kill so many nitrifying bacteria in filters when the filter is allowed to get clogged. When heterotrophs bloom in the water they switch to being aerobic and consume vast amounts of oxygen. This is the real danger of a bacteria bloom, as it can starve the fish of oxygen. Increasing aeration may be advisable in very cloudy conditions; let the fish's respiration guide you. I generally increase surface disturbance from the filter when I have slightly bacterial cloudiness.
The sudden increase in heterotrophic bacteria produces ammonia as a by-product, and the sudden surge in ammonia can overtake the nitrifying bacteria that need time to "catch up." Live plants again help here, as they can assimilate and/or take up considerable quantities of ammonia faster. Note that the bacterial bloom causes the rise in ammonia, not the opposite as some may think.
A water change is not recommended to clear a bacterial bloom. When the free-floating heterotrophs are removed, the others will reproduce even faster to compensate, thus worsening the bloom. If left alone, they usually dissipate in a few days. In an established tank, however, the source of the problem should be removed. Clean the gravel, remove decaying matter, don’t overfeed, reduce overstocking, etc. And be aware of the oxygen shortage issue.
I didn't just write all this, I copy/pasted it from some research I did on bacteria a couple of years ago, but it may help in understanding things.
Byron.
There are a lot of organics in tap water (despite the chlorine). When dechlorinator is used on replacement water, it allows the bacteria to consume these organics, and the bacteria we are here talking about can reproduce very fast compared to nitrifying bacteria.
The bacteria responsible for bacterial blooms are heterotrophs. Heterotrophic bacteria cannot synthesize their own food so they need organic material such as fish waste, dead bacteria, fish and plant matter, etc., and while some are aerobic, many are facultative anaerobes, meaning that they can survive in either the presence or absence of free oxygen. Anaerobes are organisms that do not require free oxygen for growth; this has significant consequences in aquaria. Heterotrophs appear sooner and faster. They build many of the biofilms that all bacteria use to adhere to surfaces, and they reproduce much faster, around 15 to 60 minutes, compared to hours for the autotrophs. [As a comparison, Nitrosomonas sp bacteria that use ammonia require at least twelve hours to divide, and the Nitrospira sp that use nitrite up to 32 hours.]
Heterotrophs are facultative anaerobes—unlike autotrophs which need oxygen—so they can switch between aerobic and anaerobic depending upon the environment. This is why they can kill so many nitrifying bacteria in filters when the filter is allowed to get clogged. When heterotrophs bloom in the water they switch to being aerobic and consume vast amounts of oxygen. This is the real danger of a bacteria bloom, as it can starve the fish of oxygen. Increasing aeration may be advisable in very cloudy conditions; let the fish's respiration guide you. I generally increase surface disturbance from the filter when I have slightly bacterial cloudiness.
The sudden increase in heterotrophic bacteria produces ammonia as a by-product, and the sudden surge in ammonia can overtake the nitrifying bacteria that need time to "catch up." Live plants again help here, as they can assimilate and/or take up considerable quantities of ammonia faster. Note that the bacterial bloom causes the rise in ammonia, not the opposite as some may think.
A water change is not recommended to clear a bacterial bloom. When the free-floating heterotrophs are removed, the others will reproduce even faster to compensate, thus worsening the bloom. If left alone, they usually dissipate in a few days. In an established tank, however, the source of the problem should be removed. Clean the gravel, remove decaying matter, don’t overfeed, reduce overstocking, etc. And be aware of the oxygen shortage issue.
I didn't just write all this, I copy/pasted it from some research I did on bacteria a couple of years ago, but it may help in understanding things.
Byron.
Byron you are a guy with great knowledge and you always give a lot input and good clear information on any thread that you have replied to i wish i hadnt gave up fish keeping all them years back as i might of had more knowledge on this complicated hobby Cheers mate
Regards Graham
i wish i hadnt gave up fish keeping all them years back as i might of had more knowledge on this complicated hobby Cheers mateRegards Graham
gh74 said:Byron you are a guy with great knowledge and you always give a lot input and good clear information on any thread that you have replied toi wish i hadnt gave up fish keeping all them years back as i might of had more knowledge on this complicated hobby
Cheers mate
Regards Graham
Your kind words are indeed appreciated.
The last five years in particular (early retirement) I have done quite a bit of research into areas of the hobby that interest me. I just feel that the more one understands the basics of what is going on in the system, the easier it is. And I enjoy sharing this with others.
Byron.
Similar threads
Most reactions
-
288 -
252 -
202 -
180 -
154 -
147 -
143 -
128 -
124 -
102 -
93 -
90 -
85 -
81 -
80