Leaving On A Trip With A Nitrite Bloom... Ugh
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TwoTankAmin
Fish Connoisseur
The water change will have both a positive and a negative effect. The positive is it will get the level of nitrite down prior to departure, While this will lower the nitrite levels, it will also slow the reproduction of the nitrite oxidzing bacs. It is the lack of these that is at the heart of the problem.
This course almost guarantees that over the next few days the nitrite level should build back up. How high is hard to tell. If it were my tank, after the wc, I would add some salt. Dome in a reasonable manner, it should not hurt and it should help. The only question is how much to add, and that would be my best guess. I am unwilling to guess here because it isn't my tank. Too little and it may not help enough, too much and it may cause other issues. Mostly, in the middle range it should help. That is about the best I can suggest.
If you are going to add salt- use the math outlined in my earlier post. Pick a ppm of nitrite you think you need to combat, then multiply it by 10 to get the mg/l of chloride needed and then multiply that weight by 1.5 to account for the 2/3 Chloride content, When adding salt, remove tank water, dissolve the salt in that and add it across the surface. You are trying to spread it out so the concentration a fish might swim through is not an issue. You can add it in several stages too.
This course almost guarantees that over the next few days the nitrite level should build back up. How high is hard to tell. If it were my tank, after the wc, I would add some salt. Dome in a reasonable manner, it should not hurt and it should help. The only question is how much to add, and that would be my best guess. I am unwilling to guess here because it isn't my tank. Too little and it may not help enough, too much and it may cause other issues. Mostly, in the middle range it should help. That is about the best I can suggest.
If you are going to add salt- use the math outlined in my earlier post. Pick a ppm of nitrite you think you need to combat, then multiply it by 10 to get the mg/l of chloride needed and then multiply that weight by 1.5 to account for the 2/3 Chloride content, When adding salt, remove tank water, dissolve the salt in that and add it across the surface. You are trying to spread it out so the concentration a fish might swim through is not an issue. You can add it in several stages too.
I agree... long-term combating the nitrite doing the water change is a bit of an issue. But, in this case, I think that removing the copious amount of nitrite (over 5) in the first place is a key.
From what I've read on the reproduction of the nitrite bacs we want to cultivate (nitrospira), they reproduce fastest when the nitrite levels are at 0.14ppm and seem to stop entirely around 14ppm (or completely overwhelmed by nitrobacter). (Roughly the numbers I am remembering, though the exact numbers may not ) So, the reduction in the nitrite to 0.25ppm won't in any way harm the reproduction of the nitrite bacteria, but instead might actually optimize their growth.
Here's an article on the difference between nitrospira and nitrobacter.
Also, I'd like to offer that the salt would be an ideal solution once back from this holiday, and that in the meantime, aiming for 1ppm nitrite might be a realistic target for the addition of salt.
From what I've read on the reproduction of the nitrite bacs we want to cultivate (nitrospira), they reproduce fastest when the nitrite levels are at 0.14ppm and seem to stop entirely around 14ppm (or completely overwhelmed by nitrobacter). (Roughly the numbers I am remembering, though the exact numbers may not ) So, the reduction in the nitrite to 0.25ppm won't in any way harm the reproduction of the nitrite bacteria, but instead might actually optimize their growth.
Here's an article on the difference between nitrospira and nitrobacter.
Also, I'd like to offer that the salt would be an ideal solution once back from this holiday, and that in the meantime, aiming for 1ppm nitrite might be a realistic target for the addition of salt.
Came home. Ammonia - 0 /. nitrites - 0 /. Nitrates- 20
Only issue i saw was some how that 90% wc made my ph go to 8.5+. I put some pH down and will retest shortly. I used to have 7.2 but lot of WC with all the issues. Least the tank is stable minus the ph.
Only issue i saw was some how that 90% wc made my ph go to 8.5+. I put some pH down and will retest shortly. I used to have 7.2 but lot of WC with all the issues. Least the tank is stable minus the ph.
Glad to hear the ammonia and nitrite are ok...
What's the pH of your tap water?
A high pH is actually less of a problem than a fluctuating pH. Personally, I'm not a fan of those pH treatments, as they are only temporary fixes.
What's in the tank besides the fish? Coral sand, rocks, etc.?
What's the pH of your tap water?
A high pH is actually less of a problem than a fluctuating pH. Personally, I'm not a fan of those pH treatments, as they are only temporary fixes.
What's in the tank besides the fish? Coral sand, rocks, etc.?
Ph my of my tap water is also 8.5+ for example we have major problems here in Austin. I have to own CLR to clean my showers because in 2 weeks it looks like an unkept aqaurium (very hard water).
Just gravel and the plants. I have driftwood i can readd but never thought i would have a pH issue... Also never did 90wc, always 20-50 and the pH always settled down after a week.
I think the fix may help me get back to a controlable state.
On my 10g i was able to use my Brita to refill and had perfect water. I cant really do that now so I will be looking at adding a brita or other filter to a pump that i can use during refills. That will be weeks away, though.
Just gravel and the plants. I have driftwood i can readd but never thought i would have a pH issue... Also never did 90wc, always 20-50 and the pH always settled down after a week.
I think the fix may help me get back to a controlable state.
On my 10g i was able to use my Brita to refill and had perfect water. I cant really do that now so I will be looking at adding a brita or other filter to a pump that i can use during refills. That will be weeks away, though.
What's the pH after letting it sit for 24 hours?
You might want to consider using some RO water, 50/50 with the tap - or you could even go with a 50/50 of distilled water, which will lower your pH.
You might want to consider using some RO water, 50/50 with the tap - or you could even go with a 50/50 of distilled water, which will lower your pH.
True... Letting it gas off any dissolved gas can effect the pH. Sit some water out for 24 hours and test it, and that will give you a more reasonable reading on what your tap water pH really is...
That's a pretty high pH... Perfect for Mbuna (Lake Malawi cichlids). Not sure about puffers though. 
These SAPs are fine up to 8ph. They are like a platy water condition wise. You should look at getting two 
. They look like bumble bees and highly active!
I am debating on what my final fishes will be. Maybe clown pleco and dirft wood to naturally lower pH and control any future algae but with plants may be nill. Or i will just go with 6 blk ruby barbs but not sure yet. Depends on how this pH settles itself. My tank is already 7.8-8.0 now.
. They look like bumble bees and highly active!I am debating on what my final fishes will be. Maybe clown pleco and dirft wood to naturally lower pH and control any future algae but with plants may be nill. Or i will just go with 6 blk ruby barbs but not sure yet. Depends on how this pH settles itself. My tank is already 7.8-8.0 now.
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